I’ve been holding onto this since early June.

In January of last year at the first Elements Showcase, I initially sniffed Immortelle Marilyn, which was still very much a work in progress.

I think it was the way I sniffed that piqued Stéphane’s curiosity, and we became engrossed in conversation.

After all the various fragrance events overseas, I received a package from Stéphane- Humbert Lucas, the nose behind Nez à Nez, SoOud, and The Hype Noses.

It was filled with all sorts of numbered bottles and notes; I thanked Stéphane promptly and profusely, and buried myself in them, most joyfully 😉

Those who are familiar with his work will recall that Monsieur Lucas is an iconoclastic gentleman who creates for his own artistic expression and pleasure.

He doesn’t react reflexively when there may be an outcry against the subject matter inferred by his compositions [i.e.: Hiroshima Mon Amour, Burqa].

Actually, he’s very clearheaded about the responses- both positive and negative- to his perfumes.

[Personally, I think this can be a healthy attitude. One is always going to encounter naysayers and critics.]

 

Stéphane felt ‘something missing’ from current fragrant artistry- that glorious backstage smell of powder and sweat; the sensual, provocative odor of ‘New Burlesque’, as he charmingly refers to it.

This parfum would explode beneath extravagant cassowary – feathered costumes, singeing the nostrils of ingénues behind the scenes.

He describes it as ‘the scent of permission, a forbidden aroma’

SHL quotes Monroe, as he explores his Scent of a Woman

[Un Parfum de Femme]:

“Le sexe fait partie de la nature, j’obéis à la nature.”

[Sex is part of nature, I obey nature] – MM

Immortelle Marilyn celebrates imprudence, flamboyance, and duality.

How did Stéphane create this “celebrity perfume for those who can’t afford their

own “?

“I did as women do- I opened my bag, sniffed the makeup, powder, and mauve- tinted brushes-

And bit into the apple.”

Let’s break it down.

Fulgurance [brilliance]:

Immortelle, raspberry, hazelnut, ylang des Comores

Métamorphose: iris, leather, nutmeg

Quintessence: immortelle absolu, musc, amber gris- ambroxan

In the guise of a Strip Tease, SHL likens the seven accords /symbols to the gateway into a feminine Eden via immersion!

Lips =sequins of raspberry

Gown = white iris

Flesh = pearly immortelle, golden leather, and ambroxan

Instinct = musc

Mischief = hazelnut

The Glance = nutmeg

Sensuality = ylang

Up to now, I’ve tried to share Stéphane’s vision as he sees it [and translate it for you]…

Now it’s my turn 😉

Unapologetically opulent, curvy, and LUSH.

Immortelle Marilyn is not a timid blushing maiden, not by a long shot.

Eau de parfum strength feels ideal – it makes all the notes pop.

Aldehydes lend Immortelle Marilyn lift and expansivity, more effectively showcasing each element in the process.

Those who are frightened by fruit and nuts needn’t be wary – raspberry and hazelnut hint at the femme-fleur aspect of Monroe, amplified by musk and the generous use of immortelle [at first maple-intoned, becoming buttery / salty later on in its development] to intimate carnality.

Nutmeg and ylang couple seamlessly, like the beast with two backs  😉

My ambroxan- aversion is a given; that said, its use here is far more judicious than the majority of current-day perfumery, and I don’t find it obtrusive.

[Let’s face it- like so many, I’d be happier to smell real beach-harvested ambergris in lieu of aromachemicals.]

The true beauty of Immortelle Marilyn only reveals itself hours later.

What began as sumptuous floral/ gourmand morphs into wondrously seductive post-coital raiment, tenacious on a lower decibel level.

It lingers lovingly as second skin, testament to the fleshly nature of our existence as well as innocence that may be altered, but never marred.

An unsullied, illuminated golden expanse.

Perhaps this is how Stéphane views Marilyn Monroe-

Much as I do.

Far from bimbo, it possesses a keen unspoken aromatic intelligence.

–Ida Meister, Senior Editor