Kristian Hilberg (instagram) We love a man who brings his raw materials to the table
It was difficult to miss Kristian Hilberg at Esxence this past March, with his striking resemblance to the superheroThor and his in depth knowledge of raw materials. He is the founder of the new and the first Norwegian perfume brand, Malbrum (a play on the French “Mal” –bad and “brum”- mist or fog). Kristian introduced three inaugural extrait de parfums in Milan; all have evocative names- Psychotrope , Shameless Seducer and Tigre du Bengale.
Perfumer Delphine Thierry
Kristian engaged French perfumer Delphine Thierry as his perfume partner and nose for Malbrum and has retained her prowess for his forthcoming releases. Mme Thierry is based in the Grasse area and has a collection of noteworthy scents under her belt including the tobacco laden Montecristo from Masque Milano and the evocative Terralba from the same line. The sense I get from her compositions is that Mme Thierry creates perfumes that have both classical and contemporary elements, always with a sense of restraint. They are not big blockbuster numbers. They have a quiet sensuality and sensibility.
Malbrum Perfumes Volume 1
Malbrum’s packaging and branding is special. There is a nod to French heritage with the flacons’ bulb atomisers retro styling. The bottles are housed in “tomes” and the naming of the scents add to the brands allure. Malbrum differs from other houses, as Kristian is transaparent about his raw materials, listing the synthetics in the perfumes on the website. If you’re a chemist or molecule junkie and like to know exactly what you’re sniffing – let it be known that Toscanol, Safranal, Nimberol, Ambrofix and Suederal are the synthetics utilised in Tigre de Bengale. You will also find juniper, cardamom, myrrh, labdanum, castoreum and burley tobacco. I urge you not to get caught up in the note list because the whole is so much greater than the sum of the ingredients (much of which I had to Google).
“The Bengal tiger uses its claws to barkstrip trees and urinates on the pile of woodchips as a monument of territory. The scent of this tribute transmits highly complex messages to other tigers about its sex, size and social status.” -Malbrum
Max Slevogt Tiger in the Jungle, 1917
The “marking of the territory” and National Geographic like copy might turn you off, and points to a “skank” monster not to what is a highly wearable and well constructed scent. Think of the tiger purring with a sexy pout rather than one peeing in the jungle. It won’t dismember you with its bite, but will play with you in its paws. Tigre du Bengale has presence and potency as it toys with its prey.
Jean-Léon Gérôme Tiger on the Watch
There’s an arid feel throughout. This tiger is spiced up from the start with a coca cola accord and a sprinkling of cardamom, Saffranol and juniper that lights up the sky eastward bound. It’s full of promise and struts around confidently in its own territory. A licorice accord is noted but doesn’t dominate. It’s suitably subtle but adds an edge. I smell a burnt popcorn accord that I happen to enjoy.
Eugene Delacroix Etude de deux Tigres
MalbrumTigre du Bengale has a smoky vibe that adds to its appeal. Although I’m not a smoker and have never been, I’m drawn to tobacco perfumes and this one is especially lovely with a hint of sweetness. Myrrh and labdanum lend an oriental flair that wraps the scent in a sumptuous and smooth coat. The leathered amber base lends a rounded finish to the base. Malbrum Tigre du Bengale is my personal favourite of the inaugural trio and is an excellent introduction to the Malbrum line. Kris is designing interesting, modern scents with a French sensibility and a Nordic twist. Tigre de Bengale is a well-crafted creation that by turns struts, scratches and pounces. In the jungle the mighty jungle, the tiger purrs tonight.
Disclosure: Samples gratefully received from Malbrum. Opinions my own.
Megan Paki, Editor and Editor of Megan In Sainte Maxime
Editor’s Note: In the USA, you can find Malbrum at Twisted Lily Boutique in Brooklyn. Alas, you have to go to Norway or Grasse to meet Kris; or you can follow him on instagram @malbrum. Art direction and contributions from Michelyn
Thanks to the generosity of Kristian Hilberg we have a worldwide draw: A 30 ml flacon of Malbrum Tigre du Bengale for a registered reader (please don’t forget to register or your comment is ineligble). Please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Megan’s review, where you live and if you like your perfume to roar or purr. Draw closes August 6, 2015.
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