Jean Christophe Herault

In 2014, Thierry Mugler released five fragrances, Les Exceptions Oriental Express, Chyprissime, Fougère Furieuse, Supra Floral, and Over the Musk. As the names may suggest, each fragrance pays respect to a particular classic genre of perfume: Oriental, chypre, fougere, musk and floral and were composed by Olivier Polge and Jean Christophe Herault. This year, as homage to leather, Cuir Impertinent debuted signed by Jean Christophe Herault.

“Disruptive, Addictive, Unexpected. Bringing a new olfactory experience to fragrance. The smokiness of tanned leather meets the unexpected explosion of star anise to create a unique scent. Perfume yourself with bold, brazen sensuality”. – via Thierry Mugler USA Website

Mugler Les Exceptions Cuir Impertinent

Cuir Impertinent is a simply constructed scent made from star anise, tobacco, amber and leather.  The whole is greater than the sum of the parts and a few notes have come together to create a big perfume.  The tobacco here is the big leaf variety, best suited for a Cuban stogie, and the leather is the kind of fine-grain black leather one usually encounters in board rooms and wrapped around the back seats of expensive, foreign cars.  The star anise isn’t overpowering– you’re not suddenly huffing fresh black licorice.  Instead, it makes the tobacco note feel as it it’s been lit already, and perhaps a little ash has already gathered at the end of your imported goods. 

VALENTINA ZELYAEVA BY DAVID BURTON FOR ELLE RUSSIA

The amber note is subtle, and hovers underneath all of the other drier notes to impart just a slight hit of smoky, caramelized sweetness.  I’m glad the amber is present in this scent, as it makes Cuir Impertinent an excellent choice for woman. The best aspect of Cuir Impertinent is how rich each note is in this fragrance is rich, there’s nothing cheap or synthetic smelling in Thierry Mugler Les Exceptions Cuir Impertinent.  

Mark Cuban, Daymond John, Kevin O’Leary, Barbara Corcoran and Robert Herjavec of Shark Tank (ABC/RICHARD CARTWRIGHT)

This is without question a scent for those who expect the best in everything, crave power and devote a great deal of their time in acquiring it.  If you want to smell like a mogul, buy this blind.   The star anise in the top notes when blending into the tobacco in the heart again create a bone dry, almost sour tang in this scent that is reminiscent of long rambles out in the marshy back forty or a deep forest preserve rather than a smoky, crowded bar in Manhattan.  There’s a pensive, thoughtful feel to the traditionally masculine touchstones in this fragrance – this perfume isn’t an aggressive, blast of leather and rubber like Bulgari Black and not as Viva! La Revolucion! as Nicolai’s Cuir Cuba Intense.  

Usher smoking a cigar (tailoredash.com)

This is a fragrance for a man or woman who’s done climbing the ladder of success and has reached the top.   Nothing to prove; quiet elegance and good taste has become their legacy. But lest you think this is a fragrance for a CEO Emeritus, Cuir Impertinent has the power and sillage of a scent 30 years younger.  This may be a thoughtful, pensive scent but you will listen raptly to every single thing it decides it wants to say. 

 

Clark Gable as Rhett Butler Gone With The Wind

For those of you who have run the gauntlet of the Thierry Mugler line and its vast universe of Angel, Alien, Womanity  and A-Men spinoffs, Cuir Impertinent is your reward.  Cuir Impertinent is impertinent in the best possible way: because nothing is more in your face than outlasting your competition and living incredibly well.

Pam Barr, Senior Contributor

Notes:  star anise, tobacco, leather, and amber

Disclosure:  I received my sample from Thierry Mugler USA

All Thierry Mugler Les Exceptions are 80 ml/$225 and can be engraved and are refillable

art direction: MC

Thanks to Thierry Mugler USA we have a draw of a discovery kit of five  Les Exceptions for a registered reader in the USA (you need to do this and use your registered name).  To be eligible, leave a comment with your favorite Thierry Mugler perfume, what you enjoyed about Pam’s review and which five Les Exception samples (includes Cuir Impertinent) you would like to win. Draw closes October 11, 2015.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.