New Fragrance Review: Grandiflora Queen of the Night (Saskia Havekes/Bertrand Duchaufour) + Flowering Cactus in Cabris Draw

Saskia Havekes florist

Saskia Havekes of Grandiflora in Sydney

For the past 20 years, Australian florist, author and more recently fragrance maker Saskia Havekes has built her Grandiflora brand. Saskia has an international reputation and her work has influenced the way flowers are displayed in fashion, editorial, hospitality and interior design. Her prestigious client list includes the names of royals, celebrities and artists.

saskia havakes  in her shop Grandiflora

 Photo of Saskia courtesy of  Theplanthunter.com

Despite her success, you can still find Saskia working along side her small team of florists in the boutique-sized flower shop she opened 20 years ago in Potts Point, one of Sydney’s trendy inner suburbs. A visit to Grandiflora is something I would recommend to any perfume lover visiting Sydney and you never know who you might rub shoulders with as you navigate your way through the shop’s narrow aisles in amongst the colourful flowers.

saskia havekes of grandiflora fragrance

Saskia Havekes at the estate of Edmond, Therese and Michel Roudnitska for the launch of Queen of the Night perfume and candles

Since Saskia launched her own line of fragrances in 2013, I’ve had a couple of opportunities to sit down with her and talk about Grandiflora fragrances. Our meeting ritual involves her clearing a workbench at the back of the shop, laying down a tablecloth of waxed wrapping paper, we sit amongst the flowers with a cup of tea and we discuss her latest projects.

Stephanotis grandiflora. Stephanotis Floribunda photo Saskia Havekes

Stephanotis grandiflora. Stephanotis Floribunda photo Saskia Havekes

Last month I met Saskia to talk about her new fragrance called Queen of the Night, which she created with French perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. Grandiflora fragrances started with two scents inspired by Saskia’s beloved Magnolia grandiflora, a beautiful and fragrant magnolia flower that blooms during Sydney’s warmer months. When she was developing these two fragrances, Saskia formed a close bond with her perfumers Sandrine Videault and Michel Roudnitska. She named the fragrances Sandrine and Michel in their honour. This gesture was even more significant when Sandrine Videault became ill and she sadly passed away as the project was nearing completion.

 

saskia havekes of grandiflora and Michel Roudnitska perfumer

Saskia Havekes and Michel Roudnitska  2015

Michel continued to work with Saskia on Grandiflora’s third fragrance called Madagascan Jasmine, which launched last summer. This ethereal white floral fragrance was a precise olfactory description of Stephanotis floribunda, a Madagascan jasmine flower that florists use in wedding bouquets because of its attractive white petals, trailing green foliage and opulent floral scent.

Bertrand Duchaufour in Cabris

Bertrand Duchaufour in Cabris (Grasse)  at the Roudnistka estate  for the launch of grandiflora Queen of The Night

This year, Saskia completed a fourth fragrance with Bertrand Duchaufour, a perfumer who needs no introduction amongst fans of niche fragrances. Together they interpreted the highly transient night flowering cactus Epiphyllum oxypetalum. Affectionately known as Queen of the Night, the orchid cactus is a Central American native that only produces flowers once a year. The flower opens in the night and lasts a matter of hours. By sunrise the flower is spent.

PinkWisteriamichelroudnitska

Pink Wisteria photo courtesy of Michel Roudnitska

Saskia has always been inspired by ephemeral flowers, which put on a spectacular show of colour and scent to attract a pollinator during their short lives. Saskia describes the flower’s scent as having a watery quality, which she associates with the scent of wisteria. It also has an important vanillic aspect. The first three Grandiflora fragrances were focused studies of one flower and although Queen of the Night continues the Grandiflora tradition of soliflore fragrances, I was interested to smell Bertrand’s interpretation of this uncommon flower, knowing that his work tends to sway more towards being conceptual in contrast to the photorealism of Madagascan Jasmine.

 grandiflora queen of the night photo Queen of the Night, shot by the renown photographe Gary Heery.

 photo Queen of the Night, shot by the renowned photographer Gary Heery.

Saskia says Bertrand “wrote to me with his ideas about the flower. I could tell he had injected really interesting qualities into the flower. He wanted to put the air and the desert, the surroundings of the flower into the fragrance.” After speaking with Saskia, I called Bertrand in Paris, and we talked about Queen of the Night over the phone. Saskia asked me to create a fragrance for the very specific scent of this cactus flower that blooms in the desert. She described the smell of the cactus flower and the area where it grows, the desert, and the fact that it blooms during the night. She wanted to represent a very fresh, night, watery and ozonic fragrance but still with something mineral because of the presence of the desert. So it was actually quite easy to represent this accord between three different poles, the mineral desert effect, the fresh ozonic night accent and the blooming floral note.”

