Recently, we brought to your attention a new perfumer who has been an apprentice to master perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Amber Jobin. Her perfume line, Aether Arts, has launched with three new perfumes: two drawn from her experiences at the annual Burning Man festival, and one inspired by her love of ozonic scents. I was delighted to receive her samples, and upon my first cursory sniffs, was impressed by the diversity represented by the three fragrances.

New Skool Reworkz by Martin Macias

One of my favorite aromas in the world is the smell of newly cut grass. I used to push the lawnmower for my grandpa as a little girl, partly for the soothing, clicking, swish of the rotating blades, and partly for that fresh smell rising up from my feet in the summertime heat. Burner Perfume #2: A Roll in the Grass opens with exactly that smell, bringing with it that particular memory. It also brings to mind lying in the grass and pulling the newest shoots carefully, so I could eat the soft pale green ends, looking at wandering beetles and listening to the buzz of bees and flies. Ms. Jobin created this perfume around the Burning Man theme of Rites of Passage, and included the complex, resinously green aroma of cannabis to represent the thrill of trying something new and a bit illicit. I’ve never been much of a pot-smoker myself, but thanks to a brief stint cleaning buds for a grower, I am well aware of the sticky scent of the weed, both fresh and dried. A Roll in the Grass definitely has a whiff of that complex aroma. As the perfume develops, it becomes warmer and more complex, with a touch of floral and herbal notes. I enjoyed wearing it, partly for the nice memories, and partly because it is a green fragrance that is not harsh, bitter, or just too screamingly green.

Notes: Cut-grass note, Mary Jane accord, basil, oregano, fir, galbanum, jasmine Sambac, rose, frankincense, patchouli, oakmoss

Air Elemental by Javi Ure

I was a little nervous about trying Aether Argent, because Ms. Jobin loves to work with ozonic and marine scents and those can be difficult for me. In an attempt to capture the upper stratosphere, Ms. Jobin has artfully combined a mixed mint accord with fir, herbs, exotic florals, and ozonic fruits on a green, slightly salty base. The mint accord is perfect; it creates a lovely fresh atmosphere and a sensation of breathing clear, high air.  As the fragrance develops, it radiates a scent of washed skin; slightly soapy with a hint of muskiness. This is a fragrance that, despite it’s rather ethereal quality, I would still apply sparingly. The aura created by a small amount is perfect, just giving a glimpse of the complex clarity of air. Aether Argent is part of the ongoing Aether Series, and I am looking forward to the next scent in the collection.

Notes: Mixed mint accord, coriander, Silver Fir needle, petitgrain, rosemary, Kenya lily, African violet, pear, watermelon, musk, frankincense, galbanum, seaweed absolute, Virginia cedar

Demeter by Ana Flores

Named after the Roman god of copulation, Burner Perfume #3: Inuus (pronounced in-oo-oos), was created around the Burning Man theme of Fertility. Ms. Jobin wanted to create a perfume representative of the divine spark necessary for creation, as well as eroticism. Inuus is the kind of scent I gravitate toward; spicy, animalic and resinous, with the lift of rich flowers and the warmth of benzoin and myrrh. Patchouli plays a big part in this perfume, and it is not the cleaned-up patchouli found in so many formulas. It’s a good, earthy, real patchouli that adds just the right amount of growl. There is a wantonness about this scent, a full-bellied feeling of satisfaction and fecundity. It is very sexy, never goes too sweet, and is appropriate for any gender. Well-done.

Notes: pimento berry, white pepper, paprika, bergamot, jasmine sambac, Moroccan rose absolute, neroli absolute, patchouli, guaiacwood, sandalwood, labdanum, benzoin, myrrh, castoreum, honey beeswax, sumac

Ms. Jobin and her Aether Arts Perfume collection is off to a great start. I am looking forward to what comes next. Perfumes are available on the Aether Arts website. Ms. Jobin provided my samples, and we have draw prizes available, thanks to the generosity of Ms. Jobin.

For Our US Readers: Your Choice of 5.5ml of Aether Argent, Inuus, or A Roll in the Grass 

For All Readers: A sample set of all three fragrances.

Let us know which of these you would pick, and if you are in the US or not. If you have a good Burning Man story, we’d love to hear it. Draw ends July 19, 2013.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

–Tama Blough, Senior Editor