Pitti Fragranze 2018: Filippo Sorcinelli, Antonio Alessandria, and Margaret Mangan of Cloon Keen + Friends and Fumes Draw

Every Pitti has its own distinctive personality, this Florentine adventure, no exception. A tangible excitement at its opening, numerous meetings and connections, friendships renewed and forged anew, possibilities of new discoveries scenting the air. It is always a privilege to attend.  Certain trends emerged early, the general atmosphere more tranquil and less frenetic.  I discussed this sea-change with several of the participants, there was a sense that ‘Niche Perfumery Olfactory Art’, is coming full circle, that the mass hysteria and accompanying crush has subsided a little and now the true Devotees and Artisans mingle and converse. It feels as if ‘Niche’ is coming back to its roots of purely crafted and artisanal.

Basilica San Miniato di Monte, Firenze.by Danu

Tendencies towards smaller, little known lines that have been quietly beavering away, doing what they do with passion and verve, each in their own small corner of the World, stepped into the Pitti Fragranze 2018 arena. This made for some wonderful new discoveries and friendships to be continued. 

Filippo Sorcinelli (L), Yuri Kolesnikow (Pitti Fragranze 2018) Danu

Filippo Sorcinelli of Unum and Sauf  always commands my attention. Releases of not one, but three new additions to the vaults of a truly rare High Art. The first two, Violon Basse and Unda Maris, distinctly different, crafted into the ‘Extrait de Musique’ Collection.

 

Violon Basse and Unda Maris Filippo Sorcinell by Danu

Launched at an event, ‘Synesthesia of the Soul’, within the walls of Basilica San Miniato al Monte, Firenze. Crescendos of organ and choir, reverberating on ancient stones, the fragrances conjured into the symphony. We were encapsulated within the Basilica, high above the lights of Firenze, gifted the Organ playing of Filippo along with choral risings, the moments of crescendo elevated by the scents distributed amongst us, similar to the Rites of Eucharist.  Quite simply exquisite, catching the soul-trembling emotions.

 but_not_today Filippo Sorcinelli Danu Seith-Fyr Pitti Fragranze 2018

The final release needed no introduction, so eagerly awaited at Pitti Fragranze 2018 …‘but_not_today’, inspired by the line from the film Hannibal; “You use Evian skin cream, and sometimes you wear L'Air du Temps … but not today”. The relation of two polar entities in the characters Hannibal Lecter and Clarice Starling, yet they are  connected in primally and intimately. but_not_today is a raw, addictive and subtle disturbance of a fragrance, 42 notes of Blood, 18 of White Lily, heightened by its launch at Palazzo Capponi, amidst sublime music and surrounds befitting its stature. The gathering of kindred spirits, those who see beauty wherever it emerges, the music in the courtyard amidst champagne, on higher floors, a Library of note with manuscripts from 1150AD placed upon my trembling fingers. Filippo Sorcinelli on piano above accompanied by Soprano Giovanna Donini.

Fara, Antonio Alessandria Parfums, Pitti Fragranze 2018 Danu Seith-Fyr

Another worthy mention is for Antonio Alessandria Parfums and his new ‘Fara’, already beautifully reviewed on Cafleurebon, pre-release. I had yearned, quite ardently after this fragrance, since smelling its earlier incarnation at Esxence in Milan. Its warm play of refreshment on heated, sultry lips and the blessed satiation of thirst being quenched is a pure, unadulterated, sensuous delight.  In its threaded carnal undercurrent lies a ‘cat on a hot tin roof” languidness that transports me to the lover’s bed, all crisp crumpled linen, windows wide to the heated winds, this definitive Sicilian imbibement atop a bedside cabinet, beguilement to be woven into proceedings at Will. This is most definitely where a sample will not suffice, a bottle is a must.

Cloon Keen Founder and Director Maggie Mangan and Danu Seith- Fyr 

As a third sip from the glass of Pitti, I was delighted to discover Cloon Keen Atelier, an Irish Perfumer based in Galway. Meeting with the founder, Maggie (Margaret) Mangan and being introduced to the collection was the meeting of long-lost friends in all respects.  We could have talked for hours and here at Pitti was presented the legacy of twenty years of artisanal production. Stylistically aesthetic to the eye, the fluidity continues within the fragrances. As lyrical as the soft Irish accent of Maggie herself, these fragrances entwined me within an ancient landscape and history yet were modern and inviting.  All of the Collection piqued my interest, so I am eager to explore them more.

Pitti Fragranze 16, 2018

Samples received at Pitti Fragranze 2018 from Filippo Sorcinelli, Antonio Alessandria and Cloon Keen, with gratitude.

Nose and opinions, my own.

