I am a recent fan of the lovely Hermès Eau des Merveilles. It has a saltiness to it that I find at once comforting and energizing, and it has become a staple in my scent wardrobe. I have not been as lucky with the flankers, so far. Elixir des Merveilles, on my skin, was a chokingly sweet heavy gourmand that I am afraid to even try again. Eau Claire des Merveilles is more palatable, but becomes a sweaty hog on my skin, which seems to be a reaction I have to some modern woody notes. When I was offered a sample of the new L’Ambre des Merveilles, I accepted it, but was not hopeful.
Despite my trepidation, I gave it a shot. In the immortal words of George Takei, “Oh, myyyyyy!” The sweetness and golden warmth of amber is pitch-perfect. It’s not cloying, doesn’t smell like Play-Doh ™, doesn’t completely fill the room with waft, and is undeniably sexy. Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena has taken the bones of Eau des Merveilles and clothed them in soft orange cashmere. As the scent dries down, a fragment of the ambergris salt is present, but the perfect blend of labdanum and vanilla that makes the iconic scent we know as amber takes the stage. Though the notes do not list any fruit, I sense it, like the apricot of osmanthus, or a bit of orange peel, that keeps the perfume from veering too sweet.
Hermès released L’Ambre des Merveiiles at just the right time of the year. For chilly weather, it is a perfect sweater scent, and if you can wear perfume to work, it is quiet enough to not offend while still being present and warming. Also, did I mention that it is sexy? I love its chameleonesque ability to shift from a cuddly day scent to a really seductive evening scent. Snuggle up to your honey in front of the glowing hearth wearing this and there will be fireworks. I think a man in this fragrance would be as irresistible as a woman, and I recommend anyone who likes amber perfumes or is looking for something new for fall and winter, to give it a try.
Notes include amber, labdanum, patchouli and vanilla (various sources).
My sample was provided by the Hermès boutique in San Francisco.
–Tama Blough, Senior Editor