Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne is the perfumer for Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir (photo Hernando)
What constitutes an English aesthetic? In attempting to expound on any such concept these days one runs the risk of offense, misrepresentation, scowls (at the very least) and contention. Perhaps I’ve been on the planet too long to be perturbed – so I’ll nibble at this one anyway. Interpretation of English Aesthetic Chez Meister…
Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir by Ida
I’ve been married for 36+ years to a British national. Our sons have dual citizenship. My maternal grandfather spoke Yiddish with a decided Cockney accent, having left Minsk at age four and emigrated to Cable Street in London’s East End in the 1890s. My entire life has been spent surrounded by Brits. Fin. Over the years I’ve come to associate the English with a friendly reserve, sartorial flair, a wicked sense of humor, and at the high end – a particular elegance all their own. An historical eye only reaffirms this: throughout its years as a colonial power the British Empire experienced fascination (nay, likely obsession) with the exotic and it manifested in the arts and infiltrated its cuisine. India, Pakistan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Ceylan, Burma (among other nations) seized the fevered public imagination with a fury which ought not to surprise, considering their contrast to the temperate nature of a native green and pleasant land. Spices, teas, coffee, sensuous colorful textiles all made their way to the imperial island and were keenly appreciated and highly prized, although I suspect that the initial response may have been astonishment at such opulence. English comestibles, potables, textiles possessed a vastly different beauty to those which arrived via the trade routes.
Elsa, Sir Francis Bernard Dicksee
Enter Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir. Ms. Pilkington refers to Orris Noir in classification as ‘atmospheric, oriental’ and I agree heartily. It’s a fine point of departure. Linda Pilkington’s inspiration stems from the black iris she cultivates in her garden among bluebells and violets. It’s also the national flower and royal symbol of the kings of Jordan – another nod to distant lands.
Black Iris Jordan Flower via panoramamman.com
Every form of art evokes or provokes some reaction within us. Art is alchemical. It doesn’t necessarily follow that one has to enjoy it, venerate it, or desire being in its company, however. When a perfume is aesthetically pleasing and you reach for it again and again, both the creator and the wearer are best pleased: win-win. I personally feel that Ormonde Jayne is highly skilled in this regard. Perfumes which sit forlornly upon the shelf without a fleshly canvas are purely decorative – and that is a luxury which most of us can ill afford. Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir is a lovely case-in-point: its deeply resinous nature possesses just enough floralcy for gentility, spice for piquancy, woodiness to ground the composition. There is a soothing quality to the drydown – something profoundly restful, as if order and elegance are in balance. The world makes sense. There is sufficient exoticism to hold one’s interest wed to elements which comfort such as joyful sambac jasmine, the holy aridity of myrrh, that satiny silver we know as orris. Discretion needn’t be boring unless you are devoid of imagination – which Linda Pilkington is not. Like so many other fragrances she creates, art and wearability go hand in hand without a smidgen of sacrifice. Cacaphony can be fascinating, but if you seek it, look elsewhere – because Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir is about the harmonious whole. For me, it is the intrigue of the far-flung filtered through an English eye, rendered delightful for a wider audience. Think of cuisines slightly modified to tempt newcomers or a hemline/neckline raised or lowered to showcase your best features. Viewed in this light, it’s easy to appreciate what this line has to offer (It bears notice that heavier, more intense and oud-y fragrances have their proper place among the Ormonde Jaynes and are duly represented in the fold.) as you search for a scent you will love and wear repeatedly with pleasure.
Notes: davana, pink pepper, coriander seed, bergamot, iris, jasmine sambac absolute, pimento berries, bay, incense, myrrh, patchouli, Chinese cedar, gaiac
Thanks to Europerfumes, the US distributor for my beautiful tester bottle of Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir; I love it. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Ida, Hernando and Ormonde Jayne images
photo by Ida
Thanks to the kindness of Europerfumes we have 50 ml bottle of Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir for one registered reader in the USA only. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please comment upon what appealed to you in Ida’s review of Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir. Do you have a favorite Ormonde Jayne fragrance? Draw closes October 2, 2019
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