New Fragrance Review: Nomenclature Shi_so (Bertrand Duchaufour) 2017 + Glycolierral® Green Fantasy Draw

Photo of Nomenclature Fragrances at Esxence 2017  (photo by Ermano)

In late 2015,  Nomenclature arrived on the fragrance scene, celebrating a unique design and scent concept; creating perfumes that showcase the multiple facets of new synthetic molecules.  Nomenclature, dedicated to exploring the beauty of the specific aroma-chemicals, features a different synthetic molecule in every new perfume.  

Bertrand Duchaufor courtesy of Bertrand Duchaufour

Shi_so, Nomenclature's sixth and latest neo-synthetic fragrance, melds the modern, spare and elegant aesthetic of the creative directors, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour's abiding interest in Japanese culture.  Like the other fragrances in the Nomenclature line, Shi_so reflects both art and science in the design of the perfume as well as in the packaging and presentation.  The bottles are styled after Erlenmeyer flasks with removable stainless steel sprayers. Both the origami styled boxes and the bottles themselves are embossed with the image of the structural formulas of the synthetic aroma-chemicals featured in each perfume. 

Vogue UK Dec 2012  (Tim Walker)  Model:Malgosia Bela © apped MC

Shi_so showcases the very green, softly floral, milky and woody effects of Givaudan’s herbaceous Glycolierral® integrated with the natural scent of one of my favorite summer garden herbs, shi-so, also known as Perilla. Nomenclature Shi_so is a marriage of the fantasy herbs and milky greenery of Glycolierral® with the cool, delicious spicy, metallic mint and sesame scent of the shi-so leaf.

Perilla Frutescens via Wikipedia

Perilla and its many variants and cultivars are treated as tender perennials or annuals in the Pacific Northwest, but are considered to be weeds in some parts of the U.S. The two versions I am most familiar with (and that I grow in my garden) are Perilla frutescens and P. frutescens var. crispa, both in green variants.  The former is used extensively in Korean cooking and the crispa variety, AKA shi-so, with its slightly different leaf shape and scent profile, is favored in Japanese and Vietnamese cuisines The fragrance of both the species and the variant is cool, sweet, powerful and tenacious with a spicy, moist-metallic effect that is complex and memorable.

Vogue US Sept 2015 ©

My first spritz of Nomenclature Shi_so immediately refreshes, like the garden Perilla, with a crisp allusion to cool morning mist; droplets of dew sparkling on myriad shapes and hues of green leaves. The initial breath of the perfume is that of a newly unfurled, heart shaped, serrated shi-so leaf, minty and metallic with suggestions of sweet spice,  and sesame. This early impression flows quickly into a bouquet of lemon verbena touched by the soft woody floral notes of Glycolierral® and the sweet rasp of Bertrand Duchaufour's signature blackcurrant.

Coco Rocha as Poison Ivy for Vogue US May 2008 Tim Walker

 As the scent progresses the effects of the aroma-chemical become more pronounced, revealing a  "super hero" stylized interpretation of "ivy" leaf.  I have to admit that the smell of the real English ivy plant has never been a favorite of mine. The bitter, vaguely spicy, waxy, sharp verdure of this invasive weed reminds me of the days (and months) I have spent trying to remove these green monsters from our property. Be that as it may, Bertrand Duchaufour, working his magic with Glycolierral®, has been able to isolate the verdant beauty of a fantasy ivy, leaving out all of the unpleasant facets of the real thing.  This is the perfect example of how art and science augment (perhaps improve on?) nature, as first the chemist and then the perfumer select and mix both natural and synthetic scented media to create olfactory art. This complimentary interpretation of ivy leaf is colored with green cardamom and a touch of spearmint. 

Karlie Kloss for Vogue UK©

At about two hours the sweet, milky nuances of Glycolierral® come into play, adding depth and smoothness to the airy, uplifting qualities of the herbal mélange. Shi_so lingers on my skin, leaving fascinating traces of green woods, a suggestion of mint and aura of sweet milk that I enjoy for eight hours and more.  This Eau de Parfum actually functions as an invigorating modern Eau de Cologne, blessed with incredible longevity.  The sillage is close and at once bracing.  From the foreground to the vanishing point the colors and textures of Glycolierral® are woven seamlessly into a fragrant tapestry of many accords and essences, creating a supernatural fragrance fantasy that entices, cools and calms the mind while uplifting the spirit.

Notes: Glycolierral® Green, shi-so leaf, ivy leaf, cardamom, spearmint, verbena and blackcurrant.

Disclaimer:  Many thanks to Aedes.com for the generous samples of Nomenclature Shi_so.  My opinions are my own.

