Natural perfumery, for me, has been something of a mixed bag. I have smelled enough perfumes that are the olfactory equivalent of an unsweetened granola bar that I often approach a natural perfume line with a bit of apprehension. The scents seem tinged somehow with a higher, almost medicinal purpose, like if I wear them I might not smell too great but I’ll be a better person for doing so. Recently I tried a line of very expensive, organic, oil-based skin care and although my skin was indeed softer I also smelled like salad dressing. That’s not where I want to go with my personal fragrances. I wear perfume to smell good.

Last year I was introduced to the scents of Jane Cate, of A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes, who was awarded the title of Rising Star in Natural Perfumery 2011 by CaFleureBon.  What I like about Jane’s fragrances is that although they are definitely natural, they are an embodiment of Nature herself. I have an almost visceral reaction to these fragrances, as though I had set foot in an altogether wilder place.

Linden is one of my favorite notes in perfume, and I often register it in my nose as honey. When I first tried Bronte’, I thought for sure it was loaded with honey, and was surprised to see that it was not listed as a note. The combination of the linden with the rose and the warmer base notes creates a fragrance that is rich, pungent, and almost edible. Those earthy, resinous base notes seem to bring out the honey nature in the linden in a pleasing, comforting and rather seductive manner. Although this perfume might sound like it is made for cooler weather, it is perfect for spring, when you want to step away from something crisp and floral but don’t want to be weighed down by a claustrophobic winter scent. The lingering aroma on the skin is soft and beautiful, and it has nice longevity for a natural perfume.

Base Notes: Benzoin, Botanical Musk, Amber, Ambreine;  Heart Notes: Linden Blossom, Turkish Rose Abs. and  Tuberose; Top Notes: Bergamot and Pink Pepper.

Basil and Violet is a light, springy, herbal perfume. I definitely get a taste of wildness in this scent and feel it would be wonderful to wear when spending a day in the garden. The citrus facets add tang to the herbs, woods and resins. I would like to smell this one on a man – I think it would make a man smell well-groomed and outdoorsy without smelling soapy.  I am finding myself, as I write this, repeatedly lifting wrist to nose, enchanted by this unusual yet addictive scent. The woodsy sillage is close to the skin, with good longevity.

Base Notes: Frankincense, Vetiver; Heart Notes Violet Leaf, Sweet Basil, Hyssop, Lemon Verbena; Top Note: Lime. 

Jane has an interesting way with a rose. Notes, the third scent in the new additions to the line, is a soft blend of roses sitting on a bed of light amber. Rose is not my easiest note. Some of the all-time great rose fragrances smell like vinegar on my skin, and others are just too cloying and artificial. Notes has a femininity and softness that is plush without being suffocating, and Jane has managed to add just enough scent of wild roses and greenery that the fragrance remains fresh and true. The first time I sampled Notes, I thought it was fairly average in originality – this time I am experiencing the subtlety of the blend and enjoying it immensely. The far drydown is soft, lovely, and very sexy in that most innocent of ways. I had thought at first go that this could be my least favorite in the line, but that is definitely not the case.

Base Notes: Amber, Heart Notes: Rose Maroc, Wild Rose and Tuberose; Top is a Rose blend (Jane’s own)

I am still learning to appreciate the many facets of natural perfumery. I am excited when I find a perfumer that lifts me out of the health food store and into the garden, or meadow, or dappled forest. I think Jane Cate is living up to her Rising Star award with these diverse releases, and I look forward to smelling what she does next. Her beautifully packaged perfumes are available through A Wing & A Prayer on Etsy. My samples were graciously provided by Jane Cate.

Thanks to Jane’s generosity, we have a draw for ½ oz of the scent of your choice of Bronte, Basil and Violet, or Notes. Tell us about your favorite natural perfumes or perfumer and which of these scents you would choose! We will draw one winner on April 7,2012 via random.org.

We announce draw winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.

-Tama Blough, Senior Editor