2020 classically distilled Hindi oud with zooey profile – wood is soaked and fermented, vintage barnyard Hindi circa 2012 3) RealOud 2021 10ml sprayer Durbar vintage Mysore sandalwood, ten year old from Ayurvedic medical supplier 5) red vial is highest grade Persian Saffron house tinctured 1 year, very potent vial underneath is 2 year house tincture of Africa stone that David Falsberg generally prep his Perfumers alcohol with for 2 months. © David Falsberg for RealOud 2021
I can still remember reading the Profiles in American Pefumery post about David Falsberg, owner and creator of Phoenicia Perfumes and Cafleurebon contributor, because I was astounded that someone who had barely survived a terrible debilitating disease would come back to create a perfume based on the memory of it. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to smell the highly acclaimed Skin Graft and what is even more disappointing is that I did not keep up with Mr. Falsberg’s work in the years since. When Michelyn asked if I would be interested in sampling the most recent release from Phoenicia my memory went straight back to Skin Graft and I knew I could not miss another opportunity to see what Mr. Falsberg has been up to. With such graciousness, he provided me not only with samples of RealOud 2021 but also a few other of his current scents in order to get a better idea of his overall breadth work.
David Falsberg of Phoenicia Perfumes
I was surprised to find that David has been releasing batches of RealOud since 2014. Each batch is unique but the premise remains the same; source the most authentic ouds direct from the distillers in India who still follow the old school process of soaking the wood and distilling it into clay-wrapped copper pots. This is the real deal, no shortcuts to save time, money or to reduce the potency of the scent profile. These are the ouds of your dreams if you are an oud aficionado.
While David notes that this batch is a bit “softer than previous versions” my nose clearly smells one of the best animalic ouds in the most classic sense of the material. This is not a generic, Westernized oud found in commercial brands but, a traditional oud which made my Arabic husband swoon when he smelled it. t took me straight back to my years in the UAE where I would smell this scent wafting from the local men and women as they would pass as well as from the incense burned in homes and stores all over the region.
Photo: Arabian Oud Incense from unsplash
Oud is such an integral part of Middle Eastern culture dating back to the times of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) who referred to oud as an item found in Paradise. It is not only used in perfumes and attars (oils) but, burned as incense to scent rooms and clothing – a unique version of layering scents. It is only relatively recently that Western perfumery has come to appreciate oud and appropriate it into their creations. Along with the rise in popularity of this rare and expensive ingredient came the inevitable dilution of quality as well as the movement towards more “palatable” versions emphasizing the sweeter, fruiter more floral oud profiles typically found in ouds coming out of Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia.
Even the traditional Assam distillers are having a difficult time resisting the call to move towards cheaper and faster distillation processes in order to keep up with the ever-growing demand, which is why David has indicated that this is most likely the last batch of RealOud he will be releasing. It is getting too difficult to source the true animalic ouds that David considers to be high enough quality to qualify as “real oud”.
NYSE Attar (aka New York Scent Exchange) photo by David
I appreciate that RealOud comes in an atomizer because I enjoy the added sillage created from the aerosolization of the fragrance, even if it is more traditional to apply oud in an oil form. The spray format also allows for the choice of applying either to clothing or skin (or both). No matter the application, you are getting a big blast of barnyard oud right from the top. I couldn’t help but compare it to Ajmal’s Dahn Oudh Al Shams – a notoriously stinky commercially available oud scent – but I could certainly tell that RealOud has more nuance as it develops. David talks about loading RealOud with spices florals and resins, and while these are not the dominant notes (it will always be the oud) I could tell they were all in there working to temper the blue cheese / zoo notes emanating from the Hindi oud. Don’t let the first blast scare you away, traditional oud fragrances need time to settle and develop. What started as a wild beast of a scent transformed into a dozing tiger – lasting easily over 14 hours but wearing close to the skin after the initial hour. I enjoyed the green smokiness of the vetiver that came through after a couple of hours, mixing with the animalic oud and musks. Overall, the composition is extremely balanced and well blended.
Also, to note, David is participating in a new exhibit at the Olfactory Art Keller gallery in NYC where he is presenting an original creation: NYSE Attar (aka New York Scent Exchange) along with a number of other independent perfumers. The exhibit is currently running until January 22, 2022. Details can be found on the gallery’s website. David also has hinted that there will soon be a re-release of Skin Graft and I will certainly make sure not to miss it this time around!
Disclosure: Reviews based on samples graciously sent to me by Phoenicia Perfumes.
Rachel Watson, Contributor
Notes: Blend of Hindi Oud Oils (vintage and recent), Saffron, Cinnamon, Sichuan Pepper, Vetiver, Patchouli Tuberose, Ylang-Ylang, Geranium, Vintage Mysore and Hawaiian Sandalwoods, Opoponox, Siberian and Tibetan Deer Musks, Hyraceum
Thanks to David’s generosity, we have a 10ml sprayer of Realoud 2021 ($110 value) for one registered reader in the USA. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what sparks your interest in Phoenicia Perfumes RealOud 2021 and if you are an oud fragrance lover. Draw closes 12/25/2021
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