NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW: Les Exclusifs de Chanel Jersey by Sergey Borisov

 

Launched in  2007, Les Exclusifs de Chanel is the  Company's niche collection that  (until recently has been famous by its 200 ml bottles) and always are scented symbols of  CoCo Chanel's lifeIt had  been expanded by Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake every year until 2010 , when Les Exclusifs was put on hold for the masculine launch of Bleu de Chanel.  (Bleu de Chanel is the number one masculine since  its launch  and  received  FiFi awards in Paris and New York).

 

 

When I visited the Chanel headquarters,  for the unveiling of Chanel 19 Poudre, Jacques Polge announced  the new name of the upcoming Les Exclusif  – Jersey.  As soon as  Chanel fans  heard the news, they were making their guesses – what would Jersey smells like? What would be its notes and scent profile? What note could better evoke the soft drapes of the fabric that revolutionied fashion for women – jersey.

 

 

 

I remember my guess  wast hat Jersey could be a sport cologne  (or am osmanthus absolute)  I  thought  this perfume would be devoted to new Chanel in-house ingredients; Chanel perfumer Chris Sheldrake told me about orris plantation in Grasse and Austro-Caledonian Sandalwood forest recultivated in Vanuatu.

(Our EIC Michelyn Camen hoped it would be vanilla and leather).  

 

 

Jersey is a weightless lavender cologne, clean and crisp, soft and sweet. Jersey is a cologne that evokes a gray-lavender transparent veil. 

 

It`s a fractionated lavender (as in Brin de Reglisse Hermessence)  which has been separated from all the dirty aspects. You could easily recall the acid aspects of wet chalk in Caron pour un homme, Impact Caron & A Taste of Heaven by Kilian – the perfumes where lavender absolute and lavender oil presents in its full glory (I had a hard time recalling my school duty of wiping blackboard by soaked wet rag that been white of chalk).

 

 In my opinion  Impact and A Taste of Heaven  by Kilian (Calice Becker) are Jersey'a most powerful competitors, They are  both  masculine lavender-amber-vanilla perfumes, strong and lasting, while Jersey is lighter.

 

 

Jersey is a warm and tender wind of July morning in Laduree street café. It is a French dessert like a lavender macaron.  If  licorice  was added to Jersey . it would be similar to Jean Claude Ellena's Brin de Reglisse out of it. Instead  Polge-Sheldrake used some vanilla-like sweet note.(I`d say it`s Isobutavan a marshmallow-like note) And now, after two weeks wearing Jersey Chanel, I should admit that Michelyn was half-right.

 

 

.Jersey's sillage and  longevity are below average, the basenotes of coumarin, woods and muscs would fit the  the classification of a sport fougere cologne.  Since  I needed to spray Jersey constantly to stay  on my skin  to last least 4 hours;  it is  not a sillage monster, as  Ida Meister would say. It is a watercolor not an oil painting.

 

 

 Duke of Grosvenor Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor  with Coco Chanel

 

I believe that Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake originally to named Jersey "Project Bendor" after  the Duke of Westminster, who  was  Coco  Chanel's lover (he was married) from 1925 to 1930.  Lavender colognes were popular in Britain, so Hugh Richard Arthur Grosvenor The Duke of Westminster would have used lavender colognes as well. (Since the Chanel corporation only use Coco Chanel symbols, Project Bendor became Jersey).

 

 

(Editor's Notes: One famous story is that he hid a huge uncut emerald at the bottom of a crate of vegetables for her, another is that he showed up at Chanel's apartment with an enormous bouquet of flowers and was only recognized after Chanel's assistant tried to hand "the delivery boy" a tip. It is also reputed that he had her distinctive logo placed on lamposts on the Grosvenor estate in Central London, a story which is denied by the Grosvenor estate today).

 

 

 The Rye Field Ivan Ivanovich SHISHKIN

 

Lately, Jersey is my "invisible" constant companion; it is soothing, calm, unassuming – I wear it for the office and when I'm stressed; the lavender is sooothing  and perfect for a stroll. In summary I wear Jersey when I don't want to try too hard or when life needs a splash of refreshing scent.

 

Sergey Borisov, Monthly Contributor

 

."There have been several Duchesses of Westminster. There is only one Chanel.”-Coco Chanel

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13 comments

  • I have to be honest, i am somewhat disappointed by the Jersey, its all clean Musk on me…the Lavender is like a lightning bolt here one minute and completely gone the next leaving a trail of clean musk behind on me. I would have loved to had more Lavender throughout this fragrance.

  • if this smells anything like the paining of shishkin makes me feel
    (michelyn, how *do* you do that???)
    i want to smell it 🙂

  • Michelyn, its nice but its more clean Musk on me then anything else, so if you want something clean and office friendly this is definitely it for sure. I was hoping for more of a Lavender note. But i will say i love Chanel Beige and No.22

  • I LOVE the note of lavender and it isn’t often the headliner in many fragrances. Jersey sounds lovely as a benign non-offensive fragrance to wear around those who don’t like fragrance. Years ago I wore no.22 when it was offered in an affordable EDT. I would love to revisit 22 and try Jersey and Beige as well. If only Chanel made these fragrances more accessible and not carry the hefty $200.00 price tag.

  • Everything I’ve read tells me this one is a dud, plain and simple. Nervy, as I haven’t sniffed it, but I will. I hate to think that Chanel laid a Jersey cow, but if L’Occitane released this, I think we’d freely express our disappointment. More impetus for La Maison de Chanel to knock one out of the park next time.

  • Chriisikins how can you judge a Fragrance you have not smelled
    Sergey is one of the most respected noses around and fragrance editor for gq Russia
    If we don’t think a fragrance has some merit we don’t write about it
    I remember in 2006 everyone trash talking kilian on the blogs before the fragrances debuted even luca Turin booed cruel intentions
    It’s now a darling of the cognoscenti

  • I agree that you can’t judge a fragrance that you haven’t smelled. I remember that on vacation, I went to a city that had a neiman Marcus. It was a few weeks before the launch of the van cleef and arpels exclusive line. This particular neiman Marcus had received advanced samples and gave me a pack before any of the perfume blogs had posted reviews or smelled them. The next week, one of the top perfume blogs wrote a post about the upcoming launch and stated that since so many were coming out at one time, they were likely to be bad etc. She basically said that she expected them to be bad. But they were wonderful! I love 4 of them. I think that they are beautiful (and later, that same blog posted several positive reviews). Sometimes our expectations really get in the way.

    Thanks for the review! I’ve been dying to hear what cad sure on thought. I haven’t been able to smell it yet but I like a couple of the exclusifs. It sounds like it could be great.

  • Thanks for the info, Michelyn! Now I know that Chanel carries smaller bottles that are less money. I still remember, though, purchasing an EDT refill atomizer for my no, 22 white rectangular plastic canister for under $50! Now 22 is an “exclusif”!

  • Didn’t mean to ruffle any feathers — just saying that everything I’ve read has damned it with faint praise. I wasn’t reviewing it -maybe it’s a winner. Chanel’s my favorite house and I look forward to everything they release. My point was that venerable houses seem to get cut a lot of slack. Maybe it’s well-deserved after years of amazing output and my point is baseless. Heck, I’m doing a 360 and saying ignore me.

  • A little late on responding, but this is my favorite Chanel – a beautiful review. I am lucky- it lasts all day on me and am happy to own a bottle.

  • My favorite. I have migraines and most fragrances are hard to tolerate. This one was nice and people also complemented me for wearing it…