The house of Perris Monte Carlo was born when the Executive Vice President of Houbigant, Gian Luca Perris, and Houbigant Creative Director Elizabetta Perris realized that much of the perfume industry was focusing on branding and marketing, and not on the perfume itself. They established Perris Monte Carlo to bring perfumes to the market that are focused on classic, quality ingredients composed into elegant, luxurious fragrances. There are currently six perfumes in the line: Rose de Taif, Musk Extrême, Essence de Patchouli, Ambre Gris, Bois D’Oud, and Oud Imperial.
The Pink Rose by Charles-Amable Lenoir
The first fragrance I smelled in the line was Rose de Taif, a couple of months before the bottles were even on counter. This is a Holy Grail rose perfume for me. It is fresh, dewy, full-bodied, and true, with not a speck of the vinegar that a dense rose soliflore perfume can often become on my skin. That first experience with it was like smelling a miracle, and it has remained as such with each wearing. For some, it won’t be as earth-shattering, but anyone for whom a true rose can be difficult should seek some out.
Notes: lemon, nutmeg, geranium, Arabian Taif rose, Damask rose, musk (Perfumer Luca Maffei)
Old Barnyard Gate by Asha Carolyn Young
There are two scents in the line available at Neiman Marcus, where I tried them and obtained samples. Along with Rose de Taif, they are carrying Oud Imperial. The oud used in this composition is very much like the natural oils I have smelled, with a lovely honeyed barnyard aspect that is what I think of when I think of oud. It is rare to get this in a commercial perfume, and it is excellent. As an experiment, I applied one spritz of Oud Imperial and two of Rose de Taif, and it created a perfect dark oud rose that was perfect.
Notes: jasmine, caraway, frankincense, patchouli, saffron, sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, labdanum, agarwood (oud)-Perfumer Luca Maffei)
Powder container for Three Flowers Powder manufactured by Richard Hudnut
The remaining scents are primarily available in Europe, with expansion to the US market expected soon. I was able to obtain samples, and the first one I tried was Musk Extrême. I am one of those who is anosmic to certain musks, but I can smell this perfume very well, and it’s lovely. It’s a classic musk, in the sense that it is reminiscent of vintage powder, but it is also rich, with an almost boozy quality. The scent stays pretty linear, with a little animalic purr appearing midway, and a soft, sensuous drydown. Gorgeous.
Notes: bergamot, jasmine, rose, clove, ambergris, musk, iris, vanilla, coumarin
Patchouli Painting by Lynne Taetzch
Essence de Patchouli is rich, earthy, and just a tiny bit sweet. There is a green quality, not of budding leaves, but of mossy old growth. As it dries down, it sinks nicely into the skin, and is reminiscent of well-loved sweaters and cold-weather coziness. Those who, like me, want their patchouli with the guts intact will love this fragrance.
Notes: rose geranium, iris, cedarwood, lignum vitae, patchouli, musk, labdanum, coumarin, vanilla
The Lazy Swimmer by Sarah Ogren
Amber-centric perfumes can go a little wrong on me, but I love them conceptually and am always on the hunt for a good one. Ambre Gris is a stunning example. The balance of sweet, salty and resinous notes is perfect, with everything in balance. I keep getting whiffs of an aroma that makes me think of unlit pipe tobacco. The far drydown is sun-kissed, warm salty skin. Even hours later I was pressing my nose to my wrist in pleasure.
Notes: davana, rose, geranium, sandalwood, cedarwood, ambergris, coumarin, vanilla, labdanum, musk (Perfumer Luca Maffei)
Still Life With Flowers, Fruit, and Clay Pipe by Christopher Wool
Last but not least is Bois D’Oud, which to me is a more typical example of a commercially-available oud scent. The barnyard of Oud Imperial is replaced by smooth oiled wood, soft florals, and a touch of fruit. There are synthetic oud fragrances out there that immediately turn on my skin, becoming sweaty or very artificial. Not so with this fragrance. It’s very well made, and I really enjoyed the fruit, which is not treacly or artificial smelling. Anyone who enjoys woody scents is encouraged to try this.
Notes: bergamot, peach, plum, jasmine, iris, rose, orange blossom, cedarwood, agarwood (oud), patchouli, vanilla, ambergris, labdanum, musk
Elizabetta (center left) and Gian Luca (center) Perris at Perris Monte Carlo launch In San Francisco
All in all, I am very impressed by the quality and classic style of the Perris Monte Carlo line. It is obvious that care has been taken to present fragrances that are luxurious, at a great price point, and obviously made with care and passion for the perfume itself.
I received my samples from my Perris Monte Carlo representative at Neiman Marcus San Francisco. Rose de Taif and Oud Imperial are available at Neiman Marcus and Henri Bendel in the US and the whole line is available at First in Fragrance for $150 for 100 ml.
Tama Blough, Deputy Editor
Thanks to the generosity of Perris Monte Carlo we have a draw for a 5 ml decant of Rose de Taif and a carded sample of Oud Imperial for a reader residing in the US, so you can try my delicious blend yourself. Let us know which of these appeals to you, and where you live. Draw Ends February 14, 2014.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.