Heather Kaufman of Jolie Laide
Heather Kaufmann of San Fransico’s Jolie Laide (a French expression which refers to an unconventional beauty literally means “pretty ugly” or “ugly pretty”) uses this clever turn of phrase to describe the raw materials used in the line: “our perfume combines natural scents that are both luscious and odd, coming together in a way that allows each individual to explore their complexities within.” Jolie Laide manages a collection which is inherently unisex, not by it’s use of generic aromas, but instead by the interplay of flora and fauna, masculine and feminine in the same construct. A student of Mandy Aftel, Heather has both the technical education and fine nose for creating expressive natural perfumes with names and stories which would honor her mentor.
Bande À Part Movie Poster 1964
The latest offering from Jolie Laide is Bande À Part, from the French faire bande a part or to do something away from the rest – in short, a rebel. Perhaps the best example of the perfume Bande À Part is the eponymous French New Wave film from Jean-Luc Godard (called Band of Outsiders in North America and adapted from Dolores Hitchens novel, Fools Gold.) Perhaps the most famous scene in the movie is the Madison dance scene, inspiring many further films including Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Fiction.)
Famous Madison dance scene Sami Frey, Anna Karina,and Claude Brasseur in Jean-Luc Godard’s Band of Outsiders
Keeping to the theme of “romance, rebellion and seeking adventure”, Bande À Part is both animalic and floral- a musky adventure into the moment when a good girl goes bad. Opening with musk soaked osmanthus, Bande À Part is 1960’s refinement and a feral blend of both animal and vegetal musks from African stone (hyrax), ambrette and agarwood.
Anna Karina Bande À Part
Heather works with each in a manner which does not allow even the agarwood to overwhelm the formula, nor allow our good girl to be so bold as to trade in her pinafore for a leather jacket. The usual apricot note of osmanthus is a powered version of itself, and serves to diffuse and flower the animal of base notes.
Scene from Bande À Part..Anna Karina was Jean-Luc Godard’s muse and later his wife
The result is a vintage-esque floral which seems to be fossilized within the African stone, a heady and incredibly long lasting aroma, giving off heat and a sense of danger which could as easily define the good boy gone bad. Both bold and somehow classic, Bande À Part sets apart even the most refined as still waters are running perilously deep.
Notes: agarwood, African stone, osmanthus, ambrette seed, botanical musk
–Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor
(my sample was provided by Jolie Laide for review, opionions my own)
Thanks to Jolie Laide we have a 15 ml bottle of Band a Part for a US registered reader. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Einsof’s review and if you have a favorite French New Wave Cinema film that would be a good name for a perfume. Draw closes August 9, 2015
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