J image of his bottle of Rubini Odenaturae
January is a great month for catching up, especially with the end of year lists finding out what you might have missed out on. I’m still going through the ÇaFleureBon Best in Scents and finding some releases I missed. Rubini Odenaturae is one I didn’t miss, it’s on my top ten Best of 2023 perfume list and I’ve been enjoying its since it’s release; it’s a stunning perfume taking you into another green world. Rubini is one of those perfume houses that really excites me, they push the boundaries of perfumery, giving you wearable yet avant-garde perfumes. From the meticulously crafted packaging to the overall experience, every detail is carefully thought out to provide a truly unique journey. Their passion for perfumery is palpable, flowing from both Andrea Rubini and perfumer Cristiano Canali. Together, they take you on a thrilling exploration of traditional fragrance structures, reimagining them with a fresh perspective and incorporating a blend of classic and innovative materials. This is the kind of perfumery that fills me with optimism for the future and my greedy nose always wants to smell what’s next from them.
Andrea Rubini and Cristiano Canali images courtesy of the brand
As well as perfumes I also discovered two albums that passed me by but now have on repeat. ML Buch’s Suntub is this strangely familiar yet super fresh feeling futuristic rock album that might have been made in virtual reality and yet could also have been released on 4AD back in the late 80’s/90’s and Darius Jones’ fLuXkit Vancouver (Its suite but sacred) which is a cinematic feeling jazz album that’s described as ‘a radiant manifesto of artistic freedom… forming a composition in four movements’. Both of these albums have something that resonates for me with Rubini’s Odenaturae, it’s a green adventure with classic notes taken somewhere new into a possible future, giving you this cinematic journey that feels fresh as it moves and flows through its multiple movements and well Rubini is a house that’s full of artistic freedom making beautiful avant garde perfumes, that you can put on and enjoy from start to end. Time to press play and spray.
Album covers from ML Buch’s Suntub lp and Darius Jones’s fLuXkit Vancouver (Its suite but sacred) lp
A sweet kiss leaves the scent of berries on your lips as a darker aromatic sweetness unfurls around you. Broom has a dark rich balsamic sweetness that’s surrounded by an aura of chamomile. It gracefully fills the air with its aromatic intensity, evoking the dry warmth of sweet hay and clary sage, which feels like the comforting embrace of a warm cup of herbal tea. Odenaturae has this joyful feeling of running through sun-kissed fields surrounded by nature’s beauty. Its delightful blend of sweet herbal greens and shimmering aromatics creates a sense of lightness, yet beneath its surface lays a captivating complexity, akin to wearing a gentle summer breeze infused with the essence of nature. Immortelle whispers off in the distance, its mouth-watering burnt sugar and subtle curried spice is a familiar scent to me and is one of my favourite perfume notes. The air comes alive with its alluring scent, swirling like a graceful dancer, casting its spell on everything it touches. Immortelle also feels like Alice’s White Rabbit as it leads you deeper into Odenaturae, evolving from the bushy of berries then deeper into the broom.
Bitter orange adds a refreshing touch, feeling like the sun peeking through light clouds, while more vibrant greens come into view. Tomato leaf creates a weighty atmosphere, enhancing the chamomile’s floral and fig-like essence, giving a spice and further depth. Like it’s lounging in a soft bale of hay, with a jammy green fig and a hint of sweet tobacco aroma lingering in the air. Odenaturae delicious greens burst forth, serving you up some delectable treats. A delightful medley of aromas dances in the air, adding to the soft abstract haze. Notes of rosemary, basil and green olives intermingle, accompanied by a subtly sweet freshness reminiscent of crushed cardamom. Odenaturae feels effortlessly pleasant, yet upon closer inspection, reveals a world of intricate complexity. Chamomile imparts a milky, musky quality, while the intricate greens gracefully fade towards the edges of the composition.
Rubini Odenaturae image courtesy of the brand.
It can’t be nature without something wild, and while chamomile has been giving a herbal sharpness and tomato leaf a spiced depth, its a dirty dream of orange blossom that’s bringing a narcotic twist as Odenaturae dries down. It lurks there purring quietly in the soft blonde woods, spreading the bitter green herbal leaves open for a better view, a sweet drop of honeyed rose drips like natures sweat from its brow, giving just enough of a whisper of wild elegance to counter the fresh greens while making the sweetness glow. There’s a refreshing twist with Odenaturae’s blend of dry herbs and cool menthol-like musks. This unique combination creates a green freshness that invigorates your senses. You experience this smooth movement and ever-shifting flow, just like you’re watching clouds change shape throughout the day. Powdery fluffy musks take the centre stage almost like the other materials have bloomed and decayed, forming this softly floral musky haze, with a fresh slice of lemon and a rich light honey. This linden blossom feels easy and relaxed with a meditative feel like you’re lost in the beauty of a layer summers eve in nature.
Rubini Odenaturae is beautifully abstract composition full of lush greens. As you close your eyes and surrender to the enchanting fragrance, a gentle mist of powdery musk embraces you, transporting you to a serene moment of bliss. Picture yourself lying on your back, surrounded by nature’s symphony of scents, feeling rejuvenated; it’s an utterly beautiful green dream.
Notes: Bitter orange, Tomato leaf, Wild berries, Hyssop, Blue and Roman chamomile, Basil, Immortelle, Laurel, Lentisque, Clary Sage, Savory, Angelica, Rose centifolia abs, Orange flower abs, Broom abs.
Disclaimer: This is my own bottle of Rubini’s Odenaturae, as usual opinions and nose are my own.
Senior Contributor – J Wearescentient, artist and olfactive writer
Rubini Odenaturae image courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Andrea Rubini, we have a 50 ml bottle of Rubini Odenaturae for one registered reader in the EU OR WITH AN ADDRESS IN THE EU ONLY. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what strikes you about Odenaturae based on J’s review and where you live. Draw closes 1/19/2024.
Odenaturae made top ten best perfumes of 2023 for J and for Danu
Note: Rubini Nuvolari made Best Show at Pitti Fragranze. You can read Ermano’s report here
Michelyn awarded Rubini Fundamental one of the Best Fragrances of 2015 here
Please read Lauryn’s review of Rubini Tambour Sacre here and her review of Nuvolari here
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @rubini_profumi @wearescentinet
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy.
Like our Facebook page ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed for new updates and articles. We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.