Nomenclature Aloeae courtesy of the brand
Ach, wie so bald verhallet der Reigen,
Wandelt sich Frühling in Winterzeit!
Ach, wie so bald in trauendes Schweigen
Wandelt sich alle die Fröhlichkeit!
Bald sind die letzen Klänge verflogen!
Bald sind die letzen Sänger gezogen!
Bald ist das letze Grün dahin!
Alle sie wollen heimwärts zieh’n! ~ excerpt from Herbstlied (Autumn Song) by poet Karl Klingemann
Oh, how soon the dance fades, Spring turns to Autumn! Oh, how soon, in trusting silence – everyone’s joy changes! Soon the last sounds flee! Soon the last singer departs! Soon the last green is no more! All wish to return homeward! (my translation)
Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero co-founders of Nomenclature (Photo Lorenzo Barassi)
It is almost the middle of September, and the early harbingers of approaching autumn are making their presence felt: a shift in the light at dawn and dusk; the gradual, inevitable variegation in foliage hues; orchards flush with ripening apples and pears auguring culinary delight. One might well question the release of a verdantly fresh fragrance at this time of the year. It is not the season of the calendar cycle which we celebrate with Nomenclature’ Aloeae – it is the season of the soul, its need for rejuvenation, a different variety of rebirth.
Sound of Many Waters John Everett Millais 1876 wiki
The collective spirit is weary; it aches for surcease. Our global environs teem with ongoing sorrows, losses of life and liberties, personal tragedy. Our world is forever altered by The Virus, war, poverty, injustice. I always feel that it is no coincidence (I don’t believe in them) that all cultures observe rituals which give thanks for the harvest, that the ‘head of the year’ (Rosh Hashanah) is marked with gratitude and the desire to create a clean slate. In this setting, Nomenclature Aloeae makes perfect sense to me.
John Everett Millais Chill October 1870 common use
Aloeae might best be described as a spiritual salve. When tempers flare and emotions run hot a cooling panacea is called for, and this fragrance is composed of numerous elements which lend themselves to soul soothing. Verdancy arrives in the guise of an aloe vera accord, tender bamboo, and a judicious measure of peppermint for a piquant touch. Even the accented cardamom smells green in this context. Both white tea and black tea impart a distinctly floral aspect – more prominent in the former, as the latter possesses more body and depth, establishing a bridge between Aloeae’s aromatics and its subtly musky cashmere wood (Cashmeran®) base. Cashmeran® is one of those marvelous materials which has it all: facets of fruit, spice, florals, wood, and (of course) musk. We take it for granted, because it seems ubiquitous – and if it is, there is ample reason. Bergamot is happy to introduce the cast of fragrant characters, a brief beam of tonic light.
For all its virtues, my favorite moments occur during Aloeae’s drydown. It is an alignment of constituents: the fragrance’s initial ebullience has ebbed somewhat and appears tenderhearted, familiar and comforting. Despite its tenacity and long wear, Aloeae has become that consoling whisper in the ear which hovers close, like a talisman.
Notes: Italian bergamot, cardamom, white tea, peppermint, aloe vera, bamboo, cashmere wood, Ceylon black tea, musk
Sample kindly provided by Aedes Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Nomenclature Aloeae courtesy of the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature we have one 20 ml bottle of Nomenclature Aloeae for one registered reader in the US (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, please tell us what appeals to you about Aloeae based upon Ida’s review. Draw close 9/17/2024
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Available at Aedes Perfumery and other fine stockists
Please read Michelyn’s introduction to the Molecular Collection and to the brand in 2015
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