Notes From the Lab: Soliflore Perfumes + For The Scent of It Rose to Nowhere Giveaway

 

What are soliflore perfumes

Soliflore Perfumes Mouillettes via For the Scent of It (Pronounced Solly-Floor)

When you hear the word, “Soliflore”, what do you think about? Does it conjure up the image of a Rose, Peony, or maybe Jonquil? Does it call to mind a specific perfume? Perhaps, you’re simply asking yourself, “What in the world is a soliflore (and how do I pronounce it)?”

Peony perfumes

Peony via For the Scent of It©

Like the word suggests, I think the best way to define soliflore perfumes are those whose olfactory profile centers around a solitary flower. Think of someone handing you a single rose instead of a bouquet of many different flowers.

There is a lot of speculation and opinions about which  fragrances can be deemed soliflore perfumes. Just because a scent has jasmine listed as a note, and the jasmine note is prominent on your skin, this by no means makes it a jasmine soliflore. Some see a soliflore as a fragrance that simply contains, let’s say, a tuberose enfleurage diluted in alcohol. Technically, they’re not wrong. What if it’s a perfume where the only flower listed is peony in the heart, but the fragrance is intended to smell like “the modern woman”? Is that a peony soliflore? If you ask me, there’s far too much grey area!

Lily of the Valley perfumes

 Lily of the Valley via Unsplash

So, herein lies the biggest question. What exactly qualifies as soliflore perfumes? In this perfumer’s opinion, when a fragrance is created with the sole intention to illuminate a specific flower, then it is a soliflore. The flower may be picked under a cloudy sky, growing in a desert, living in Edmond Roudnitska’s garden, etc. etcetera. But it is all about that one flower.

Dior Diorissimo is one of the most famous soliflore perfumes

Diorissimo via Michel Roudnitska, ÇaFleureBon

How do you know when it’s a soliflore? Often, the name of the perfume can be a telltale sign. Think Tea Rose (Perfumer’s Workshop, 1977) or Dolce Peony by Dolce & Gabbana (2019). Other times, the story of the perfume’s conception tells all. Think of Diorissimo (Christian Dior, 1956). This perfume contains many florals, but the perfumer, Edmond Roudnitska worked to capture the essence of the lily of the valley flowers growing in his garden. This can therefore be called a “lily of the valley soliflore perfume”. A floral fragrance with the intention of provoking the image and essence of a certain flower.

Now that we shed a little light on that grey area, let’s move on to what makes these perfumes so special. Think of it like this: “Arranging a floral bouquet requires balance. Harnessing a single flower requires vision.” Obviously, all perfumery takes balance and vision, no doubt. What I mean by this is that to create a bouquet, a perfumer must blend many different flowers in such a way that every flower can be seen – Balance. When creating a soliflore perfume, the perfumer must be able to SEE a flower and express that image in a concise way – Vision. Then to build up the rest of the fragrance to not just enhance that flower but place it on a pedestal for all to admire.

Does this sound easy? It can be simple if a perfumer wants it to be. Especially, with all the advances in science and GC/MS analyses done on flowers. A perfumer can create a floral accord using a GC/MS analysis that reveals the molecules that make up its aroma. Then just add some fixative value and a little transparent lift, and boom, you have a soliflore. Where’s the fun in that though? I think what makes a soliflore perfume so special is the ability for a perfumer to paint an image of the flower in their own brush strokes. That’s where the true challenge lies in creating great soliflore perfumes. To take a flower and build a fragrance around it that transports people into the flower’s world.

rose soliflore perfumes

“Rose to Nowhere” For The Scent of It

For instance, take the new “Rose to Nowhere” here at For the Scent of It. This is certainly a soliflore perfume, given my intention was to capture the image of this one rose. My soliflore is “rose growing on a road to nowhere in the western desert” will be very different from another perfumer’s. I envisioned a crimson, desert rose surrounded by amber sands. moss covered rocks, and a sunset of orange and red. Another perfumer might see a white rose in the still of the desert night with thunder in the distance. Same exact brief for a “soliflore rose on a desert road to nowhere”, but very different visions.

That’s what makes soliflore perfumes interesting. Every perfumer sees a flower in their own light. Where is the flower? Is it morning or night? One perfumer’s peony might be growing in the center of a garden. Another might be growing on the dark side of the moon. One rose is growing in the West American desert, while another rose is growing in the Middle Eastern desert.

The possibilities for soliflore perfumes truly are endless. You just gotta stop and smell the roses.

 

Michael Schrammel of For the Scent of It

Michael Schrammel of For the Scent of It

 Michael Schrammel is a Contributor for www.cafleurebon.com. Michael is the owner, perfumer and everything in between at For the Scent of It perfumes. His persistence, creativity, and desire to create an atmosphere drive his fragrance development. Self-trained, Michael started studying the art of perfumery in 2015 before launching For the Scent of It perfumes in 2021. Visit his shop at www.forthescentofit.com

All photos are owned by For the Scent of It perfumes, unless otherwise stated.

