Nicolaï Parfumeur Fig Tea (2007) L’ Eau Mixte (2010) & Incense Oud (2016)~Perfume Reviews + The 3 Nicolaï Perfumes You Should Be Wearing Draw

Patricia de Nicolaï has been an independent perfumer and founded her own brand since 1989…here in her lab in Paris (Photo Credit: Madame de Nicolaï)

I’ve been the biggest fan of Madame Patricia de Nicolaï for almost 20 years; it started with Number One in the mid 90s, and has carried on through several bottles of Sacrebleu, Odalisque and Week-end in Deauville.

Photo of Michelyn’s Bottle of Kiss Me Intense (formerly Kiss Me Tender) and her copy of Nicolaï parfumeur-createur, un metier d'artiste©

I went on to fall for L’Temps d’ une FeteJuste une Reve, and Kiss Me Tender and…you get the idea!  Madame de Nicolaï is the “First Lady of Niche Perfumery” (as our Editor in Chief has called her); I believe she is a perfumer of rare talent, who shattered the glass ceiling of the “boys perfumer club” which ruled the fragrance industry 30 years ago.

Parfums de Nicolai boutique Neuilly sur Seine, au 31 rue de Chartres opened in 2017©

Earlier this summer I spent several hours happily sampling the entire line in their charming Paris boutique; there was not a single fragrance I did not enjoy. I can think of no other house, with as many offerings, that I would make this claim. After much back and forth, here are the three Nicolaï perfumes I think you should be wearing now, in the early golden days of Autumn.

Lemons on a Branch – Claude Monet 1884

Here in my corner of the world, the worst of summer is behind us, and we probably won’t see 100 degrees again, but it’s still way too warm to put away lighter scents.  L’ Eau Mixte (2010), a sparkling beauty is a summer staple of mine, and its herbally goodness is refreshing and intoxicating. It is a testament to Madame’s genius that I wear it almost constantly, despite my bias against eau fraiches. L’ Eau Mixte starts out with a burst of lemon, that smells of the rind, pith and fruit at the opening.

Autumn Sun, Edward Cucuel

Mint and black-currant bud enhance the refreshing aspect of the lemon citruses, while jasmine and rose add a beauty that lifts the fragrance out of mere cologne territory. But it’s the cinnamon and oakmoss in the drydown that make L’ Eau Mixte an early autumn must have for me, and it wears especially well as the evening start to cool down.NOTES: Blackcurrant-buds, peppermint, lemon from Italy, cinnamon, Rose from Damask, Jasmine, vetiver, oakmoss 

Sunset Thoughts Isaac Maimon©

 If I am on the go from dawn to dusk  and had to choose one perfume to waft when the weather is so fickle it could be both frightful and delightful in the same day, I look no further than Fig Tea (2007). This is fruity floral perfection; softly sophisticated in the heat of the day, or warm and polished on a cool evening. I can never get enough osmanthus, and Mme. blends it beautifully with ripe fig and smoky tea. NOTES: Figs, osmanthus, davana, tea

Oud smoke flower digital art by MC

 If you think you know oud….please  allow us to introduce you to Incense Oud (2016). We see you rolling your eyes, and we get it; we are all pretty much "ouded" out. Tammy confesses she almost didn’t even try this one on, but she was standing in the Boutique, reminding  herself that Mme de Nicolai is the creator of one of her favorite perfume houses and is the the closest we have to perfume royalty(Pierre Guerlain’s great granddaughter, Jean-Pierre Guerlain’s niece, a Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur, and the President of the Osmothèque.) Of course, she tried everything, even the oud. And now she is pretty sure that she wants to be buried with a bottle of it.

