Francois Henin
Besides being one of the premier niche fragrance stores in Paris Jovoy might be better known for the fragrances they produce under the same name. I met the majordomo of Jovoy, Francois Henin, at the recent Elements Showcase in New York City. There is a great energy and excitement when you talk with M. Henin about niche perfume and Jovoy in particular. As we talked he told me to head over to their display and experience the two newest additions, Rouge Assassin and Les Jeux sont Faits. Both of these fragrances fall into what I call the neo-vintage category, but Jovoy Paris adds enough to both to keep these modern fragrances from feeling too “old”.
Coty Lipstick and Powder
Rouge Assassin falls into my made-up category I call “Grammy’s Purse”. My grandmother always had a tube, or two, or three of Coty lipstick and a compact of rose powder in her purse. It resolved into a distinct accord of the iris scent of the lipsticks mixed with the rose of the face powder. I loved this smell and I think many perfumers had someone in their family who also had a purse which contained the same ingredients. Perfumer Amelie Bourgeois's mix of iris, rose, and powder comprises her cosmetics accord but then it turns sweetly woody and any thought of make-up is swept away. Rouge Assassin opens with a focused turn of bergamot and elemi adding their slightly citric nature to the early moments. Then the iris, rose, and rice powder meld into a rich ultra-feminine accord. Here Rouge Assassin felt like it was going to go lightly musky and more floral, instead Mme Bourgeois takes a left turn and lets cedar remove the make-up and usher in sandalwood, vanilla, and tonka. This was a slow metamorphosis that caught me completely off-guard the first time I wore it. The second time I caught the transition and it is supernaturally smooth for such an abrupt shift. I really enjoyed the ride from scent memory to sweet woody finish. My only question is when will Jovoy release a matching lipstick?
If you played roulette in a French casino when the ball began to fall the croupier would be heard to say, “Les Jeux sont Faits” or all bets are off. Used more figuratively it has also been loosely translated to alternatively mean “The die is cast” or “The game is up.” What all of those phrases have in common is that an action has come to an end and now it is time to see the result. In the fragrance called Les Jeux sont Faits, perfumer Dorothee Piot, goes for a 50’s nightclub vibe full of smoke, booze, and actions which will have consequences. The beginning gambit comprises a bit of cologne-like briskness from angelica and petitgrain. Then the mix of cigarettes, rum, and gin get this fragrant party started. What really makes Les Jeux sont Faits is the use of cumin at this point as it evokes the shank of the evening with its slightly sweaty nature laid over vanilla, labdanum, and patchouli. It creates a very humid human accord which just leaves me wondering what the rest of the story will bring. In the case of Les Jeux sont Faits the dies is cast, the chips are placed, and the game is up; what happens next is to be determined.
Rouge Assassin and Les Jeux sont Faits have outstanding longevity. Rouge Assassin has moderate sillage and Les Jeux sont Faits has above average sillage.
These are a beautiful pair of neo-vintage fragrances for Jovoy and if you are a fan of lipstick or roulette you should definitely place a bet on red, lipstick that is.
Disclosure: This review was based on samples provided by Jovoy at the Elements Showcase.
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor