Jean Claude Ellena

 In-house Perfumer for Hermés Jean-Claude Ellena, in his book Diary of a Nose, calls himself a writer of smells.  His penchant for revisiting and developing different facets of the same scent are often innovative studies in “simplexity”. The third chapter in the Jour d’Hermes story, Jour d’Hermés Absolu is, according to Jean-Claude Ellena, meant to be a “close up…expressing the essence of femininity with flowers and nothing but flowers” and takes the original to a new level, inwards rather than outwards.

If Jour d'Hermes (2012) was homage to dewy flowers blooming at dawn, then Un Jour Parfum (2013) evoked the last fragrant breath of blossoms at dusk. Both wore underpinnings of Musks; more intensely so in the Parfum. With this third iteration, we encounter the silken femininity of flowers at mid day and M. Ellena has composed a simply superb perfume structured on a tighter framework. Using two Divas of the flower world, sambac jasmine and gardenia together could be overpowering, however M. Ellena has managed to reign in their egos and choreograph a brilliant performance.

Emily Blunt Photo:bMichael Roberts for Vanity Fair

Imagine the most beautiful woman in the room, her gaze averted and speaking in whispers…. She is the personification of Jour d’Hermes Absolu. While alternating between tender and intense the fragrance truly fascinates me as it seems the very air around me teemed with a myriad of petals all swirling gently. Yet when I attempt to reach out and touch one particular petal, I cannot quite detect any one specific note. At times I feel light spring flowers, other times redolent with warm rich summer aromas. More than once, closer to the dry down, I caught subtle whiffs of autumn approaching with drier earthier notes, fading to silken flower dust and subtle sweetness.

Would a man wear Jour d’Hermes Absolu? Certainly, if he is confident enough to cross the imaginary gender marketing lines created by the Fragrance Industry. In fact, I have been wearing this scent four days straight and I cannot get enough of M. Ellena’s ode to femininity.

Notes: gardenia, sambac jasmine, apricot blossom and a profusion of bouquets.

Sillage: close to skin Longevity: Overnight plus.

Disclosure: Review based on bottle sent to me by Hermés USA P.R.

–John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfume Editor (with Contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief)

Jour d’ Hermés Absolu is currently available exclusively at Harrods London in 30, 50 & 85 ml EDP and at harrods.com in 50 and 85 ml EDP.

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen

Editor's Note: Luminism is a form of  landscape painting made popular in the19th century where the artist focuses on concealing brushstrokes. They would pencil sketch outdoors and then go to their studio and paint from memory. Luminists focus on the interplay of light with nature and are sticklers for the right colors. They balance detail with mystery. M. Ellena's olfactive art reminds me of luminism