Saturday Night Classics: Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Issey (Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud) 1998 – Burning Desire

Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Isssey review

Tristan and Isolde kissing – Artwork by Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Isssey Ermano 

Turn the lights down, and if you can light a fire. No matter if it’s a campfire, a fireplace or just a candle: the more the gloom, the brighter the flame. Now put on Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde, take a deep breath and let its lavish dissonance slide down your ears, to your soul. We’re going to inhale a symphony of love and loathing, desire and dissolution, an alchemic concoction as toxic as the philter leitmotiv flooding the stage while Tristan and Isolde look in their eyes bursting of impossible desire and drink what they think it’s a deadly poison whilst a love potion fills their cups. We’re going to inhale Le Feu d’Issey, in this edition of our CaFleureBon Saturday Night Classics.

Best dali paintings

Tristan and Isolde by Salvador Dalì (1944)

In the 1990s Monsieur Cavallier released a spectacular row of creations- from the iconic 1994 Eau d’Issey to the one-hit wonder Le Feu d’Issey, passing by the Modern Masterpiece Kingdom for Alexander McQueen or the raw sexiness of Yves Saint Laurent M7 and Nu.  Whereas Eau d’Issey immediately became successful most likely based on the ongoing post-HIV laundry-chic ozonic freshness, Le Feu d’Issey  signaled a change  was in the air. After the hedonistic 1980s and the sterilized minimal vacuum of the 1990s, a new spirituality was emerging with empathy towards nature and elements forecasting movements like #fridaysforfuture.

perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud. Credits Thomas Lohr for Louis Vuitton Malletier

While releasing Eau d’Issey, fashion genius Issey Miyake helped by perfume legend Chantal Roos (who later established Dear Rose, now renamed as Roos & Roos) started a big project with Shiseido inspired by the five primordial elements of Japanese philosophy: Earth, Water, Fire, Wind and Æther. Le Feu d’Issey was the second, last and bravest chapter of the story. So daring, so different it was an instant flop, but also groundbreaking enough to become a cherished unicorn by connoisseurs.

Right from the first moment you spray from the mystical glossy-red globe designed by Gwenael Nicolas,  Issey Miyake Le Feu D’Issey smells deadly as a poison and sweet as love with the cold spiciness of aniseed and the aldehydic verdancy of coriander set against a condensed milk thickness as sweet as Isonde and Tristan epic kisses. This addictive contrast is confusing and disturbing that you don’t remember whether you got it from the witch Brangania or from the henna-tattooed hands of Madonna, singing “you’re frozen when your heart is not open”.

Unicorn Perfumes

Madonna as featured in the Frozen video clip (Ray of light, 1998)

As the aromatic topnotes fade, the crescendo of creaminess in Le Feu d’Issey surrounds you like a pearly shield rosy reflection: Lilies bloom here and there, tinged with the piquancy of clove the roasted facets of hot caramel and guaiacwood. That’s the most romantic and feminine moment of this burning juice, where flames dance gently illuminating the graceful features of Isolde, her fiery red Irish curls hidden under the bride’s veil and her dress mixing sacred and pagan like Mr. Cavallier mixes avant-garde gourmand and retro dianthine hues in an unforgettable embrace.

1990s fashion

Karen Elson wearing the bride dress from the Atelier Versace Fall 1997. Credits Alvaro Canovas

The drydown of the perfume is suitable for both men and women, tenacious and soft. Yet languorous sandalwood whispers concupiscent promises that cannot be ignored. To complete the witchcraft and make if so addictive it has to be drunk till the last drop, powdery vanilla was added in to smooth the leathery hues of cedarwood, plus a savory dash of hot firestone smell for a utterly addictive result, so tempting it makes you thirsty in many ways. Who will resist from burning when such a marvelous mistake can light your fire like this?

Le Feu d’Issey 1998 Advertising

Le Feu d’Issey 1998 Advertising by Raymond Meier

Even if Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Issey was too ahead of its time, for a commercial release and quickly discontinued, its pioneering milky amber theme marked a path followed later by Fendi Theorema (Christine Nagel, 1998), Gucci Rush (Michel Almairac, 999) and Serge Lutens Douce Amère (Christopher Sheldrake, 2000) to name a few. In 2000 Issey Miyake introduced Le Feu d’Issey Light, targeting a younger audience, (nor did this less daring flanker become a hit).

Top Notes: Aniseed, Bergamot, Coconut, Coriander, Mahogany;Heart Notes: Jasmine, Caramel, Lily, Milk, Rose;Base Notes: Amber, Gaiac wood, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Cedarwood

This review is based on a personal bottle of Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Issey. My opinions are my own.

