Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery  © Karl

“Did you hear about the rose that grew?

From a crack in the concrete?

Proving nature’s laws wrong it

Learned how to walk without having feet

Funny it seems, but by keeping its dreams

It learned to breathe fresh air

Long live the rose that grew from concrete

When no one else even cared…” Tupac Shakur, The Rose that grew from concrete

Rose and concrete by Michelyn ©(photo of NYC concrete outside her apartment and stock photo of rose)

If you saw a rose grow from concrete, what would your initial thoughts be? Would you focus on its scratches, marks, and imperfections? Or would you be in awe of its tenacity to bloom amid an arid and urban environment? The will to create amid a landscape, which is full of commercialism and copycats is challenging. Going against common consensus and pursuing one’s dreams is a confronting decision. The easy option is to bow to the status quo. In Manuel Cross, we understand an artist who is unafraid to go where others may fear to tread. Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery is a splintering of typical associations with ‘rose.’  His rose is delineated and seen as singular motifs from a range of angles.

Manuel Cross Image courtesy of the Perfumer

Rostracto was created to be a cubist rose scent. The play on words, Rose and Abstract, contracted to read ‘Rostracto’ insinuates a rose in abstraction. Possibly the ‘o’ has been added as a respectful reference to one of the founders of the cubist movement Pablo Picasso. As radical and influential as cubism was as it first hit the art world, Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery also ushers in a new reality to our olfactory senses in the use of rose in perfumery. Manuel Cross has broken new boundaries here. There is a rebelliousness to this scent and a contradictive quality to it. As a composition it brings an edgy and enthusiastic nuance, whilst highlighting a natural beauty and depth. The rose feels deconstructed and there are many diverse elements on show. It is as if the different facets of rose have been scattered and one is able only to identify one single aspect at a time when zoning in on the fragrance.

Tupac & Picasso Cubist Image created by Karl©

Rose Absolute is the rich signature of Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery which underpins the scent. Contra to mainstream rose-centric fragrances it unfolds itself in a range of ways. There are a wealth of contours and areas of light and shade which emerge; this evokes a sense of three-dimensionality about Rostracto. The scent darts between velvety and acerbic tones; imagine the contrast of caressing a rose’s velvety petal then being caught by the spitefulness of its thorn. Whereas one can recognise certain aspects of the fragrance they also seem to dissolve and interweave into an undefinable spatial experience: simultaneously, noticing the breadth of the landscape. This is the heart and soul of the scent; it is a mysterious masterpiece.

The use of high-quality natural ingredients in Rostracto enables one to capture glimpses of perfection amid a canvas of rawness. As in the above poem, there is beauty and individuality and an immeasurable quality about this perfume one witnesses rarely. This rugged exterior of Rostracto comes from Fir Balsam. It brings slightly bitter component that blends well with the rose off-setting the intensity of the floral aspects whilst creating a camphor like piney-ness to proceedings. The use of charred cedar gives a vibration to the fragrance and crosses the scent from top to base. This structure combined with musk opens a dusty and spacious effect, a contradiction of arid terrain versus fleshy rose is most surprising. It adds a dry tonality which places you within a dystopian and futuristic world akin to Mad Max or Frank Herbert’s Dune.

 

Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery by Karl©

To enhance this spacious effect, Elemi makes a balsamic nuance tethering these opposing ingredients to give a harmony to the fragrance. It blends beautifully with the artemisia for a translucent and fresh energy and a sharp and bitter aspect to Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery, which again settles the richness of the rose enhancing the acidity and rawness.

These fractured elements of Rostracto strangely work in unison with a base of benzoin enveloping one with an amber sweetness to body out the scent, which keeps its openness whilst combining the disparate components. Challenging the wearer’s perception of what they smell is a huge achievement. Rose Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery is anything but linear, it is a modern-day work of art taking us into a new realm of olfactory experience. Manuel Cross continues to create intrigue and originality showing a unique perspective.

Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery Official Image created by Josh Peterson©

Notes: Rose Absolute, Fir Balsam Absolute, Artemisia, Elemi, Charred Cedar, Benzoin,  Musk.

Disclaimer: Bottle of Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery kindly provided by Rogue Perfumery. My opinions are my own.

Karl Topham, Editor

Please read: Profiles in American Perfumery, Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery by Michelyn Camen

Please watch Steven’s video with Manuel Cross on his creative process here

Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur Review by Ida Meister for Cafleurebon.

Rogue Perfumery Derviche II by Karl Tohham Review for Cafleurebon

Thanks to Rogue Perfumery and Manuel Cross, we have a draw for a 50 ml bottle of Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery for one registered reader in the EU, UK & USA. To be eligible please leave a comment about what strikes you about Rostracto by Rogue Perfumery and where you live. What “raw material would you like to see in Manuel’s next perfume?  Draw closes 5/14/22.

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