 Algerian Girl 1888, Frederick Arthur, Bridgman

Incense Oud surprised us. We had always thought of oud as harsh, dark, and sometimes rather coarse; here it is graceful and elegant. The incense and the oud are exquisitely blended by Mme Nicolaï expert hand, teasing out facets of oud Tammy had never experienced before. The beautiful floral notes in particular and the boozy, liqueur-like effect of the davana made Tammy dizzy with delight.  It smells magnificent in any season, at any time of day, on any occasion. It is an olfactive jewel. NOTES: Davana, ambrette, artemisia, oud, cypriol cedar, patchouli, rose, coriander, cumin, castoreum, amber, musk, incense

Disclosure: Some samples generously provided by Parfums de Nicolai, some are from our own collections

~Tammy Schuster, Senior Contributor and Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Thanks to the generosity Patricia de Nicolaï of Parfums de Nicolaï, we have a reader’s choice for  a  30 ml bottle of Incense Oud  or L’ Eau Mixte or Fig Tea for one registered reader worldwide (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about the reviews, which of the three you would you like to win, where you live and if you have a favorite Parfums de Nicolaï fragrance. Draw closes September 28, 2017.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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43 comments

  • I am intrigued by Incense Oud because it is not harsh, has floral elements, and show novel facets of oud My favorite Nicolai creation is New York. I am in US.

  • This incense oud short review is great. I really love the notes and i would love to try it. I live in the EU, thanks for the draw.

  • I loved the reviews, particularly the comments on Eau Mixte, because I agree about its herbally goodness… but my wife doesn’t like it much, alas. I’d love to try Incense Oud. I’m in the US. My favorite Nicolaï is the original New York. I wish I had a gallon of that!

  • Roger Engelhardt says:

    I have known of this line for many years. I did own New York and Patchouli Intense, long emptied!!
    That Tammy wants to douse herself in Incense Oud, is enough to spark my longing for that!!
    I am in the USA.

  • I’m a big fan of Parfums de Nicolai and am always happy to see mention of them as I think they deserve to be known. I love Odalisque so much that I had to buy a second bottle as insurance! I haven’t tried Insence Oud but I’d love to as I also love Amber Oud with its lovely lavender note. I’m writing from Canada.

  • Huge fan over here, as well!
    I like that the review covers a very wide breadth of flavor profiles, which is rare nowadays (on other sites, that is).
    My favorites from PdN are Odalisque, Sacrebleu, and Fig Tea… which I would love, love, love to own.
    I’m in the US. Cheers,d

  • As a scientist, I always think visual-olfactory imagery is the most intriguing and sophisticated part of our brain. I love how pictures are well selected to aid readers in getting a better idea of the scents described here. Cheers!

    I have heard of madam Nicolai, but never tried her work before. I imagine Fig Tea would be a perfect match for me. With love from OH, USA!

  • This sounds like an amazing perfume house. I have never tried anything from their line. I love the notes of Incense Oud!
    I live in the US.

  • What i enjoyed most from article was learning a bit of madam Nicolai that i never knew.
    unfortunately i have only tried amber oud
    i live in canada
    I choose incense oud please if i win
    thnx 4 giveaway

  • I never had a chance to try out the Parfums de Nicolaï, but now you convinced very much that INCENSE OUD is something everybody must have!! 🙂 I really like the notes of that perfume, the combination is quite unusual! Thank you for this exciting introduction to smth new!
    I live in the EU.

  • Incense Oud: Interested in this.

    It was wonderful to read the details about Madame Patricia de Nicolaï. Respect for her.

    In WA,USA.

  • Reading this review made me very curious about this perfume house. Liking everything from ONE perfume house is quite a recommendation. I don’t think it is represented in Denmark, where I live. I just love energizing and zesty citrus’s, but also the deep terrains of oud. So it’s a hard choice. But if I were to win, I’d love the Incense Old. Tammy’s description just made it sound devine. I like description “graceful and elegant”. I don’t have a favourite Nicolai-perfume. But I sure would like to get to know their perfumes.

  • Incense Oud sounds very good: flowers, liqueur, and oud.I would like to win it.
    I never tried a Nicolaï Parfumeur-Créateur fragrance.
    I live in the E.U.
    Thank you.

