New Fragrance Review: Hermès L’Ambre des Merveilles –Jean Claude Ellena’s Cocoon of Golden Scent

I am a recent fan of the lovely Hermès Eau des Merveilles. It has a saltiness to it that I find at once comforting and energizing, and it has become a staple in my scent wardrobe. I have not been as lucky with the flankers, so far. Elixir des Merveilles, on my skin, was a chokingly sweet heavy gourmand that I am afraid to even try again. Eau Claire des Merveilles is more palatable, but becomes a sweaty hog on my skin, which seems to be a reaction I have to some modern woody notes. When I was offered a sample of the new L’Ambre des Merveilles, I accepted it, but was not hopeful.

Despite my trepidation, I gave it a shot. In the immortal words of George Takei, “Oh, myyyyyy!” The sweetness and golden warmth of amber is pitch-perfect. It’s not cloying, doesn’t smell like Play-Doh ™, doesn’t completely fill the room with waft, and is undeniably sexy. Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena has taken the bones of Eau des Merveilles and clothed them in soft orange cashmere. As the scent dries down, a fragment of the ambergris salt is present, but the perfect blend of labdanum and vanilla that makes the iconic scent we know as amber takes the stage.  Though the notes do not list any fruit, I sense it, like the apricot of osmanthus, or a bit of orange peel, that keeps the perfume from veering too sweet.

Hermès released L’Ambre des Merveiiles at just the right time of the year. For chilly weather, it is a perfect sweater scent, and if you can wear perfume to work, it is quiet enough to not offend while still being present and warming. Also, did I mention that it is sexy? I love its chameleonesque ability to shift from a cuddly day scent to a really seductive evening scent. Snuggle up to your honey in front of the glowing hearth wearing this and there will be fireworks. I think a man in this fragrance would be as irresistible as a woman, and I recommend anyone who likes amber perfumes or is looking for something new for fall and winter, to give it a try.

Notes include amber, labdanum, patchouli and vanilla (various sources).

My sample was provided by the Hermès boutique in San Francisco.

Tama Blough, Senior Editor

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10 comments

  • Isn’t this lovely? I had such a difficult time with the chocolate note in the original and the elixir (Patty swears there is no chocolate – but try telling that to my nose! LOL!) I was prepared to dislike this one – and it crept up on me!! Not LOVE – but a huge helping of LIKE!

    xoA

  • It sounds right up my alley….cozy for cooler weather is what we need this time of year especially here in Wisconsin.

  • I am a big fan of Ralf Schwieger original
    and was crushed by the flankers that followed
    I mean it was based on ambergris not gourmand
    Will give this a try

  • It’s a really, really nice scent, and I’m glad to have a mini 15ml bottle (those are so cute)… but I don’t know that I’ll replace the original with it at all. You could say I can live without it.

    I should spend more time with Elixir and Eau Claire. It’s possible that if I need a version to cuddle up with in warm weather, it might be Elixir … I’m not sure it’s as scary as you remember.

  • I swapped away my bottle of the original long ago and have regretted it ever since; happily, just made arrangements to swap for a new bottle, yay. This version sounds delicious.

  • Nice (and love the art)! Elixir almost made me gag, but I adore the original and like Eau Claire. I need to give this new one a full trial. I sure liked it on the paper strip at the fragrance counter!

  • I just tried this a few weeks ago at Sephora and I liked it. I would’ve gotten a sample but the store was packed. Then I went to another Sephora and they didn’t even have it yet. I definitely will go back and get a sample to try this further. I’m just not sure about it’s staying power, it seemed to vanish fairly quickly. Yummy scent though and perfect for this time of year.

  • I love the whole Merveilles family- the only one I dont have is Clair- I have yet to try that one. I think the L’ambre and the original Eau are neck and neck for me. Plus I was able to find the Blue Constellation bottle, not that I am all about the bottle, but if a perfume I love comes in a unique lovely bottle, that is the icing on the cake! I have been wearing L’ambre pretty much every day sine I bought it and the love just gets deeper and deeper! ahhh! LOVE this stuff- thanks for the great post!