–Gail Gross, Editor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Editor’s Note: This is the first fragrance for Nomenclature by Bertrand Duchaufour. Previous Nomenclature perfumes were by Frank Voelkl of Firmenich  and Patricia Choux of Mane. I have been  honored to interview all three master perfumers. 

Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature we have a reader's choice of one 100 ml bottle of Nomenclature Shi_so  EDP ($165) for one registered US reader  (be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible, tell us what appeals to you about Shi_so, based on Gail's review.  You can also leave a comment with your favorite fragrance from Nomenclature or  from Bertrand Duchaufour. Draw closes June 12, 2017

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

     

 

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25 comments

  • fazalcheema says:

    This is interesting because like Bertrand, I am also fascinated by Japanese culture. Even the name Shi-so provides hints this fragrance has been inspired by Japan. It is green but also has woody and milky elements. I have not tried any from Nomenclature so far but my favorite from Bertrand is MDCI Chypre Palatin. I am in the US.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Bitter, milky, sweet–I really like the contrasts listed in the interview. Furthermore, I too have bad associations with hacking ivy and I’m curious to smell a more palatable version of that smell…Lierre from Diptyque intrigued me but was a bit too sharp in the end. I also love shiso in general, so I’m curious to smell that translated to scent! I love the contempo-synthetic aesthetic of these scents. Natural-filled vintage classy fragrances are great, but I am all for turning modern and synthetic ingredients into art, since a lot of entirely syth fragrances get bad press! I like the iris and violet smelling ones from this line. Duchaufour is also a favorite nose. Like the commenter above, Chypre Palatin is probably my favorite, though I also love most of his L’Artisan contributions. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    Mmm, I love milky fragrances. This one sounds green and sweet – I also love mint. I really like Skin on Skin by Bertrand Duchaufour 🙂

  • Gypsy Parfumista says:

    How it is a EDP functions as “an invigorating modern eau de cologne blessed with incredible longevity”. Plus the idea of a “super hro” fantasy ivy; then add to that Bertrand Duchaufour as the Nose…and I am sold!

    Of the six Nomenclature perfumes I own five in the mini 3 ml travel sample size (Orb-ital. is my dearest love of the first five) and would love to win a bottle of Shi-so as the sample Aedes sent me had my eyes rolling back and my tongue wagging! It was soon used up, even though it was a generously sized vial!

    Originally on hearing of this House I was skeptical (being a lover of all things natural) yet once I purchased the 3ml x 4 perfume sampler set (with the fifth 3 ml as a free gift) I was sold. I now firmly believe there is a place in modern perfumery for both naturals and synthetic aroma-chemicals!

    To pick one favorite perfume by Duchaufour is like asking me which cat I would save if there were a fire! I dearly love his first Aedes de Venustas (rhubarb and hazelnuts so unusual) and also his work for Vagabond Prince (especially Land of Warriors and Bass Solo) not to metion my favorite Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo scent Cipresso di Toscano, the discontinued wonder of Mure et Musc Extrait, Timbuktu (also by L’Artisan) and two of my favorite Penhaligon’s Esprit du Roi & Sartorial! AND TRUST ME IT TOOK ME A WHILE TO WHITTLE IT DOWN TO THESE lol 😉

    Registered U.S. resident

  • NiceVULady says:

    This sounds like such a marvelous fragrances to wear in the Spring and Summer. Ostara and Avignon are favorites of mine. And who would neglect all the Neela Vermeire creations. The man has created so many fragrances that are beautiful. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Systeme_D says:

    Oh my! Shi_so has my name written all over it. Milky, woody greenness, spiked with verbena, mint, and my beloved cardamom – this sounds like a dream come true. And so perfect for the season.

    How marvelous that a gardener like Gail reviewed this one. Her expertise, and her beguiling portrait of scent has drawn me right in.

    Please include me in the draw for this one.
    I am in the US.

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    So many interesting facets of this interpretation of synthetic . And finally a mint that is spearmint, my personal favorite, rather than the peppermint currently in vogue. I am in the US.

  • Vahagn says:

    Thank you, Gail for great review. I’ve read about Shi_so so many beautiful reviews. I remember Shi_so was bloggers’ the one of favorites in last Esxence 2017.
    Gail’s reviews is so beutiful and convincing, that I want now to test or have Shi_so not beeing green perfumes lover)))
    I’ve never test any Nomenclature, but I like Duchaufour’s perfumes, especially Timbuktu, Chypre Palatin, Or du Serail, Neela Vermeire Creations.
    USA, DE

  • melisande says:

    Thanks Gail! I’m curious about this one because I love milky scents but they are just too sweet on my skin.
    Kyoto by CdG is my favorite from Mr. Duchaufour.
    In the USA.