  • I love the work of M.me de Nicolaï for a long time, in the trio presented in the article the most attractive to me is Incense Oud, I ever love the oud but this one is very seductive with its floral notes and the boozy, liqueur-like effect of the davana.
    Between Nicolai creations my favorite one is New York.
    I live in EU.
    Thanks!

  • I would love to have been in Paris and see the boutique. I live in Canada and it’s difficult to find Nicolai perfumes. I did once have a bottle of New York a friend sent me. I think I would try the Incense Oud bare in the beautiful description

  • Breathingmybelovedin says:

    “Ouded out” – indeed! I would go with L’eau mixte, I enjoyed the concept of a summery opening that gradually develops into a deeper, warmer heart that brings forth the essence of autumn. I live in Israel.

  • The description of the Incense Oud above has me wanting that one and that would be my choice for the draw. A favorite of mine from the house is New York. US

  • I had Number One, it was a perfect tuberose. I love gigs so I would definitely choose the Fig Tea, “warm and polished”… thank you!!! I live in Slovakia

  • Wonderful review, all of them. And I very like the paintings also. I have never tried any of Parfums de Nicolaï fragrance yet. If I would win, my choice is Fig Tea. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • I’ve never smelled anything from this line, there are a few I plan on sampling next time I order with Luckyscent. That is good to know that there wasn’t a single fragrance Tammy wouldn’t enjoy. I find that rare with most lines I have sampled. Patricia’s salon is beautiful. If I should be chosen, I would like the Oud. I typically don’t care for oud, but Tammy’s description makes me feel like I should give it another go. Thanks for the read!

  • The description of a shop I will realistically never get to see in person son was my favorite part.
    As a creator of incense, myself, I would love to try the Incense Oud. I’m always fascinated by perfumers’ concepts of incense.

    I’m in the US

  • I adore the summery feel of Week-end in Deauville and so far that’s been my favorite Parfums de Nicolaï. As well as the review makes the whole-lemon aspect of Eau Mixte sounds appealing, fall is for figs and Fig Tea would be my first choice from the selections offered.

    Yay for expert women perfumers like Madame de Nicolaï making their impressive mark in an absurdly male-dominated business!

    I’m in the USA, thank you.

  • All three sound intriguing. Although, I think the review for Incense Oud stands out. “An olfactive jewel” is a pretty big statement! I would like to win it. I live in the US.

  • Thank you, Tammy for short, but very informative reviews. I’ve sampled L’ Eau Mixte and it was interesting for me to compare my impressions with famous reviewer’s discritions. I like L’ Eau Mixte very much- so happy and sunny perfume for summer and early autumn. Same about my lovely Cedrat Intense. New York is masterpiece, but not my cup of tea.
    I doubted whether it was worth it to choose Incense Oud- I thought that this perfume wouldn’t be comfortable for wear (too much animalic), but after Tammy review- I would like to win Incense Oud.
    From Armenia

  • What a treat to visit a house that you adore and to love everything you sample! I had no idea that she is from perfume royalty… Amazing! I love reading about stories like this. All 3 sounds wonderful, but of the 3, Incense Oud is the one that intrigues me the most – I would be interested in winning that one. I have actually never tried Nicolaï before, so I can’t comment on my favorite. I live in the USA. Thanks so much

  • Never had the opportunity to try a Parfums de Nicolaï fragrance and of course would love to! I’m a sucker for the Incense Oud, The way this has been ‘teased’ out sounds amazing and a boozy effect? Intriguing.Thanks for a great and informative review tammy, I’m in NZ and another thanks for a generous worldwide draw.

  • Choices, choices, they all sound so lovely! My first choice would be Incense Oud, but L’ Eau Mixte is a close second. Who wouldn’t want to get “dizzy with delight”. I;m in the USA, thank you!

