New Perfume Review: DSH Perfumes La Belle Saison (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) + My Lilac Wine Draw

Dawn-Spencer-Hurwitz-cafleurebon white lilacs

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz:  Her nose buried in lilacs

The first perfumer that I visited upon walking into the San Francisco Artisan Fragrance Salon on March 5 was Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. I was overwhelmed; this was my first event associated with CaFleureBon; there were so many perfumers to meet and the weather… so blustery and wet. I completely forgot about all of this the instant Dawn mentioned her new 100% natural lilac composition La Belle Saison.

Lilac Bush - Vincent van Gogh

Lilac Bush – Vincent van Gogh 1889

Lilac is one of the strongest floral scent memories of my childhood. I practically lived in the giant light purple lilac bush outside of our house every spring when it was in bloom. With spring just around the corner here I could feel that lilac’s time was upon us. I had been stopping by all of the local florists that week to see if there were any to bring home but each time I was “too early”. So when Dawn held up the beautiful French cut glass bottle I practically dove right in.

Manet,_Edouard_-_Lilacs_In_A_Vase,_c.1882

Édouard Manet, Lilacs In A Vase, c.1882

Lilac doesn’t give up its sweet green indolic scent easily. It is not available as a raw material to the natural perfumer it is one that must be built up masterfully little by little using other botanicals to mimic the fragrance.

Nina Simone - Lilac Wine

Nina Simone's Cover of James Shelton's My Lilac Wine from Wild is the Wind 1966

Syringa_vulgaris_Sturm2

Syringa vulgaris vol. 10 – plate 02 in: Jacob Sturm: Deutschlands Flora in Abbildungen (1796)

The most successful perfumes based upon lilac that I have smelled were not all natural perfumes. En Passant by Olivia Giacobetti for Frederic Malle and French Lilac by Pacifica were two that I sought out when I was familiarizing myself with the construction of lilac in perfumery, they are both fairly realistic and both beautiful in their own right despite containing little to no actual lilac whatsoever. But could this be done in a natural?

That Overgrown Lilac Bush, Bonny Eberly

"That Overgrown Lilac Bush" on porcelain tile by jewelry and porcelain artist, Bonny Eberly

La Belle Saison opens with fresh green and uplifting notes of cucumber, bergamot, and anise before gradually evolving into a sweet yet ever so slightly skanky soft floral heart containing neroli, jasmine grandiflorum, and Bulgarian rose wrapped in subtle spices. The composition is all held together with base notes of ambrette, vetiver and beeswax absolute. I get the fullest sense of lilac at the opening when all aspects of the perfume are blossoming at once on the skin which makes sense for a floral as ephemeral as lilac.

Lilacs in a window Mary Cassatt

Mary Cassatt Lilacs in A Window (Vas de Lilas) Date: ca. 1880–83 Oil on canvas

As Dawn states "La Belle Saison is “less a photographic ‘portrait’ of lilacs but rather like a painting that expresses the feeling as well as the scent of lilac, of Spring’s freshness, and incorporates the nuances of other blossoming beauties that are releasing their fragrance nearby”.

Girl with Lilacs by Achille Beltrame

Girl with Lilacs by Achille Beltrame 

This isn’t a lilac soliflore so don’t expect a one note bouquet of tiny blossoms; instead allow it to conjure lilacs in bloom that you have dreamt about throughout the winter. Lilacs in a gorgeous bouquet of accompanying soft florals with an incredibly sophisticated “skin scent” light musky dry down.

The raw materials for La Belle Saison are costly, difficult to source and rare, and the perfume is being offered as a signed and numbered limited edition to start. They are available in Extrait 10 ml Antique French presentations / 30 pieces (retail price: $330) ; Extrait 5 ml Antique French presentations / 50 pieces (retail price: $130).

Notes include: Cucumber, bergamot, anise, neroli, jasmine grandiflorum, Bulgarian rose, spice, ambrette, beeswax absolute, acacia honey, vetiver.

Disclosure: I received my sample of La Belle Saison from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, opinions my own.

Zee Boudreaux, Natural Perfume  Contributor

A Pathway in Monet's Garden at Giverny

A Pathway in Monet's Garden at Giverny

Editor’s Note: Dawn  created olfactive paintings for her collaboration with the Denver Art Museum entitled In Bloom: Painting Flowers in the Age of Impressionism which debuted July 19, 2015.  The series of scents is entitled Giverny in Bloom (Giverny in Bloom, Le Jardin Vert, La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes,  and Les Opera des Rouges et des Roses) reviewed here by Aaron Potterman. The artistry of these impressionist perfumes is one of the reasons why Dawn was awarded CaFleureBon Best Perfumer 2015

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes we have a draw as follows for two registered readers

Worldwide a sample vial of La Belle Saison (this is valued at $23)

Dsh perfumes La Belle Saison bottle

US: one of the 5 ml extrait in limited edition flacon

To be eligible, leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Zee’s review, where you live, if you have memories of lilacs or a favorite DSH Perfume. Draw closes March 17, 2016

We announce the winners only on site and our Facebook page, so like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will just be spilled perfume

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30 comments

  • Oh lilac! I was excited when I saw the post on the release a few days ago but thought I’d never have a chance to smell such a limited edition – I’d really love to have a chance to try this scent! Like Zee, I’m curious about what an all-natural lilac perfume might smell like. I love anise and ambrette, too, so I think it must be very lovely. The art direction for this piece is just perfect too. I’m ready for spring now!

