New Perfume Review: D.S. & Durga White Peacock Lily (David Seth Moltz) 2016 + Chords and Accords Draw

David Seth moltz and Kari

David Seth Moltz and Kavi Durga

In early July 2016 David Seth Moltz of D. S. & Durga introduced a trio of new scents:  Radio Bombay, Rose Atlantic and White Peacock Lily. Each fragrance evokes a vignette – real or imagined – of a scene colored by time and recollection.  For me Rose Atlantic revisits the mid Atlantic coast in early summer, featuring sea spray and the fragrance of beach rose, a type of Rosa rugosa. While I have yet to visit India, Radio Bombay reminds me of the years I spent living in the Middle East and the pervading scent of heat, smoke, petrol and sandalwood. Of the three perfumes, I find White Peacock Lily to be the most evocative.  The name of the fragrance seems to have a direct association with the music of Charles Tomlinson Griffes.

White Peacock Roman Sketches Opus 7 by Charles Griffes

The White Peacock Sheet Music Griffes Op 7, Roman Sketches and  White Peacock Window of Bergdorf Goodman Holiday Display 2012 collage MC

I have been teaching piano for over forty years and playing for more than 60.  In my late teens I remember struggling with Griffes Op. 7, Roman Sketches, written for piano in 1915.  The first piece of this set, The White Peacock, was the most popular and subsequently scored for orchestra in 1919. A poem by William Sharp prefaces my copies of the 1917 edition for piano:

"Here where the sunlight

Floodeth the garden…

Where the oleanders

Dream through the noontides…

Where the heat lies

Pale blue in the hollows…

Moves the white peacock…

Deep in the heart of a sea of white violets…

Pale, pale as the breath of blue smoke in the far woodlands…"

I can't help but think that David Moltz is familiar with this piano piece or its orchestral arrangement and that Sharp's poem may have served as an inspiration for the fragrance.

jennifer lawrence by Tim Walker white peacock fashion

Jennifer Lawrence by Tim Walker  W magazine 2012

The D.S. & Durga website describes White Peacock Lily like this: "A lone peacock floats over cream lilies, oleander and a sea of alabaster violet.  Orchestral harps and horns drone.  Pale blue fog hangs in the far woodlands." My first impression of White Peacock Lily is mirrored in Griffes performance instructions, "Languidamente e molto rubato", languidly with free, expressive rhythm and tempo.  The perfumer's listed accords of oleander, cabreuva rouge, grapefruit pith, white lily cream, Egyptian jasmine, alabaster violet, liquid ambrette seed, vanilla and fog convey a sense of the same breathy, lush and weightless atmosphere that manifests in the smooth, legato chords and humid arpeggios of the music. 

Kate Moss Tim Walker 2012

Kate Moss in Rhododendron Bush, Houghton Hall, Norfolk, England, 2012, © Tim Walker

I am entranced by the waxen effect of white lily combined with powdery oleander, vanilla and a touch of grapefruit.  Over time the composition maintains a weightless, floating effect and creates a feeling of freedom via the freshness of cabreuva wood and the cool scent of white violet.  At about 30 minutes White Peacock Lily retreats to the skin and, after several hours, disappears into a mist of jasmine and musk.

Charles Tomlinson Griffes is considered to be an American Impressionist composer, influenced by the techniques and textures of the French.  I like to think of D.S & Durga as an American Impressionist perfume house with a modern global perspective creating wonderfully wearable, carefully crafted perfumes for all lovers of fine fragrance

Disclosure: I received my sample from Indigo Perfumery, thank you so very much; opinions my own

Gail Gross, Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn who continues her fascination with  British Fashion Photographer Tim Walker

white peacpck lily d s durga

Thanks to Indigo Perfumery we have a 50 ml bottle of White Peacock Lily for a registered reader (if you are not sure that you registered  click here) residing in the USA OR a sampler of Radio Bombay, Rose Atlantic and White Peacock Lily To be eligible for the draw, please leave a comment with what appeals to you about Gail's review,  if you want the sampler or the 50 ml  should you win and if you have a favorite D.S & Durga fragrance. Draw closes 8/13/2016

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

 

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18 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am intrigued because it is a creamy lily creation with floral and musky elements. It also has grapefruit which gives it a relatively fresh vibe. It is a coincidence the review contains Jennifer Lawrence picture because I was telling someone yesterday Lawrence is my crush in Hollywood. My choice will be 50ml bottle. thanks a lot for the generous draw. I am in the US.

