Celine Verleure and Dominique Ropion via Celine Verleure
Michelyn and I felt deeply honored Esxence 2019 when Creative Director Céline Verleure shared generous samples (still in their IFF-labeled lab bottles) of the trio of new Sepia Collection releases composed by Maître Parfumeur Dominique Ropion. These are expected to launch this coming autumn and will be part of their Sepia Collection, soliflores reenvisioned: Olfactive Studio Iris Shot, Violet Shot, and Rose Shot.
Genevieve Bujold in the King of Hearts, 1966
It’s a fair assessment to note that both Olfactive Studio Iris Shot and Violet Shot nestle themselves into the terrain of gourmand soliflores. They share common ground: ionones and irones, albeit showcased differently; a creamy drydown which lingers beguilingly; pink pepper as introduction; spice interwoven cleverly without calling undue attention to itself. Both are easy to wear and beautiful in a characteristically French manner – picture young Geneviève Bujold in Philippe de Broca’s 1966 cult film The King of Hearts (Le Roi de Coeur). One may appreciate loveliness up close; there is undeniable comfort in a fragrant second skin. I think they are unabashedly romantic.
Sepia Collection Olfactive Studio Iris Shot Photo by Roberto Greco
Olfactive Studio Iris Shot is initially bright, peppery, rooty – the intricate dance between pink pepper and cardamom is delightful, yielding itself to carrot seed and orris. I love these phases; they contrast earthly/unearthly, as I find carrot seed to be fatty, herbal-spicy and rhizomal – whereas orris feels more powdery, quicksilver-like in its earthy character. Each is remarkably tenacious and a marvelous fixative in perfumery; they are augmented with iris aldehydes for good measure and expansivity, The ensuing development fascinates because somehow it manages to be sweet, somewhat woody and resembles pastry dough. Cedar and Ambroxan insinuate themselves with vetiver enhancing the verdancy we first experienced earlier. It’s almond accord time which skews everything sweet and bread-y; you can almost taste it. Iris Shot is a very different take on iris gourmand (Guerlain Iris Ganache, we’re winking at you.). It’s not as self-consciously sweet (yes, I bought a bottle in 2007 – and I still love it) as the Guerlain, as almond as Lancôme Iris Dragées or vanillic in the vein of Lancôme Lavandes Trianon. Iris Shot’s drydown is subtly enveloping and delicately-hued; it’s beautiful.
Notes: Madagascan pink pepper, Guatemalan cardamom, iris aldehyde, French cassis bud, orris concrete, almond accord, carrot seed, Virginia cedar, Haitian vetiver, Ambroxan
Olfactive Studio Violet Shot Photo by Roberto Greco
Olfactive Studio Violet Shot opens with sunlit spice. Mandarin is positively frisky with pink pepper and the first burst is playful. There’s something magical which occurs when the violet leaf note encounters saffron: it’s as if limpidity was embroidered with golden thread, barely visible. Now we smell a glowing gourmand, ambery/vanillic in tone yet recognizably violet. A tender patchouli note waxes wistful in Violet Shot’s base as if on tiptoe, sylvan sans menace. There are no beasts lining the green glade, only wood violets illuminated by the random shaft of light.
Notes: Calabrian mandarin, Madagascar pink pepper, cut grass accord, Safraleine, Egyptian violet leaf, Indonesian patchouli, Madagascar vanilla, Spanish labdanum
Samples generously provided by Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio, many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumery Editor
Roberto Greco with Celine Verleure via Instagram
The photographic shot for each is a single powerful image by Roberto Greco. “Roberto is an Italian-born Swiss citizen, and a horticulturist by profession. He also studied photography and visual communication. His photographic work is part professional and part research and the way he builds his subjects shows diligence and meticulousness. Whether he shoots a portrait or a still life, Roberto Greco’s view of the real world is filled with wonder, which translates into metaphors and flamboyant dream-like effects.” Each will sell for $275 for 100 ml –Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief
Photo by Ermano of Violet Shot, Rose Shot and Iris Shot Display
We are indebted to Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio for these precious samples! We will decant 4 mls. each of both Olfactive Studio Iris Shot and Olfactive Studio Violet Shot -(into glass sprayer bottles) to a reader anywhere in the world. The draw is for registered readers so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you enjoyed about Ida’s review, and where you live. Which of the these two appeal to you the most and why? Draw closes 5/18/2019. Do you have a favorite Olfactive Studio fragrance?
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