  • baroness_octothorpe says:

    Lilacs — just thinking about them reminds me of Boston Arboretum’s Annual Lilac Sunday (it’s on May 8 this year). I now live in California, and we don’t get so many lilacs, so I’d love to have a scent version!

    I’m in the US — thanks for the draw!

  • I really liked how she said it is like painting that expresses the feeling of lilacs. I always love when lilacs bloom in the spring they are so beautiful. I live in the US thanks!

  • I love the idea of anise in a floral scent. I tend to associate it with gourmands. I could really use a scent that conjures the “freshness” of spring. Sounds absolutely lovely. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • fazalcheema says:

    I didn’t know Lilac cannot be extracted and it has to be developed with the help of other materials. In this regard, it is just like lily of the valley flower. When I started reading this article, en passant was the first lilac perfume that came to mind and DSH, indeed, mentions it as one of the best lilac perfumes she has smelled. My favorite DSH creation is Three Kings. I am in the US.

  • MikasMinion says:

    I’m very interested to sample a perfume focused on the feeling of lilac while not being a Soliflore lilac. I haven’t tried any DSH perfumes but my favorite lilac perfumes are both mentioned, En Passant and French Lilac. I can’t smell lilacs where I live but I always loved smelling them when visiting my aunt when I was a kid.
    I’m in the US. Thank you for this very generous draw!

  • I grew up where it was too hot for lilacs to flourish but I have come to love the smell anyway. And anything from DSH is almost certainly a winner for me! I just finished sampling the last year’s impressionistic offerings that Dawn did for the Denver museum; two of the four are must haves for me! I would love to see the DSH interpretation of lilac. Thanks to Dawn for such a generous draw. I’m in the USA.

  • Lilac is indeed love! and La Belle Saison is a perfect celebration of spring scent. Whoever wins this draw will be celebrating for sure! It is such a true classic beauty this one.

  • It’s incredible that Dawn can create a lilac perfume using no synth ingredients. I really liked howZee talked about growing up with a lilac bush that was his strong scent memory. The art was beautiful especially the Mary Cassett lilac in a vase and I love Nina Simone
    My favorite DSH is Fleurs d Oranger and Mata Hari. I live in the USA

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Sounds great! I love the passage “Lilacs in a gorgeous bouquet of accompanying soft florals with an incredibly sophisticated “skin scent” light musky dry down.” I want spring to come finally! I live in the EU, Austria. Thanks for the draw.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Sounds like a wonderful scent! Love the idea of the scent not being 100% photorealistic but instead “conjuring lilacs in bloom [I’ve] dreamt about all winter.” I definitely have this big beautiful wet green floral scent image in my mind that I can’t wait to explode in the coming spring months! Love lilacs and DSH. I went to undergrad at a school that had this lilac grove with at least 20 separate bushes. I’d never really smelled them before in a recognizable and concentrated fashion until the first spring I was there. Use to wander around the grove smelling the different varietals–some smelled like almost, others more like marzipan and cherry, some like roses and hyacinths almost, and some really spicy. I really enjoyed smelling the differences! I’m in the US.

  • Like Zee, my childhood home had a big lilac bush that perfumed the yard when it was in bloom. We also used to suck the nectar out of the little flowers. I own both En Passant and French Lilac but always can use another lilac scent. My favorite DSH perfume is Oeillets Rouge, such a beautiful carnation scent. I’d love to own another of Dawn’s works. Thanks for the draw and I’m in the US.

  • Diana Devlin says:

    I never realized that lilac is not a single note and cannot be obtained – “Lilac doesn’t give up its sweet green indolic scent easily. It is not available as a raw material to the natural perfumer it is one that must be built up masterfully little by little using other botanicals to mimic the fragrance.” I love lilac fragrances but never realized the complexity of creating the scent.
    Thank you for the draw.
    I live in the U.S.

  • I live in the US. I love lilacs, they are my current favorite floral scent. As a child, we planted lilacs at every home we lived in. I like that this review makes it clear this fragrance is not a soft lilac scent, but complex and powerful. I think I would really enjoy Bermuda Lyme from DSH Perfumes. Thank you!

