Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018: Maison Rabatchi, Nishane, Mizensir, Santi Burgas, Olivier Durbano + Citrus, Florals and New Elegance Draw

Fragranze 16 entrance and Spatialist layout

A quiet morning, here and there people seated under the kiosks in the Leopolda Station court and such a heat and humid air that you can slice it, despite being mid-September. That’s the scene that welcomed me arriving at Fragranze 16 last week. Speaking about slicing, the cover image inspired by Lucio Fontana’s Manifesto Bianco (White Manifesto) stands out from the street, remembering me the Spacial theme the graphic designer Diego Soprana and the architect Alessandro Moradei portrayed also in the show layout: the shape and space boundaries of a fragrance, but also a call to go beyond what’s traditionally known as “niche perfumery” in a heavy rotating market. For the first time after 9 years attending Pitti Fragranze, this sense of uncertainty was palpable together with the flavor we’ve passed the break-even point of growth. On one hand, this reflects less new brands and less new launches which brings more substantive and thoughtful fragrances. Let’s discover the most interesting Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 16 and some special highlights.

Nishane Colognisé Ermano with Mert Guzel  and Murat Katran

One of the most noticeable Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018 trend boldly introduced in Milan last spring by the Perris Monte Carlo White Collection (focusing on cedrat and bergamot from Calabria and Sicilian mandarin) steadily grows with new Mediterranean releases. First of three new Extrait de Cologne, Nishane takes inspiration from the alcohol and citrus blend typically offered to guests as a chilling splash in Turkish hospitality for Colognisé. The classical Acqua Admirabilis citrus-neroli theme is updated here by a soothing green tea and muguet infusion. Spanish designer Santi Burgas developed together with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux the Primal Waters collection which cheerful cologne N (like New York, Rodrigo’s hometown) shine thanks to neroli petals brightened by Givaudan captives like the leafy zest of Vert de bergamote (exhibited last June during WPC 2018 in Nice). The most awaited citrus though was Fàra by Antonio Alessandria. Fine-tuned for the best since the last spring preview, Fàra takes inspiration from the drinks people buy in kiosks downtown in Catania to chill in the heat. A soda, salt, mint leaves and freshly squeezed citrus mix is drunk so fast it gets spilled on the heated skin. The image is perfectly rendered by this edgy and sensual juice thanks also to a pinch of cumin and incense.

Antonio Alessandria Fàra

Florals are still growing strong and fashionable blooms pair with fruity and green nuances. Two of the most charming introductions come from Maison Rebatchi, a new French brand founded by Mohamed Rebatchi and portraying his love for classic perfumery together with the influence of his Maghreb origins. Housed in a refined “plumage” glass flacon designed by Pierre Dinand, Rose Rebatchi blends a charming, honeyed rose with a souk of warm spices ruled by saffron reconnecting so also with the mixed culture background of the Franco-Syrian perfumer Randa Hammami. Osmanthus lovers will rejoice smelling the captivating Joyeux Osmanthe by Maurice Roucel which finds an unique, unctuous and shimmering balance between pulpy osmanthus flower and heady tuberose.

Maison Rebatchi booth

If you enjoyed the nonchalant elegance of Cap Neroli, last spring release from Mme Patricia de Nicolai, will also love the new Neroli Intense which brings a more floral, sweeter and warmer interpretation of orange blossom yet keeping the savory coastal landscape of the original.  White dresses Pierre Dinand’s polarizing Map of the Heart flacon as well as white gardenia makes White Heart v. 7 the most elegant creation in the line. Sprinkled with radiant lavender, cardamom and aldehydes, the green floral melts on skin with an intriguing umeboshi plummy base.

Mizensir Epine de rose

Timeless Elegance and Master Perfumers with their own collections as one of the best Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018. Michel Almairac with his Parle Moi de Parfum, I enjoyed Chypre Mojo, a modern rendition of a fruity chypre focusing on patchouli that somehow remembered me Voleur de Roses with a sultry basket of ripe ananas, mango and guava instead of plums to the point I endearingly renamed it "Voleur d’ananas". Alberto Morillas launches with Mizensir Epine de rose that not only is one of the edgiest fragrances in the line, but this rose beautifully trapped in a shining armor of overdosed rose oxide totally brought me to the metallurgic ‘70s glam with its trail.

Andy Tauer’s Les Années 25Andy Tauer’s Les Années 25 is a tribute to the Parisian Exposition internationale des Arts décoratifs et industriels modernes held in 1925 which exhibited many masterpieces of perfumery from Parfums de Rosine, Houbigant and Guerlain among others, Les Années 25 shows Andy Tauer really knows how to bring that magic rendering an era rather than imitating a specific scent. That’s a magic he already brought us with that Miriam 1950’s flair and now we get lost at Midnight in Paris with aldehydes, iris, vanilla and balmy woods while smelling his new creation.

Ermano with Olivier Durbano and the new Pyrit Ana Tra (a special photo for Michelyn Camen)

One of our favorite highlights (and people) from Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018 is Pyrit Ana Tra from Olivier Durbano. While reconnecting with his iconic Tourmaline Noire thanks to smoked and animalic facets,  his 14th perfume, Pyrit Ana Tra brings us through a purifying path lifting the spirit from darkness to an intensely warm embrace of balmy and floral leather, skipping this time the signature incense in favor of echoes of the legendary Russian leathers of yore.

