Mata Hari via wiki
A mysterious rose meets a smoky oud in the dark alleys of a casbah. Shadowy, removed, both male and female, it’s a scent that that conjures ancient Arabian markets and elusive women. This is Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir, a spicy, woody scent dabbed with a plush rose and changeable oud that keep you guessing where and when they will turn up.
Linda Pilkington photo by Hernando at the British Walpole Event
Founder and perfumer Linda Pilkington takes her luxuriant Ta’if and smudges it up with dry-as-a-bone-Cambodian oud. The opening surprised me. Knowing the rich, rosy confection that is Ormonde Jayne Ta’if, I expected to be greeted with a shower of petals, syrupy orange blossom and jasmine rolling around with some frisky spice. Ta’if Elixir starts with a big twist of pink pepper and a dusting of saffron. The spices hang in the air as oud, with assertive facets of burnished wood and hookah smoke, steps forward. Accompanied by a subtle hint of dates, and the concord grape sweetness of broom, the oud develops in several directions: oaky, medicinal, smoky.
Photo by Nick Knight, Vogue UK, November 2006
For these first few moments, the rose in Ta’if Elixir plays cherchez la femme. But then, just as I am left wondering where that ta’if went, she makes her entrance, draped in the veils of the harem. Gauzy rose petals peel off delicately as orange blossom sweeps in. The sweetness begins to amplify like the buzz of bees. At this point, different facets of the rose comes through; a swipe of lipstick, fresh young blooms from the garden.
Photo by Candice Ghai
There’s a secretive quality to the middle section. The high-quality, complex oud that Pilkington uses keeps switching directions. This oud smells, at different times, like old library walls, pouch tobacco, torch smoke, hair tonic. It adds a classy restraint and warmth to more full-blown versions of this dynamic duo, where more generically medicinal oud is amped up to compete with an enormous, hair-teased rose. Don’t get me wrong; I have a fondness for those perfumes, too. But Ormonde Jayne brings something different to the petal-strewn table: a classy, warm fragrance that’s a pas de deux between rich, fluffy rose and spiced oud, teetering between masculine and feminine, never quite settling on either. Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir is romantic in the way of a Mahler symphony: sweeping, changeable never quite telling you the whole story.
Notes: Pink Pepper, saffron, dates, rose oil, freesia, orange blossom absolute, jasmine, broom, amber, Cambodian oud.
Disclaimer: sample of Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir kindly provided by Ormonde Jayne. My opinions are my own.
– Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor
Ormonde Jayne Ta’if Elixir via Instagram and apped
Thanks to the generosity of Europerfumes, U.S. distributor for Ormonde Jayne, we have a 50 ml tester bottle for one registered reader in the U.S. ONLY. To be eligible, please comment on what appeals to you about Ta’if Elixir based on Lauryn’s review and whether you have a favourite Ormonde Jayne perfume or Elixir. Draw closes 10.19.201
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