  • I love lilacs. I used to pass by a path lined with lilacs on my walk to and from school, and that was the best part 🙂 I didn’t realize that lilac was a note that perfumers had to build up in pieces, since there is no such thing as a lilac absolute. I haven’t tried any other perfumes for DSH perfumes. I am in the US, thank you!

  • I have 2 kinds of lilac bushes outside my backdoor and they are always bursting into bloom around my birthday in mid April so the association with spring and celebration as well as beauty come to mind. Speaking of beauty, I found Zee’s words and the pairing of artwork very beautiful. I played the video at the end of the review. The perfect ending…
    I haven’t had the opportunity to try DSH perfumes yet.
    I live in the US.

  • I liked very much Zee’s review especially where it mentions:
    “This isn’t a lilac soliflore so don’t expect a one note bouquet of tiny blossoms; instead allow it to conjure lilacs in bloom that you have dreamt about throughout the winter. Lilacs in a gorgeous bouquet of accompanying soft florals with an incredibly sophisticated “skin scent” light musky dry down.”
    Well this is the outcome that I want a perfume with lilacs to have!
    A bouqouet of lilacs with a light musky dry down!
    I have no particular memories from lilacs only the fact that I love them since they herald spring time and I love spring time too.
    I haven’t tried any DSH perfumes yet.
    I am a registered reader living in EU, Greece.
    Thank you for this review and draw as well.

  • The paintings by Manet and Cassat are inspirational for me. I am taking an oil painting class and I think I will take it upon myself to paint some lilacs if I can get some proper purple pigment… I think dioxazine violet. I also appreciated the inclusion of Nina Simone’s “Lilac Wine” for a truly multimedia review. I do not have the beautiful lilac memories that Zee has, but the individual facets of the scent touch on so many scent memories: fresh sliced cucumber, bergamot in earl grey, thrifted beeswax candles, farmer’s market honey, the hint of jasmine in my mother’s perfume. I’d love to try La Belle Saison. The description of the opening, blooming at all angles, sounds positively ethereal. I have not tried DSH perfumes, which is almost criminal at this point. I am in the US, thank you for the draw.

  • Lilac notes are fascinating to me! I just learned that lilac notes are not single notes, but comprises many other notes. I also love light skin scents.

    The paintings chosen for this review are beyond gorgeous! How lucky for Zee to have grown up near a lilac bush and that this scent is still part of her childhood memory.

    I have had the pleasure to try a few perfumes by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz who is a fragrance genius.

    I live in the USA. Thank you!

  • I live in NYC and can’t say I have any memories of actual lilacs. The lilacs of my memories are the ones painted by Monet. When I think of lilacs I see his paintings. I do however like the scent of lilacs in perfumes. The two I am most familiar with and love are the two Zee mentioned in the review, En Passant and French Lilac. DHS’s La Belle Sasion sounds just as beautiful and I would love to try it. Thank you for the chance.

  • This is a great opportunity to smell an all natural lilac and I’m intrigued! I love lilacs and it’s the perfect way to start off Spring! I live n the US and thanks for the opportunity! 🙂

  • Really liked the pictures chosen for this review. The oldest perfume memories I have about lilac are from Yves Rocher Pour desir de lila – lovely cologne. I live in Romania (Europe).

  • Great review! I really got a feel of how the fragrance smells and changes. I haven’t tried a scent from DSH but I’ve heard a lot. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • I loved this part of the review: “This isn’t a lilac soliflore so don’t expect a one note bouquet of tiny blossoms; instead allow it to conjure lilacs in bloom that you have dreamt about throughout the winter.”.

    I am a reader from the EU.

    Thank you Wish you all the best!

  • I enjoyed Zee’s review and appreciate that if, with her lilac scent memory, she says La Belle Saison is a realistic interpretation then I’m sure it is. I live in the US and my favorite DSH Perfume is Fleuriste,

  • I love lilacs because it is so subtle and short-lived blossoms…. My favourite one is also En Passant, but I didn’t know there is no real lilac as ingredient. It seems it is impossible to get it as a raw material ? anyway, using others materials to recreate it it is art!
    I’m in Europe and I would like to receive a sample of this beauty.

  • I didn’t realize you can’t extract the scent of lilacs directly, and that it has to be conjured up using other ingredients. I guess that’s why I’ve never smelled one that perfectly captures that one week a year when lilacs are in bloom in the city park near my home. It happens in June, and those flowers combined with all the hot asphalt and other city smells is absolutely perfect. I wish I could bottle that because it was the first thing I smelled when I moved in, and so far things have been wonderful! The scent of pure happiness and home to me. I live in the US.

  • This sounds like another masterpiece by Dawn. I’m a huge fan of hers and have tried, and loved, countless scents from the house. Floral notes always make me happy and think of spring and summer.

    Thanks for the draw and I’m a Canadian reader.