Don’t miss part two to discover more about neo- gourmands as another of the important Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018, how the next generation of perfumery is taking inspiration from sustainability and social responsibility and more.

Ermano Picco, Editor

All photos belong to Ermano for CaFleureBon

Thanks to the exhibitors, we have samples from the top Perfume Trends at Pitti Fragranze 2018 Part 1 and 2 to a registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, tell us what you thought of Part 1 of Ermano’s PerfumeTrends at Pitti Fragranze 2018 and where you live. Draw closes 10/3/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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29 comments

  • middleagedandmixed says:

    I was excited to read part 1 and am looking forward to reading part 2. I love hearing about what’s trending and what’s new.
    Thanks for the post from Seattle, WA!

  • I’m always for “more substantive, & thoughtful”. I adore the Perris Monte Carlo Italian line as well as Cap Neroli! This is the first I’ve heard of Maison Rebatchi, -got my eye on that Patchouli. Great part 1 – looking forward to the next article and exactly what is a “neo-gourmand”? Thank you for the generous draw! In the US.

  • They all sound great, but Nishane and Fára are more intriguing. The first and the last always get my curiosity. I enjoy these big show reviews because I’m not in a position to travel right now and I would be overwhelmed by so many choices. I live in California

  • Enjoyed reading there were a few that I did not know they that new releases coming like Colognise Nishane. Will be keeping an eye for that one. Cannot wait to see part two. Thank you, Live in North Carolina USA

  • Jennifer Jamerson says:

    Nishane is one I’m really interested in but I love perfume. Period. I don’t own much niche (about 2 10 ml samples) and need to venture out more to stretch the “pallet”. Thanks for the chance.
    Jen in Texas.

  • Draw closes 9/3/2018 i hope it closes 10/3
    would like to sample Nishane for a long time as i visited this district . Europe

  • this is so interesting and useful for those who cannot attend. Thank you for the report and the draw!

  • Very interested in knowing more about Alberto morillas new perfumes mitzenir and Maison Rebatchi

  • I very enjoyed to read this article, and I would love to try all of these fragrances. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Wonderful overview. I would love to smell Alessandria’s Fàra. Hopefully one day his creations will be available in the US. What’s the word on Rebatchi’s Feu Patchouli?

  • How amazing it must be to attend these events! To get to interview these perfumers and to be able to smell so many new creations! I love the description of Alberto Morillas’ Mizensir Epine de rose. I love rose scents and this one sounds so interesting because it’s described as “edgy”.
    I live in the USA.

  • Loved hearing about Pitti! Wish I could go sometime. Hearing about Andy Tauer’s new fragrance and his older Miriam, which I loved. Thank you for the chance to try some new scents. I live in the US.

  • doveskylark says:

    These event roundups are a lot of fun to read. I get inspired to try so many new fragrances. Olivier Durbano’s new fragrance Pyrit Ana Tra appeals to me with its use of Russian leather.
    I live in the USA.

  • Love this review about the pitti fragranze event, it must be so exciting to get to sample so many new offerings, some of which are not available in the States. I would love to try Neroli Intense, whenit becomes available here, I live in the USA

  • What I love about this piece is that I imagine myself there, getting to know these talented people. Maybe someday…. I too would love to try neroli intense, and all they other samples. Thank you for the draw, in the us

  • Really liked that Mediterranean fragrances are becoming more trendy. Though my opinion may change in the future, as of now, i don’t think I could get tired of that theme. So fresh and invigorating, but still with a lot of character and depth.
    Im in IL, US. thanks for the draw

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    I also am happy to hear that the trend of Mediterranean fragrances will continue, refreshing Sicilian mandarin and bergamot from Calabria. Citruses are my favorites of all notes–they remind me of summer joy all year around. I look forward to part 2 of this series! I live in the US and thank you for this chance.

  • Sounds like a fun and great experience. Like to attend an event like this one day. Would love to sample all fragrances and been wanting to check out Nishane. Thanks for this draw. California

  • I’m really happy that the floral scents are growing up, it is still not many good floral scents for man. I’m very curious of Alberto Morillas new rose scent. I live in Poland.

  • I liked hearing about the citrus fragrances coming our way with Fara, Neroli Intense, and the new Nishane cologne. Although fall is here in my neck of the woods, I’d like to start thinking about next summer! I’m in the U.S. Thanks!

  • Overwhelming. So many new fragrances discussed. I can hardly wait for in depth reviews of all these marvelous new scents. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US

  • I appreciate very much your digests from the fragrance fairs and especially for informing about the trends. I am still searching for my perfect citus scent, so this is interesting for me. Antonio Alessandria Fàra sounds very appealing!
    Thank you, I live in the EU.

  • I enjoy learning about houses and people and scents that I know nothing about, and even some of the trends. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us, and for the lovely draws. In in the US. anything neroli or orange blossom interests me.

  • Thank you Ermano for sharing your experiences and impressions from Pitti Fragranze.
    Andy Tauer’s tribute to the 1925 exhibition, where were presented iconic creations, sounds amazing. Nishane’s Colognisé also seems impresive.
    Looking forward to your reviews on some of these new fragrances.
    Thank you.
    I’m in the EU.

  • I have such a love for Italian perfumery! I have found that a lot of my favourite brands are Italian so its fantastic to see them represented so well on the world stage. What I would give to visit Pitti one day! Its a LONG way from Australia but maybe it will eventually happen.

    Thank you for the draw, I am in Melbourne Australia