-Danu Seith-Fyr,  Contributor (and contributions by Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief)

Thanks the Danu we have samples from Pitti Fragranze 2018 to one registered reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Antonio Alessandria Fara, Filippo Sorcinelli but_not_today, Violon Basse and Unda Maris, and Cloon Keen Atelier based on what she wrote in her first impressions article and  where you live. Draw closes 9/26/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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19 comments

  • The way Danu described the Filippo Sorcenelli event in the basilica gave me goosebumps. I am a fan of Unum and would love to try this new line inspired by organ music of which I’m also a fan. I live in the US.

  • Wonderful review. These events could be amazing. I would very like to try all of the mentioned ones. Thank you for the chance! I live in Europe.

  • Great article and a lot of interesting fragrances to try. Really nice to discover there are also irish ateliers and perfumers. I would love to sample all of them, thanks for the chance. I am in the EU.

  • So much to absorb from this review. I’ve always liked the juxtaposition of music and fragrance with Unum. Would love to try the latest. I’m really happy to learn that there are more Irish perfumers and would be most interested in trying their scents. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US

  • I am with cressit in this one:”We were encapsulated within the Basilica, high above the lights of Firenze, gifted the Organ playing of Filippo along with choral risings, the moments of crescendo elevated by the scents distributed amongst us…” wish I was there:( I am from the EU (Finland).

  • Quite simply exquisite, catching the soul-trembling emotions. I must say the whole write up was interesting and intriguing.
    I live in California

  • Danu had me at “Its warm play of refreshment on heated, sultry lips and the blessed satiation of thirst being quenched is a pure, unadulterated, sensuous delight”. I have never tried anything from Antonio Alessandria and I would love to try Fara. I live in Sweden.

  • My dream is to one day attend this event. As someone with Irish ancestors, I am intrigued by Cloon Keen Atelier. I would love to see how the landscape of Ireland influences and inspires her fragrances.
    I live in the USA.

  • Great article! I do own several Unum fragrances and a Sauf fragrance. Nice to see additions to the Sauf brand. And I love the bottles, inspired by the stops of the Great Organ in Notre Dame. “But not Today” sounds enticing: blood & white lily? Whoah! I’ll soon be ordering samples of the Cloon Kleen Atelier brand: there’s one with a chestnut note! I wish I was there, listening to that music in the background. USA

  • First time hearing of these brands. They sound good
    Would like to attend an event like this one day.
    Fara sounds interesting. U.S

  • I do own Unum Lavs but nothing from Sauf. Wish I did. Cloon Keen and her fragrances sounds amazing too. Extrait de Musique’ Collection fragrances sound great too! I would love to win. I live in the US.

  • Monica Beaton says:

    Niche and independent perfumers are making themselves known in the Fragrance world – taking risks, creating something new and wonderful away from the mainstream market. This is so exciting and comes through in Danu’s observations. Many thanks for keeping us informed and for such a generous giveaway! I love in Australia

  • A perfume based on The Silence of the Lambs dynamics between the two main characters is certainly an interesting concept. I was very intrigued by the perfumer from Galway. I have never been to Ireland and am very intrigued by it. I would imagine the perfumes to be based on nature; its such a green place. USA. Thanks for the review

  • I love how this even was described. And that was eerie yet intriguing about the Silence of the Lambs fragrance collaboration.
    I live in the US.

  • I have not heard of some of those houses before, let alone try them. I know I have read about Unum before, here on the blog, but have not had the chance to experience it. I would love to discover them through the samples as I like the idea of niche going back to its’ roots, to what niche really means.

    I am from EU. Thank you!

  • Any Pitti Fragranze is a feast for perfume connoisseurs, this year’s is no exception. I admire Danu’s writing, this review being no exception, and the bit I’ve loved the most is the poetic description of Fara. Sounds like my kind of fragrance!

    Thank you for the generous draw, I’m from Russia

  • I have been to Ireland multiple times, lived there for a couple of years. However have never visited Galway. Will make sure to do so, next time.
    I’m very intrigued by Cloon Keen Atelier and would love to explore their creations more.
    I really like the direction some niche house are heading.
    Thank you Danu for keeping us informed
    I’m in the EU.

  • Fara, I remember the review a couple of weeks ago. Sounded like a spicy and earthy scent which I’d like during the cooler weather.
    but_not_today sounds avant-garde. Not like something id wear out, but something id wear at home for an experience.
    Violon Basse and Unda Maris, the religious connotations make it sound like it’s maybe an incense scent? I’d like that.
    Cloon Keen Atelier, I’m curious what Irish landscapes mean for perfumery.

    Im in the US, thanks for the draw

  • I’m intrigued by several of these houses as I’d read the recent review of Fara and just in the last month saw that Luca Turin gave Cloon Keen Atelier’s Castana a full five-stars in the updated Perfume Guide. The other houses in Danu’s review I’m not familiar but would love to try some samples. I’m in the U.S. Thanks!