If you asked anyone to name three things from the 1920’s, Flapper would undoubtedly be in the top three answers. That same “joie de vivre” (joy for life) spirit is the inspiration for the newest fragrance from Tocca. This is a House that celebrates women and encourages its customers to love themselves while bringing a rather modern delicate fragrant style to celebrate such classic women like Brigitte Bardot, Colette and Grace Kelly. The muse of this particular perfume is a young girl on a rolling green lawn, at a summer party in the Twenties, dancing the Charleston and living it up.
Flappers
When I think of the Roaring Twenties, I tend to think of Shalimar, Chanel No5, Habanita or Arpege. These are the classic scents that spring to my mind for strong women of that decade. Liliana, however, is a young carefree girl and this perfume captures her essence. It has a delicate tenacity much like a young girl growing up in that era would. It radiates innocence, but also lively warmth…and just a hint of naughtiness. She is no flapper, yet that is; but she is most certainly eyeing them closely and seeing how much fun they are having.
1920's Garden Party by John F. Gaulthier
The opening notes set the stage perfectly for the summer lawn party aura. An illuminating blast of bergamot shines on warm sunny neroli blossoms, fresh and full. These blossoms are laden with pollen and exhibit a rather musky facet. Sharp bergamot and heady petals are softened by a pale peachy sweetness. White (or Snow) peaches come to mind. A sweet (but sheer) fruitiness, cool and not too sweet, blends the astringent citrus and somewhat powdery blossoms and tame them. At this stage she is all dainty and feminine, poised and mild mannered. The guests are mingling everything is crisp, lively and fun.
Somewhere a champagne cork pops and everybody laughs. The day is becoming warmer now, and everyone is loosening up a bit. Aromas from the flower garden swirl about on the air. Gardenia, thick and intoxicating, and lush spicy peonies are balanced nicely here, against the fresh and green innocence of tender clusters of lily-of-the-valley. This combination captures both the awakening woman within and the young and tender girl without. This is not necessarily a fruity floral perfume. It has fruits in its opening yet, to my nose, this is predominately a tender slightly sweet white floral scent. White flowers can range from pure to downright sinful, and this perfume captures all of it from soft and delicate to sexy and sensual, as it changes and develops.
Miss Mary and Edeltrude Lying in the Grass by Heinrich Kuhn (c. 1910)
After much dancing flirting and fun (not to mention those two glasses of champagne) Liliana becomes warmer and fuller. She does not walk like a young lady now, she saunters. She spins herself about until dizzy, falls on the grass and rolls in it…laughing and loving every moment of it. Benzoin, so warming like the setting evening sun, spreads luxuriously on the skin after the flowers recede. Musk and patchouli add some naughtiness, but not too much. It’s all in fun. The cute boy she has been eyeing all night is making eye contact and smiling slightly and blushing. They join hands and walk to a strong and sun-warmed tree as she giggles and he holds her up. Her back against the tree, she smells its woodiness along with his musk as their lips touch gently. She feels young and alive and special.
This perfume is not at all like a classic Twenties perfume. It has no aldehydes erupting, nor does it drip with oakmoss or civet. It does not smell like a flapper or some glamorous starlet or sultry madam. These, I would osmagine, would tend to smell smokier, boozier and more wanton. What it does emanate is a beautiful blending of simple notes and stylish class. Liliana is more the scent of that joyful, hopeful and vivacious flapper attitude and its lust for life that Tocca has bottled here. She is not intense or overpowering but she does get noticed. An afternoon of fun and gaiety is all I generally get out of this eau de parfum; though it reminds me that one afternoon can be magical and maybe change your life. Living loving, laughing and enjoying each moment, these are what she is really all about…and this scent can remind us of that-no matter how old we might be! Sillage: average. Longevity: slightly below average.
Disclosure: Review based on a bottle sent to me by Tocca.
Thanks to Tocca we have a full 50mL bottle of Liliana to giveaway. To be eligible leave a comment naming something to do with the Roaring 20’s. The draw will end on February 23, 2013.
We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
-John Reasinger, Editor