Rose to Nowhere For the Scent of It

Rose to Nowhere Bottle, For the Scent of It

As a thank you for enjoying Michael’s ÇaFleureBon’s “Notes from the Lab” series, For the Scent of It will be doing a giveaway for a 30ml bottle of  For The Scent of It Rose to Nowhere for one lucky registered winner. Leave a comment telling us what flower you love most as a soliflore. Winner must have an address in the USA or Canada. Giveaway closes 1/31/2024.

Top: Orange, Raspberry, Saffron, Papyrus; Heart: Rose, Amyris, Texas Cedarwood: Base: Amber Sands, Leather, Desert Moss, Vetiver

Read Michael’s  Profile in American Perfumery here

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31 comments

  • What a breath of fresh air this read was and to be enlightened by the concept of soliflore. How the perfumer must be able to “SEE” a flower and express that image in a concise way. It doesn’t seem easy and to be able to create such a thing is appreciated. The flower I love most as a soliflore is the rose. The way it can be interpreted as having sweet jammy or dusty nuances is what I love. Thank you. New York, USA.

  • Love the debate on soliflors. Rose is my single flower choice. Roseto nowhere is right up my alley. I am in US.

  • I haven’t really explore enough soliflores to have a favorite but I love lily-of-the-valley and cherry blossoms. I think it’s so interesting the way a perfumer can bring out certain characteristics of a chosen flower to make it more unique and special.
    NY, USA

  • As a big fan of Michael’s work, I have been eager to try this one. I love his imagery of a desert rose surrounded by amber sands and mossy rocks. It makes me thing there will be a certain spicy element to the fragrance, along with some warm ambers and mossy tones in the base. Soliflore is a realm of perfumery I have not explored near as much as others, but I have gotten my nose on a few. Darren Alan’s Jonquille from last year was an incredible vision of spring dandelions. I’m excited to see what Michael’s vision of a crimson rose will be. Best of luck to all. I live in NC, USA.

  • Oh, rose rose rose….no other soliflore stands alone with as much heart, poise and depth across time. Thank you for this lovely article and this generous draw. I live in NH, USA

  • I love For the Scent of It’s Stone Roses; Rose to Nowhere sounds amazing too. I do like me a good Tulip soliflore though. That green springy spritz! I live in the US

  • I love the insightful exploration of soliflore perfumes in this article! It’s fascinating how each perfumer can capture a single flower in their unique vision. Personally, my favorite soliflores are rose – the queen of flowers and the jasmine – envisioning its blossoms under a moonlit night or bathed in the warmth of a sunrise.

    Thanks for such a thoughtful article!

    Canada

  • I was in the last group that didn’t know what a Soliflore was but you have enlightened me and I’m delighted to smell a Rose Soliflore. I would go a step further and actually like to smell a Taif Rose Soliflore. Thank you for the giveaway. I’m in TX USA

  • kusudamakitten98 says:

    I really enjoyed this article about soliflore perfumes — it was very enlightening and educational! I enjoy tuberose the most so far, but there are so many I have not yet experienced. I would be delighted to try Rose to Nowhere — it sounds like a completely different take on rose than anything I have smelled before.

    From NJ, USA

  • AromaDulce73 says:

    Didn’t know much about soliflore or soliflore perfumes, very interesting information. Not a big “floral” lover when it comes to fragrances but I’m very interested to smell the rose in “Rose to Nowhere” by For the Scent of It.

    Los Angeles Ca. USA

  • Literally the most gorgeous and captivating soliflore of any flower for me is The Rose. Green, wet, dewy, dry, jammy, boozy, bitter, balsamic, or completely sugary ambery. All rose. Rose is the fragrance I reach for almost every day in “the dead of winter” because it deeply resonates with me and how I feel lavish and enriched and completely enrobed in its luxe and gorgeous quality. Though I absolutely adore so many floral aromas on earth, Rose is my queen.
    From Portland, OR.

  • I learned something today! 🙂 Had no heard the term “soliflore” prior to this article (I’m a noob AND from Ohio, so what can I say?). Appreciate the insight and image Michael offers with Rose to Nowhere. As it happens, rose is my favorite soliflore, at least so far! Cheers!

  • recursivemask says:

    I’d have to say my favorite soliflore is jasmine. There’s nothing quite like sitting by a big bush of it in flower, with the scent spread throughout the yard. US.

  • Michele Miller says:

    What an interesting discussion about the perfumer’s definition of a soliflore. I think I would prefer a soliflore of either rose or orchid; I can’t decide between the two. I’m especially interested in the story/vision the perfumer has of the fragrance. Background stories always help me to enjoy a fragrance and to, sometimes, see it in a different light than just my own perception.

