I want to simplify the analytical approach… these fragrances are created on the basis of two or three accords or original materials; they need to be experienced in their entirety. You can appreciate them better by distancing yourself from them to some extent, just as you need to stand back from a painting to observe it properly…
Odin New York City the Soho men’s clothing store entered the fragrance arena earlier this year with three fragrances; 01 Nomad, 02 Owari, and 03 Century. Once any perfume label starts numbering things you know there will be another and just six months after the debut of the original three, number four has arrived. 04 Petrana is the latest and it is named after a version of black iris that blooms in the Jordanian desert.
Friend in fragrance Mr. Akshay Bhatia, Owner and Perfumer of independent perfume house Surabhi Fragrances, was inspired during a perfume conversation between perfumers from all around the globe to create a perfume that he called Kathmandu. Mr. Bhatia indeed did take the time in his lab to make two different versions of “Kathmandu”, one that was made with almost entirely synthetic materials and the other an almost completely natural version, with the addition of synthetic aldehydes. As I eagerly anticipated samples, I was surprised when instead of physical bottles of perfume he sent me perfume briefs (notated formula for perfume) and suggested that I make them myself. Being an entirely Natural Perfumer and having absolutely no experience with synthetics I was rather intimidated by the long list of chemicals,but nonetheless ordered the exhaustive list and the natural equivalents in order to “have a go” as my British relatives would say.
A great deal of satisfaction is to be found chez Yves Rocher- particularly in their
Secrets d’Essences line. Among these is their newest release, authored by Jacques Cavailler of Firmenich -Secrets D’Essences Vanille Noire. Most definitely vanille- and barely noire.
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2010 has been a year of cologne releases that have helped redefine and revolutionize the idea of eau de cologne. One of those revolutionary ideas was that of a “cologne absolue”. It is a version of perfumery that I was hopeful to see more of. It only took six months for me to see my aspiration come true. Francis Kurkdjian followed up with absolue formulations of the two colognes from his Maison Francis Kurkdjian line. These are not flankers they are truly as M. Kurkdjian calls them “alter egos” to the corresponding Cologne.