  • ron payne says:

    Radio Bombay sounds just like my type of smoky, woody scent (and I love the smell of petrol). I’m in the US and would choose the sampler.

  • rin_nd says:

    To be honest I love the photo of the fluffy white dresses! But the notes of this sound like something I would like, maybe love. Not sure if I have tried DS Durga, except for a random spray at Barney’s. Would love the White Peacock Lily 50ml. Thank you for the draw.

  • KateC says:

    The Peacock Lily sounds lovely to me. I’m mad about lilies, and named my first daughter after them. This review was such a treat to read and I loved how the scent was woven into music. I have not tried a DS yet but would love to win the Peacock Lily (I’m in the US). Thanks for the lovely draw!

  • Richard Potter says:

    As a singer I have performed many of CT Griffes’ songs and I love his style of American Impressionism. White Peacock Lily is an intriguing name for a scent. I would love to try the sampler set. US.

  • jc says:

    I love it that that White Peacock Lily is inspired by music! I hope to win a bottle!! It sounds beautiful.

  • Lori L says:

    White Peacock Lily is inspired by music and has me mesmerized after reading this article! I have retreated to a place of Zen and I never want to return. It sounds great with all of its accords and especially the way it works itself to its crescendo with the jasmine and musk. If I were to win my choice would be White Peacock Lily. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Lellabelle says:

    A beautifully written review, and an impressively coherent interpretation of the music and the poem. Such beautiful imagery too! Would love to try this and experience for myself! Thanks for the draw. U.S. and my choice would be White Peacock Lily. Thanks!

  • sunmisun says:

    Gail, I love how you tie music and perfume together so beautifully. I like the idea of a floating, weightless floral and I’d love to try White Peacock Lily. Thanks so much for this draw, I’m in the US.

  • Patty P. says:

    Pretty cool you remembered a song called The White Peacock when you were given this assignment. I would like the bottle of White Peacock Lily should I win. USA 🙂

  • Cynthia says:

    I liked the music “White Peacock” and the evocative words that seem to describe the perfume. I would love to try the bottle of White Peacock Lily if I win USA

  • David says:

    Gail’s review has led me to discover “Roman Sketches.” I’d love to experience the languid notes of this perfume.
    I love D.S & Durga’s Burning Barbershop.
    I’d choose the bottle of White Peacock Lily. I live in the USA.

  • Steve A says:

    Radio Bombay has an inviting description to me. I love D.S. Durga’s Boston Ivy. So if chosen I’d pick the sample set to try three more. TY usa

  • Divaj27 says:

    I like that White Peacock Lily was inspired by music and poetry. And how he described the fragrance is beautiful. I would love to have the bottle but I will be ok with the sample to. I’m in the NYC area, Thank you

  • Claudia says:

    I find White Peacock Lily to be the most evocative certainly is a phrase that will get your attention. I am also a fan of fragrances that evoke white and weightlessness. Gorgeous art in this write up makes me want to try it that much more. I sounds lovely. I am already a fan of Siberian Snow and was able to sample the Rose Atlantic which is nicely done. I would love to be entered into this draw for 50 ml bottle of White Peacock Lily. Thank you so much for the generosity. DS & Durga have some very unique fragrances.

  • minteacup says:

    I was roped in by the descriptions of music and atmosphere tied in with the perfume impression. I was just thinking about how much I love grapefruit- and a ghostly, foggy spin on that has me feeling very covetous. I want to wear this perfume to a tea party. I’ve heard good things about this perfume line too, but haven’t tried any DS & Durham creations. I’d be thrilled to win the bottle. I’m in the US, thank you for the draw.