Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur flacon courtesy of Manuel Cross© with digital effects by Michelyn©
Verdi prati, selve amene,
perderete la beltà.
Vaghi fior, correnti rivi,
la vaghezza, la bellezza,
presto in voi si cangerà. ~ G.F.Handel’s opera Alcina
“Verdant meadows, pleasant forests, you will lose your beauty. Dreamy blossoms, flowing streams, your charm, your beauty will soon fade (my translation).”
We are ever haunted by the transient natural beauty which surrounds us, although we may take it as our rightful due. In perfumery, as in life – we do well to stop in our tracks to savor and acknowledge such gifts. Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur is one such olfactory illustration.
Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery courtesy of Rogue Perfumery©
So many talented perfumers are drawn to their calling via myriad means: some began as dancers, painters, musicians, art historians, designers – even farmers! Artisanal perfumer Manuel Cross of Rogue Perfumery commenced as a chef by trade – his chosen path since 1993 (this particular association is well known to me; I too find the link between gustation and olfaction to be intimate and compelling). His choice of moniker is brilliant: Rogue Perfumery is evocative, naughty and truthful – in that Mr. Cross wearied of the IFRA and EU restrictions which contributed to the attenuation/distortion of venerated classical perfumery. His personal response was to push back, utilizing the highest quality materials he could obtain while composing nouveau-vintage style fragrances which span every genre. I initially encountered the perfumer’s work on Etsy in 2017 (Chypre Siam and Tabac Vert) and purchased several fragrances as a direct result of sampling. When asked what I might like to try, his new Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur appealed based upon its description, and Mr. Cross promptly sent me an inclusive rollerball sample set. I was grateful and extremely pleased.
The Duck Pond at Champigny Chaim Soutine 1943 via Sotheby’s
Vetifleur is a scintillating old-school verdant floral of the finest stripe – a first-rate example of the whole equaling more than the sum of its parts. It opens unerringly with a luscious burst of bergamot, segued by the classic fragrant triumvirate of indolic jasmine, rose and silvered iris. I’ve come to suspect that many of us have become somewhat jaded – we see this magnificent trio appear and simply take it for granted, forgetting how crucial it is to the success of memorable fragrances such as Chanel No.19, First by Van Cleef and Arpels, 1000 de Patou, Joy de Patou and many others. Vetifleur’s luxe mossy base rich in sandalwood, oakmoss and vetiver harkens back, as homage – to numerous majestic chypres of yore (they are components present in all those I’ve just mentioned); this melange never fails. As for amber tones, reflect back upon 1000 and First: where would they be without them? Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur shares a DNA profile with these iconic perfumes, but one which further accentuates the lovely sweet, racine booziness inherent in Javanese vetiver, which imparts its pronounced voluptuous mystery, swirled with a whisper of smoke. In such a setting iris and vetiver dazzle – reminiscent of the tango they perform in Chanel No.19.
Woman in Green by Chaim Soutine 1919
In spite of the entwining silken threads commonly shared with other grand fragrances, Vetifleur emerges its own creature: sparklingly elegant, timeless and ravishing to wear. Manuel Cross has his eye on the present and future while retaining the caliber of a classic tradition. I can’t recall such quality offered at a more reasonable price point for some time now. Another plus: although classified as eau de toilette, Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur possesses excellent longevity and sillage (as so many of his fragrances do). I would encourage you (if you haven’t already), dear readers, to sample this and other perfumes composed by Mr. Cross; you are certain to find at least one which will please.
Notes: bergamot, Java vetiver, rose, jasmine, iris, oakmoss, amber, sandalwood Draw closes 8/23/2021
Samples kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur courtesy of Manuel Cross©
Thanks to the generosity of Rogue Perfumery, we have a 30 ml bottle of Vetifleur for one registered reader in the U.S. or the EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Rogue Perfumery Vetifleur based on Ida’s review and where you live. Do you have a favorite Rogue perfume? Draw closes 8/12/21
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