Editor’s Note: Does anyone remember Le Feu D’Issey?  I have a mini bottle somewhere. Now this perfume is so rare that  1.7 oz is selling on Ebay for $247

–-Ermano Picco, Editor, Evaluator and Perfume Expert

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11 comments

  • drjedi says:

    Very nice review, history and photos. Didn’t know about this, and saw that the Light version, 1.6 ounces, is on Amazon for about $300, with a 2.5 star review, so I guess, it didn’t care well. The original is also there for $550 (2.5 ounces). I bought L’eau d’ Issey Pour Homme from Japan, as a souvenir, as Issey Miyake sounded Japanese, and he is, though later realized it was made in France. What the heck, we bought it in Japan, so it’s a Japanese souvenir. Like it a lot, though it wasn’t love at first whiff 🙂 I enjoyed reading what you wrote about Le Feu d’ Issey and learning about its history. Thanks !!!

  • drjedi says:

    Oops – typo in the comment above. I meant Light version didn’t “fare” well.

    Very nice review, history and photos. Didn’t know about this, and saw that the Light version, 1.6 ounces, is on Amazon for about $300, with a 2.5 star review, so I guess, it didn’t “f”are well. The original is also there for $550 (2.5 ounces). I bought L’eau d’ Issey Pour Homme from Japan, as a souvenir, as Issey Miyake sounded Japanese, and he is, though later realized it was made in France. What the heck, we bought it in Japan, so it’s a Japanese souvenir. Like it a lot, though it wasn’t love at first whiff I enjoyed reading what you wrote about Le Feu d’ Issey and learning about its history. Thanks !!

  • Amy Caron says:

    This is my first fragrance love!
    Great review, but I would add that there are definitely sharp metallic notes and it is what I would imagine a chemical factory fire might smell like. But the sharp warm dry down is unforgettable and the scent itself will carry you thru a day.
    I still have quite a bit in my red orb. Maybe I’ll give it a try again tomorrow. It will be such a difference from the simple notes and natural scents I’ve been favoring lately.

    I also loved Gucci Rush and hoarded it as it discontinued. I have Nu as well, but it’s always been overpowering on me and it’s hard to find the right event for such an overtly sexual scent (a hint of how Tom Ford will create his scents).

    I also think feu also traces to Caron L’Anarchiste, a synthetic composition of metallic edges over warmth.

    I guess I just like smelling like a chemical factory fire. I’d really appreciate a few more compositions like this. With the current state of things, it seems appropriate to explore these themes again.

  • Amy Caron says:

    I also have feu light.
    I bought it untested, and it’s such a hollow comparison. I feel like they decided to just make a version of feu you could wear to the office. But – you just can’t wear a chemical fire to the office. Not even a teeny tiny one. If you’re going to wear a chemical fire, you need to own it.

  • Natalia306 says:

    Ermano’s article great! I like what he says about Issey Miyake Le Feu d’Issey:
    “witchcraft and make if so addictive it has to be drunk till the last drop, powdery vanilla was added in to smooth the leathery hues of cedarwood, plus a savory dash of hot firestone smell for a utterly addictive result, so tempting it makes you thirsty in many ways. Who will resist from burning when such a marvelous mistake can light your fire like this?” Interesting, to bad
    I don’t have chance to try this perfum.

  • Christos GX says:

    Amazing review,lots of history,many information and details.
    It is amazing how the people sometime work,when something is avaliable you dont care about it,but when it becomes rare suddenly the same thing that was not in your liking and you would not want at all,becomes one of your most wanted items that has to be in your collection.

  • Chayaruchama says:

    Gorgeous review, Ermanissimo!

    I adored it and still do, from first sniff years ago.
    My bottle is safely tucked away among the fragrant unicorns.

  • Silvia says:

    Yes…of course I remembered it…harsh & sweet together, fire & milk inside…was my bride perfume and I love it…I never found another similar perfume….Personally, I wanted back this ying & yang mood.

  • zibbyz says:

    I love this fragrance and have a bottle that I hoard, that will probably dry out before I use it. This is my favorite and was my signature scent until it was d/c. On me it is milky, creamy and spicy. It has a note of a rose note that I never noticed until I read Luca Turin’s review, which is ironic (?) since I don’t care much for rose scents.
    Has anyone tried one of those sites that recreates discontinued perfumes? There is one that has this available, but I think I’m too afraid I’d be disappointed. If you have, I would love to hear.

  • Linda says:

    How nice to remember with you the scents of the past, the FEU D’ISSEY had struck me a lot but also alienated me. Something attracted me and at the same time rejected me. The important thing is always and in any case arouse curiosity, the avant-garde becomes present and therefore understood and appreciated

  • Justine says:

    I love this and have been hoarding it once I realised it’s been discontinued. I was introduced to the light version first in 2002 and decided to hunt down the original.

    I don’t have any of the original with boxes as I’ve only managed to find unused testers online back when they were still available. A few years ago I spotted a very full bottle of tester at a clearance sale and couldn’t believe it was $10, needless to say I felt like the luckiest person in the world that day!

    I’m a big fan of Gucci Rush 2 as well, funnily enough it was recommended to me by the same shop that introduced me to Le Feu light! Might need to give the original Rush a go after reading this article.