Etat Libre d’Orange (ELDO) has been releasing intriguing perfumes with provocative names since their inception nearly ten years ago. Etienne de Swardt launched the brand with an edgy often risque sensibility. He clearly has a talent, not only for curating a line of offbeat fumes, but also for marketing. He has succeeded in creating a real buzz in the crowded niche marketplace with an outrageous and uncovential image, and there’s nothing quite like it. Etat Libre d’Orange has one much talked about fragrance, the modern masterpiece Sécrétions Magnifiques (Antonie Lie) that still pulses electric shocks of terror through those less intrepid travelers. We met up with Etienne at Esxence in March where he debuted his latest fragrance, Remarkable People.
Etienne de Swardt and Mane Perfumer Cecile Matton Polge
Remarkable People, the latest release is a reworking of Joséphine Baker, a perfume Etat Libre d’Orange made for Sephora, but no longer available. The perfumer is Cecile Matton Polge (one of the noses behind Bonbon for Viktor & Rolf).
Champagne Bottle Chilling on ice: Jospehine Baker with author George Simenon at La Coupule Paris, 1925 in honor of his novel an Act of Passion (she was his onetime paramour)
Referencing the link between Remarkable People and Joséphine Baker, Etienne de Swardt says: “Remarkable People is another ‘mash-up,’ like True Lust; we have combined formulas from Josephine Baker with a fragrance we developed which was never released. I have worked with my sister in the evaluation and I presume we have a good joyful scent inspired from past days of glory and "insouciance" with pink champagne on ice. "C'est une construction joyeuse", positive, the art of celebration and seduction. Very much needed when reading the daily news ! Cecile Matton is roughly 60 % of the bouquet if you want the numbers.The code name internally was "happy therapy"!
Yayoi Kusama
The marketing material talks about “the “un” people – uncompromising, unexpected, unconventional, unpredictable. We salute them, we honour them, by offering the extraordinary fragrance they deserve.” I have to agree with Etienne, that this is one of those happy, smiley face perfumes. It is not overly complicated and smells good enough to eat.
Yayoi Kusama, Pumpkin Chess Set 2003
Remarkable People has been not only a fun wear but also seems to lift my mood on each spray. It opens with a fizzy champagne accord doused in grapefruit that sparkles and shines with a hint of fun to come. Cardamon has a starring role and that suits me just fine. It lends a delicious spiciness that provides a contrast with what has gone before. There's a touch of gourmand yumminess, reminiscent of that sugary stickiness on fingers when a lolly is unwrapped and popped in one’s mouth. You have the remnants of the sugar but not the full blown effect.
Flowers (1) by Yayoi Kusama
. Listed in the notes is curry JE – Mane’s Jungle Essence extraction that apparently captures the true rendition of the original product’s aroma. Well don’t let this addition put you off. I can only detect a faint curried effect; this is certainly no Vindaloo by any means. It merely adds to the laid back spiciness, although a sweetness is still detectable. The oriental styled base has a feel good vibe and settles nicely. There’s labdanum, sandalwood and lorenox, which is an accord developed by Mane that can be woody, ambery, leathery and aromatic. It’s definitely woody in the dry down with light amber and a twist of leather but nothing too overt, it’s not one of those chemical wood based horrors that smells like there’s a bonfire on my skin.
The Obliteration Room, envisioned by Yayoi Kusama
Remarkable People is an easy to wear, warm and comforting perfume. It has a smooth, rounded texture with a sweetness that reminds me a little of La Fin du Monde in that this is a deliciousness that works. It's not too overpowering and makes you want to come back for more. This perfume doesn't take itself too seriously, there’s a sense of dottiness and playfulness in true Yayoi Kusama style. Sometimes you can have a little fun with your perfume and smell great at the same time.
Megan Paki, Senior Contributor, ÇaFleureBon and Editor of meganinsaintemaxime.com
Disclosure : I received samples from Etat Libre d’Orange
Yayoi Kusama
Megan chose a remarkable person Yayoi Kusama, a 86 year old Japanese multi media artist and writer known for her avant garde work. Her art can be found on art.net. My reimaged photo of Josephine Baker was the orignal I found via ourmaninparis.tumblr.com
Thanks to Etat Libre D’Orange wehave a 100ml bottle of Remarkable People for draw. To be eligible you must be a registered CaFleureBon reader, and leave a comment with why you would want to win, where you live, your favorite Etat LibreD’Orange perfume and a remarkable person. USA, CANADA and EU readers. Draw closes May 22, 2015
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