Puente Perfumes EADEN is a limited edition single batch
Come slowly – Eden!
Lips unused to Thee –
Bashful – sip thy Jessamines –
As the fainting Bee –
Reaching late his flower,
Round her chamber hums –
Counts his nectars –
Enters, and is lost in Balms. ~ Emily Dickinson, 211 from Poems by Number
Eliam Puente of Puente Perfumes via brand
Artisan perfumer Eliam Puente of Puente Perfumes creates opulent fragrances for the voluptuary (aromatic timidity is NOT among his brand’s characteristics). I’ve had the privilege of reviewing each of his perfumes – Medusa (one of my top 10 scents of 2022), Vespertine, and Iris Doux. When I heard that he had composed a neroli perfume I was immediately intrigued; I knew better than to anticipate eau de cologne remix (I’m quite fond of eau de cologne, by the way – lest there be any confusion).
Odalisque Pierre-Auguste Renoir 1870 via common use and digitalized
My patience was rewarded with indisputably indolic loveliness of epic proportions. Puente Perfumes EADEN is larger-than-life; it encourages us to re-evaluate our thinking with regard to the orange blossom. If you are seeking a blushing bride ingenue, soapy scented perfume – you will most certainly not find it here, for EADEN is a heavy-lidded odalisque reclining upon silken cushions with sybaritic languor: she emanates seduction through every pore.
Anne-Marie de la Trémoille (1642–1722) via wikiart detail
Eliam generously provides background, referring to the “17th C. Princess Anne Maria de la Tremoille of Nerola, Italy, who was famous for her nickname “Princess of La Nerola” (hence the name Neroli) favored the scent of orange blossoms and was the first person who used the precious distilled essence to perfume everything; including her gloves, bathwater, clothes, and palace. Her high influence made neroli a fashionable perfume in the world.” Indeed, a hefty 15% + of EADEN is composed of pure neroli, and it is a perfect foil for highest quality jasmine sambac (I believe that the perfumer uses an absolute from China which many perfumers agree is incomparable).
orange blossom via the brand
Tenderly introduced by a zesty complementary mandarin, the intuitive coupling of neroli and sambac is potent and intoxicating; it makes your senses reel. I smell a dynamic, heady floral indolicism accented with terpenes (present in both sambac and neroli) and a slight, elegant tinge of bitterness: doux-amer. The employment of orris root here imparts a buttery texture with a hint of powder and woody undertones which are subtle yet tenacious. Vetiver’s balsamic rooty complexity contributes an earthy verdancy with only a wisp of inferred smoke; its richness helps anchor the intense floralcy which embodies Puente Perfumes EADEN’s appeal.
It is often said that fortune favors the bold – and EADEN is nothing if not bold, a far cry from the customary treatment of neroli as sparkling fraîcheur, honeyed-or-vanilla-ed soliflore, or one of the chosen fragrances found in European baby toiletries (along with linden). EADEN sings of the seraglio, not the nursery: one cannot escape notice in the wake of its sillage. It possesses an almost feral aspect which hearkens back to The Garden and all its delights. Perhaps it was neroli that cajoled Adam and Eve – and not the apple (or pomegranate), as legend proclaims. Notes: mandarin, neroli, jasmine sambac, orris root, vetiver
Sample provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Puente Perfumes EADEN via the brand
Thanks to the largesse of perfumer Eliam Puente we have a 12.5 ml flacon of Puente Perfumes EADEN for one registered reader in the EU, USA, UK or Canada. You must register of your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment regarding what appealed to you in Ida’s review of Puente Perfumes EADEN and where you live. Giveaway closes 5/30/2023
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