  • FragranceIsMe says:

    Michael has such a wonderful gift in making the complex art of perfumery easily understood. I now can add the word “soliflore” to my olfactive vocabulary 🙂
    The flowers that I find most appealing are rose, jasmine, and magnolia.
    The supporting notes in “Rose To Nowhere”, seem as if they will elevate Michael’s rose soliflore to a “unique” pedestal. One that I look forward to experiencing.
    PA, USA

  • Maria Malaveci says:

    I’m not sure if it would be a soliflore but I absolutely love the smell of gardenia.

  • This looks to be an amazing combination of scents! If I were to pick a soliflore scent it would be roses or orange blossom, but I’m a sucker for roses! Thank you for the article.

  • As Michael noted, soliflores are interesting because they’re open to interpretation. Is it a photorealistic flower blooming in the tropical sun or maybe an abstract nascent bud struggling to open in chilly early spring. I’ve smelled lots of rose soliflores and all were different. Would love to try Michael’s interpretation. As an iris fan, I’m always interested in trying iris soliflores. I’m in the US.

  • Osmanthus soliflore I adore close second Orange blossom. A couple of years ago, while on a local walking path along a creek, I picked up a smell that enchanted me. I tracked it down: a Black Locust tree was blooming. I think it would make a beautiful Soliflore. This statement was profoundly exciting and intriguing to me, “that’s where the true challenge lies in creating great soliflore perfumes. To take a flower and build a fragrance around it that transports people into the flower’s world.” I am in the US western desert.

  • A absolutely love a good rose solifore, and I love rose in perfumery in general. However, my absolute favorite flower to smell is hyacinth. I’ve loved it since it was a child. I have yet to smell a hyacinth soliflore, and if one even exists please tell me, because I will be the first in line to buy it. I’ve tried a few with hyacinth, Tom Ford Ombré Hyacinth, for example, and others with hyacinth notes, such as Boucheron Jaipur Bracelet, but none has yet given me the joy of smelling that enchanting early spring flower. Ohio, USA

  • Honestly, Roses are my favorite and therefore would be my favorite soliflore choice. As your article points out, soliflores can be wildly varied and open to everyones interpretation which I love but A desert rose sounds absolutely perfect!

  • thee_boy_wonder says:

    All things floral are right up my alley! I really enjoy the series on FB! I love that expansion!

    Pennsylvania, US

  • Rose to Nowhere sounds amazing, I’d love to smell it! I do enjoy a good stargazer lily perfume. There’s no mistaking it with it’s deep white, pink, and green tones. In US.

  • This was enlightening and enjoyable to read. I have never considered my favorite soliflore before and thinking about these kinds of individual flowers in the dead dreary winter feels so foreign right now! I guess it would be rose, as that seems to be one of the most recurring group of scents I own, followed by lilies.
    The image of the fragrance in the glittery sand is lovely and alludes to a rose fragrance I have never smelled before. Thank you for this giveaway! From Canada!

  • What a great article thank you Michael!! And thank you for your generous chance to win the Rose!! I looove rose. Just love it. Hmm favorite soliflore would probably Osthmanthus because of the ways you could nudge it here or there (tea or green or lightly sweet or?) or Blue Lotus for a similar reason. But I do adore Champaca too! Oh don’t make me decide!!
    In California

  • Sherin Thomas says:

    I haven’t really explore enough soliflores to have a favorite but I love lily-of-the-valley and cherry blossoms. I think it’s so interesting the way a perfumer can bring out certain characteristics of a chosen flower to make it more unique and special.
    From PA, USA

  • Soliflore perfumes are always interesting—they seem like a study in how to come at one idea in many different ways. Michael’s explanation of what makes a fragrance a soliflore or not is fair; there’s lots of gray area and I’ve heard various definitions for a concept that shouldn’t be particularly nebulous. And I love that qoute: “Arranging a floral bouquet requires balance. Harnessing a single flower requires vision.” And I agree that truly interesting soliflores build that singular flower from unexpected materials and combinations. And I’m enjoying my Rose to Nowhere sample. It’s focused on the rose—rich and fruity—with a warm, russet light shining on it. Another interesting writeup in this From the Lab series. Answering the prompt, Immortelle would make a really compelling soliflore. Anything out there like that?

    I’m in the USA.

  • foreverscents says:

    I love the idea of a rose perfume on a desert road to nowhere. I am very intrigued by the notes that will represent the road and the desert sands.
    I have only recently become interested in soliflores. I grew up in the USA south, so I have always liked heady flowers like gardenia and magnolia.
    I live in the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the nice writeup Michael.

    I have a question – what is the difference between a soliloflore and a floral accord?

    I’m really intrigued by the construction of Rose to nowhere (love the name also). Based on the notes, the perfumer has done a lot of justice to create a rose that is just growing in the middle of nowhere, spreading it beauty in that dry wamrth for somebody to stop by and notice.

    Cheers from WI, USA