Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau
On October 15, 2020, between two lockdowns, art and perfume were finally back in Paris. In the heart of the Marais district and a stone’s throw from the Picasso Museum, famous photographer Roberto Greco was debuting his latest exhibition entitled, Porter Sa Peau (Wearing One’s Skin). Three years after Œillères, we discover a new series of his magnificent photos, linked to a perfume, (which he always refers to as an “objet parfumant”, a perfuming object).
Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Master Perfumer and Vice President of Perfumery for Givaudan
Roberto Greco chose to collaborate with master perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Givaudan), whom he particularly appreciates for his great understanding of fragrance history and culture, as well as Rodrigo’s ability to reinvent the classics in his own signature style: “For Porter Sa Peau, I wanted to obtain a patina with retro accents, but with a slightly more modern twist to avoid categorizing the accord and confining it in an era or style”.
Roberto Greco self portrait
They worked together for almost two years. Like Œillères, the creative inspiration began with the series of photos by Roberto Greco that ended as an olfactory accompaniment: “I try to put my artistic point of view into perspective, whether it is symbolic, dialectical or sometimes simply sensorial“.
Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau exhibition 1
Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau is first a series of photographs, all with a misty and grainy graphic treatment, where the omnipresence of pastel colorimetry contrasts with the very carnal aspect of the purposely overexposed photos.
Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau exhibition 2
Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peu follows Œillères, but this time seen through the prism of distorting mirrors, within 4 scenes/themes that respond to personal memories using specific 17th century art symbolism, or inventing his own imagery. “Dogs and Italians, keep out!”, “Howling at the Moon”, “Mother Tongue” and “Reflecting my Narcissus” tell a story concentrated in that perfume extract signed by the Greco/ Flores-Roux duo. Photographs first, then the perfume: that was a real purpose while exploring the exhibition. All visitors discovered “l’objet parfumant” at the very end of the tour, almost hidden behind an alcove.
Reflecting my Narcissus
The narcissus flower is at the center of Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau, not only for its scent, but because it evokes the reflection of oneself (and one’s thoughts) in the mirror. In perfumery, narcissus has complex aspects, both green and carnal. Using this duality, Rodrigo Flores-Roux has translated Roberto Greco’s photos foggy lighting using aldehydes; they illuminate the narcissus with their warm, almost soapy notes, and offset the iris powdery and “vintage” accents. Hawthorn is also present, supporting the nostalgic florals of Porter Sa Peau. And as the fragrance evolves it becomes even more sensual; one can easily perceive the notes of leather, musk and ambergris that bring raw animalics to the opening.
“Dogs And Italians Keep Out”
Porter Sa Peau is an “objet parfumant” that entices and seduces more and more every day. At first, it is reminiscent of vintage chypre perfumes, a time when skin perfume was for oneself, when the sillage was not the first concern. On my skin, I found Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau to be elegant, and then the surprise of a celluloid facet reminding me of my childhood dolls. As time went on, it was more animalic, thanks to the leather and ylang-ylang notes, keeping throughout the day that luminous aspect that makes this fragrance so sensual. The unfolding was slow, like a time lapse photography intensifying and highlighting its creamy, almost moist flesh side as time went on.
It is the perfume we spray a few minutes before going to bed, that accompanies us gently into the depths of our dreams and that, above all, is still on our skin when we wake up. Warm and soft. And which, even after a long hot shower, is still perceptible on our skin. The one we wear.
Will there be a third opus following Œillères and Porter Sa Peau? “Certainly,” says Roberto Greco. “But I have to admit that it will take me about 3 years to create a new photographic series and the perfuming object that accompanies it. Perhaps in 2023!”
Roberto Greco Porter Sa Peau is a limited edition of 500 pieces, numbered and signed.
Notes: angelica, hawthorn, aldehydes, sage, iris, jasmine, narcissus, rose, ylang-ylang, ambergris, oakmoss, musk, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, leather, balms.
All artwork by Roberto Greco, unless otherwise stated.
Emmanuelle Varron, Contributor
Porter Sa Peau sample photo by Emmanuelle
Thanks to the generosity of Roberto Greco, we are offering 3 samples of Porter Sa Peau to three registered readers in Europe, the U.K and the U.S. You must register here for your comment to count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what interested you about Emmanuelle’s review of Porter Sa Peau and where you live. Draw closes 12/23/2020.
Note: Samples will be sent to the winners in the first days of January.
Available at Jovoy Paris and Luckyscent
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