  • dreamer says:

    Informative and evocative review! Love the description”Shi_so immediately refreshes, like the garden Perilla, with a crisp allusion to cool morning mist”.
    My favorite Duchaufour’s perfume is Timbuktu.

    Thank you for the draw! I live in the USA.

  • Amber says:

    I love Shiso/Perilla and Bertrand Duchaufour’s perfumes so I can’t wait to smell what he’s created with these notes! I’m in the US.

  • rox says:

    This sounds perfect for spring/summer. I’ve seen the shiso leaves in my local Japanese market, but haven’t used them. I would love to try this “supernatural fragrance fantasy”. The bottles are adorable. My favorite by Bertrand is Mechant Loup. Thanks for the draw. I live in the U.S.

  • Cynthia says:

    I have smelled shiso leaf in a few different perfumes and it always takes on a different aspect. I would love to see how it is interpreted in this perfume. USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • tiffanie says:

    Thank you to Gail for the intriguing description of Shi_so’s development. I love shiso and lemon verbena, too. When I’ve smelled and tasted them in their natural form they are like herbaceous cousins, similar in their green-ness, different in the mood they inspire. Shiso feels contemplative while lemon verbena is uplifting. Ostara is my favorite scent from M. Duchaufour. I am in the US. Many thanks for the draw.

  • allaces says:

    fantasy herbs and milky greenery ….sounds wonderful. I love experiencing new green fragrances. Bertrand has made many wonderful fragrances so Im very intrigued by this. I think my favorite of his are Enchanted Forest or Baume du Doge. Im in the USA. thanks so much

  • Tunny says:

    Milky greenery that’s as complex as nature. Very interesting. I see shiso in the Markets and now I know what it is!
    From BD my favorite is Oud Shamash by the different company and Amarinthe by Penhaligon and Neela Trayee.

  • Dawn Crawford says:

    Would love to win. Have not tried this brand but love the idea of shiso. Thanks for the opportunity!

  • aurora_ru says:

    Oh, wowow! The description of Shi_so sounds so amazing from all the angles: japanese inspiration, my favorite notes, fascinating concept and… Duchaufour!! My favorite BD perfume is Timbuktu, which is slowly becoming my signature fragrance. Maybe even the signature fragrance of my family, because my father uses it too. From what i read, Shi_so sounds similar to Timbuktu and my other favorite: Aedes de Venustas edp. Refreshing and very well balanced. Please include me in this draw, I have mailing address in the US. Thank you very much!!

  • gregorysop says:

    Very interesting, I cook frequently and use blue apron/green chef and was unaware of this herb. Although I am unsure whether I will like it, I am definitely down to try it.
    From USA

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Thanks for an amazing review! Shiso is new thing for me, never heard before of Shiso so I googled and found it a plant/herb belonging to the mint family with tastes more like cinnamon and spicy. Shiso fragrance description by Gail tempting me to give a try, as I am not into minty fragrances. My favorite Bertrand Duchaufour creation is Trayee by Neela Vermeire.
    Thanks to the generosity of Nomenclature and Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw by letting my relative address in US.

  • Bryan Christopher says:

    Having the synthetics front and center in Nomenclature’s scents attracts me. Where in others they hide it as “notes” but here you can see them. Gail’s review is nice but also informative about the perfume which made me want it more. Sartorial by Penhaligon’s is my current fave scent from him.

    Thanks for the chance and have a nice day! I’m in the US.

  • Patty P says:

    The way Nomenclature does synthetics is brilliant. I’m drawn to Gail’s mention of minty and metallic. The longevity of Shi_So from Gail’s experience is nice and long. Having Bertrand Duchaufour’s signature blackcurrant in the note list is a nice wow factor. My favorite from Mr. Duchaufour’s is Jardin du Poete. 🙂 U.S.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love shiso! When I lived in Japan, I used to make pickled sour plums and I’d use red shiso leaves to dye them red. I used to also make shiso juice–wow! It’s shiso amped up. Comme des Garçons Shiso was also the very first niche perfume I ever wore. I wish they would bring it back!
    I love Bertrand Duchaufour’s Kyoto by Comme des Garçons.
    I live in the USA.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    I love a slight lactonic note, so am intrigued to see how it plays out with the ivy and mint. It sounds like a lovely time in the garden. This is an aromachemical that I’m not familiar with… does anyone know other things this has been used in?

    This is going on my try-list. Thanks so much for the informative article, Gail! And thank you, Nomenclature, for the generous draw. I’m in the USA.