NEW FRAGRANCE REVIEW Jo Malone Wild Bluebell: Innocence Lost?

I tend to get worried when long-standing companies begin their latest press releases with a statement about how this is the “New…More Modern…..Quirky” version of the line. Often those phrases are the harbinger of something less than what came before; more flash and less substance. Even so sometimes there are good companies which I might think do need an image overhaul and I believe it can do them some good. The latest example of a company trying to go from stiff British upper lip to “quirky” is Jo Malone. In the press release for their latest release Wild Bluebell I was greeted with a very different photo than what Jo Malone has used in the past. Instead of a bottle surrounded by its ingredients the Wild Bluebell photo has a luxe-grunge princess  lounging on a bed of bluebells in front of an oversized bottle of Wild Bluebell with a couple of white rabbits thrown in. This was not the old static bottle photos that came before.

Sometimes with the image makeover the perfume house can also have a creative makeover as well. Jo Malone has become a very reliable line for my tastes especially since Christine Nagel has taken over as in-house perfumer and after the picture I began to read the words and realized that the change at Jo Malone was all image but the substance, the juice, that still carried the same creativity Mme Nagel brings to her fragrances.

Wild Bluebell feels like a natural partner and progression from the spring release by Mme Nagel for Jo Malone Sakura Cherry Blossom. Sakura Cherry Blossom was a lightly floral paean to the possibilities of Spring and fairly burst with life. Wild Bluebell feels like the waning days of Summer and the early Fall as you try to sniff the flowers one more time before winter snatches it away for good. Wild Bluebell carries the same light floral character of Sakura Cherry Blossom but it has a fresher quality to it which is quite attractive to me.

In the opening moments of Wild Bluebell that is all you smell fresh sweet floralcy courtesy of the titular note. Then Mme Nagel throws a bit of spice underneath in clove. I really liked the choice of clove as counterpoint to the freshness as it roughs up the innocent bluebell; a little like our poster girl in the picture. Mme Nagel then lets lily of the valley add to the fresh floral nature and also includes a bit of jasmine to make it slightly sweeter; not a lot just a little. The end game of Wild Bluebell is all white amber and musk, kept sheer and lilting, perfectly balanced so as not to intrude but to slowly take you away from the garden and into the house.

Wild Bluebell has overnight longevity and above average sillage, both unusual for a Jo Malone release.

I’m still on the fence about the image makeover but thankfully the image makeover did not carry through to the perfumer’s atelier, which is a relief. Christine Nagel is putting an indelible imprint on Jo Malone and over these last few releases has been creating an outstanding body of work and Wild Bluebell is just another example of it.

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Jo Malone

–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

What do you think  about the  the new "makeover" and or Christine Nagel as a perfumer in residence for the Company?  

 

Editor's Note  Jo Malone’s new Creative Director James Gager. who comes with a great resume of helping brands cement their places in the marketplace as both clever and cool. Gager was formerly Senior Vice President Creative Director for MAC Cosmetics Worldwide, and rightly described by the Lauder group’s John Demsey as a “game-changer.  He began conceptualising all creative activity for M.A.C in 1999; and is the man responsible for Lady Gaga for Viva Glam 2011 .  Since M.A.C  is the number one makeup artist brand in the world; I am looking forward to seeing what  he will do  with  Jo Malone and perfume

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7 comments

  • Lisa says:

    I’m afraid I am not a fan of the ad for Bluebell. The model looks like she passed away several hours before the photo shoot.

  • Sybarite says:

    I didn’t mind the image they had before, as I believe it actually suited the style of their perfumes pretty well, & was quite distinct to them. And while I also don’t particularly dislike this new image overhaul. (Being a big fan of all things quirky, personally they could’ve pushed even quirkier, if that’s really what they were going for). But on closer analysis I actually think their original image was much more individual. With this one only lending them a more similar look & feel to countless other perfume houses’ images. So basically, looks less original overall. (Don’t fix what’s not particularly broken, I’d tend to think. ~ But good luck to them !)
    But as far as Christine Nagel joining as in-house perfumer, I think it’s the best things that’s happened to the house. With much improvement already, and the promise of much more to come.
    (Even just the improvement of longevity/tenacity is a great sign, (I hope will continue), as it’s one particular quality I’ve always found lacking with the Malone’s.)

  • Cynthia says:

    I tried bluebell at my local NM the other day and smelled….nothing. Absolutely nothing. Very disappointing! I will definitely give it another try, maybe my nose was having an off day.
    Your explanation that their creative director worked for MAC explains alot. I must admit, MAC counters have always kind of scared me. I cut them a wide bearth when I go through the beauty department of my local stores. But then I’m way beyond the age of their target audience, so I guess that’s just good branding on their part. I think their new campaign will attract a younger crowd, but I don’t really think that’s JM’s true audience. I kind of like their austere bottles and no-nonsense ads of the past.

  • Feliciag says:

    I am confused about the target market for Jo Malone? I am guessing because MAC is a get them young and “grow with you” brand, Malone wants a simillar demographic. I have been a MAC loyalist since the nineties when I was an intern in Manhattan. But if I had not grownup with thte products they sell, I would be very intimidated like a gal at the Starbucks counter for the first time on a Monday morning coffee line. I have liked Jo Malone, whilest knowing nothing about who they are or want to be. I think as long as the scents stay awesome and unique, I will still like the clean ness of the scents. They are what the their name says they are in my experience. I hope it stay s that way I have seen the appraoch as simplistic.

  • Undina says:

    I’m a fan of Jo Malone line and I like and own many of their colognes. I didn’t like the new visuals and I do not feel anything towards the new perfume: I do not dislike it, it’s fine, I just do not see any reason to add it to my collection. But when they come up with the next cologne I’ll be in a store the first week to try it, no matter what picture they choose to promote it: the brand and the perfumer both have a great credit with me.

  • civava says:

    I have no idea what’s the smell of bluebell like. I don’t know if it grows in our woods. I hope I will have the opportunity to see and smell it in the nature.

  • Lisa says:

    Just ordered Wild Bluebells after a wonderful and beautifully detailed envelope with a sample arrived a few weeks ago. Love the butterfly detail, love the blue floral nod to British style and design and the bunnies are right out of Alice in Wonderland! I have tO say I am a sucker for all things Jo. With each release comes and excitement and I can give as a gift or keep for myself. How wOnderful for the insight into the fragrance house new perfumers in this article! These scents are worth the price and cater to the upper lip for sure. The essences are so clear and remind me of a fine dressed lady. Love LBManderine, love v gardenia, love them all.. Can’t wait to get W Bluebell! I am a 30 something from US. My Only complaint about Jo malOne is give better gifts with purchase to make it worth while, Lux candles are too too expensive for me but I want one so bad, and release only about half the amount of scents a year- I can’t keep up.