  • I’ve been a huge fan of Parfums de Nicolai since sampling a few bottles at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn. My personal favorite is Cuir Cuba Intense. All three of these scents sound fantastic. I adore grapefruit scents so Eau Mixte would definitely be my pick over Incense Oud!

    I’m in the USA. Thank you!

  • I find the comments written about Incense Oud kind of funny! I roll my eyes with a smile when thinking of the yen-yang aspects of the oud scent. Love and hate of this interesting note. I would love to try this Incense Oud!
    This being an olfactive jewel it truly is! I do live in Southern Illinois. And thank you for this draw…

  • L’eau sounds like a lovely bridge between summer and autumn, I have many citrus fragrances but none that have a cinnamon note, so this is the fragrance I would choose. I recently purchased a decant of Fig Tea, which is lovely. I live in the US, thank you!

  • Thank you for this giveaway. All 3 fragrances sound interesting.
    I will prob go with Incense Oud. It sounds like an Oud I would enjoy
    Haven’t tried any of these before. From Bay Area California
    Thanks
    Peace

  • I am such a fan of Nicolai that I had to chime in! There are too many goodies to choose from, but I enjoy Sacrebleu Intense in the winter and Violette in Love in the summer. This review was great because of the suggestions for fall.
    Also, it’s true that visiting their boutique in Paris is a pleasure and they are happy to let you try everything!
    Right now I eould love some Fig Tea. I am in the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • Thank you all so much for the wonderful comments! I am so honored to introduce one of my all time favorite houses to many of you, and also glad to see her many admirers pay tribute to Mme de Nicolai’s talent!

  • I would love to receive that bottle of L’Eau miXte in Germany. I just know 3 of Nicolaï. out of which I found New York Intense most interesting, yet a bit to classical.

  • I am always excited to read reviews by a writer who is passionate about a fragrance line. I felt Tammy’s enthusiasm and love for the fragrances reviewed. It was also a joy to read the comments from such enthusiastic fans. I’be only tried New York from this line. It made me feel so confident and assured. I totally get the association with the world’s greatest city.
    I’d like to try Incense Oud. I like oud and am curious to see what Mme de Nicolaï has created.
    I live in the USA.

  • I live in Romania (EU), I haven’t tried anything from the house and, should I win, I would pick Fig Tea.

    I’d choose that ne because I love osmanthus, but it’s hard to find a masculine take on the flower. From th review, it seems that the tea is smoky (black tea), so it might just be perfect for me! 🙂

    Thank you for the giveaway.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for the review. Incense Oud is impressive & is my choice to win as incense & oud are my favorite notes. I have only Patchouli Intense from the house of Parfums de Nicola which I adore. Thanks for the draw. Pakistanï

  • I do admire many of the Nicolai line. I do have Eclipse, which is DC. The description of Fig Tea being a goto with the fickle weather,caught my interest. That would be my choice. 🙂 I am also glad Nicolai overs small travel sprays, too

  • What I loved in these reviews is the fact that they are well written, detailed with short descriptions but with such beauty within their words.
    I almost felt in love with Incense Oud because of its elegant, novel facets of oud, the floral elements:
    “The beautiful floral notes in particular and the boozy, liqueur-like effect of the davana made Tammy dizzy with delight.  It smells magnificent in any season, at any time of day, on any occasion. It is an olfactive jewel….”
    I haven’t yet experienced any perfume from the Nicolai perfume house.
    I live in EU.

  • What an interesting mixture of scents and flavors. If I won, I’d love the L’eau miXte. I love the lemon in it especially. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • I have a sample of Incense Oud, and I fully agree that it is absolutely amazing scent. I have try also the Oud Sublime which are one of the best Oud I’ve ever smelled, but Incense Oud is close enough. I also admire Patricia’s work and I fully agree that she is the First Lady of Niche Perfumery. So my choice is clear – it’s Incense Oud. I live in Poland.