Grandiflora fragrance queen of the night

Grandiflora Queen of the Night

Queen of the Night is a beautifully contrasted fragrance. The fragrance opens with delicate, watery floral notes, which are lifted by a bright citrus accord as well as being grounded with indolic notes, richly textured musk and the vanillic note Saskia spoke of. Bertrand used a range of raw materials and notes in his mineral accord, which needed to represent the flower’s dry desert habitat. In the top notes there are red berries and fresh spices, which compliment the incense note that lies further in. The base has sensual notes of sandalwood, amber and a generous 10% of Velvione, a refined and powdery musk molecule. To create the desert night’s cool atmosphere and to accentuate the flower’s watery quality, Bertrand says, “I refreshed everything with watery ozonic notes like syringa aldehyde, Helional and a fresh, floral lily of the valley effect. I used a lot of cyclamen aldehyde, which is very fresh and transparent.

Undergrowth Series 12, Photographed by Gary Heery in collaboration with Saskia Havekes

Undergrowth Series 12, Photographed by Gary Heery in collaboration with Saskia Havekes

Bertrand’s white floral accord is built around orange blossom absolute, which fills 0.6% of the formula and a seringa ( English mock orange flower not the lilac)  accord backed with jasmine notes. These flowers are naturally very indolic, which is an aspect Bertrand wanted to emphasise. “I used them because they are full of indol, which is a keystone of the construction. Indol is a key note in all the white floral accords and at the same time it is very floral, very sexual, sensual and very mineral. For me, indol is like tar or asphalt. It has a ‘road’ note. So it’s a key part of the mineral desert effect and it’s a good link between this and the white floral accord.” In our conversation Bertrand also talks about the importance of an orchid note in his formula. “There is a reason why I used the term orchid flower. Orchid is made of this vanillic effect mixed with salicylate notes and some tiny white floral effects.” By interweaving this complex range of accords and notes, Bertrand was able to construct a fragrance that echoes the mysterious personality of this rare nocturnal flower.

Bertand Duchaufour  Saskia Havekes Michel Roudnitska

 Bertrand Duchaufour  with Saskia Havekes and  Michel Roudnitska in Cabris Grasse at the launch of Queen of The Night

Australia is far away from perfume capitals like Paris, Grasse and New York and collaborating on a subjective project like the creation of a fragrance comes with its fair share of design challenges. Saskia compares the creative process to having a pen pal and she gets excited receiving small packages from her perfumers that contain the latest trials. For Bertrand, this remote way of working is becoming more common and he understands the importance of communication. “I work with a lot of foreigners who I don’t know at the beginning and maybe we meet first through Skype or something like that. It’s very important to have voice contact. Email is interesting for describing precisely what you want but the voice contact is very important to evaluate the way of expressing an accord.

 thereseRoudnitskaChristian Dior Edmond roudnitskacafleurebondiorissimo

 Therese Roudnitska, Christian Dior and Edmond Roudnitska (photo courtesy of Michel Roudntiska)

It wasn’t until the launch of the fragrance that Saskia and Bertrand finally had a chance to meet in person. Last month Saskia travelled to Cabris, a small village overlooking Grasse, which is home to the Roudnitska family. This Cabris residence is where Michel’s father, legendary perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, created Diorissimo for Christian Dior.

launch of grandiflora  queen of the night perfume in Cabris France

The launch of Queen of The Night in the garden of Edmond /Michel/Therese Roudnistksa Cabris France  June 21, 2016

He was inspired by the delicate scent of lily of the valley, which grew in the garden below his studio. Michel offered to host Saskia’s launch and Bertrand also attended. Queen of the Night was launched over an intimate dinner in the Roudnitska family garden.

pink moon  summer solstice 2016

Pink Moon June 21, 2016 photo space.com

By chance, the evening also coincided with the summer solstice and a rare pink moon. Michel in particular, who has an interest in permaculture and planting by the moon, pointed out the rarity of this moon, which will not take place for another 46 years. This gave me perspective and settled my patience for the idea of having to wait a year to experience the diva that is Queen of the Night. Luckily for everyone, we now have Grandiflora’s Queen of the Night, which gives us immediate access to this rare flower.

Disclosure: I received my bottle for review by Grandiflora.

All photos provided to ÇaFleureBon for this Review and interview with Bertrand Duchaufour  by Saskia Havakes unless otherwise specified. Note from Michelyn:  In addition,  I used photos from our archives that Michel Roudnitska sent me for various articles he has written for CaFleureBon

Clayton Ilolahia, Guest Contributor and Editor of What Men Should Smell Like

queen of the night grandiflora

Photo courtesy of luckyscent

Thanks to Grandiflora we have a 100 ml bottle of Queen of the Night for a registered reader in the EU, US and Canada. To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about Clayton’s review,  quotes you will remember, where you live and if you have a favorite  Grandiflora perfume. Draw closes 8/7/2016

queen of the night  candles

Madagascar Jasmine and Queen of the Night candles (photo by Michel Roudnitska)

Queen Of the Night is Available at Luckyscent.com as an Eau de Parfum and a candle

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36 comments

  • Very nice review. I really enjoyed to read the whole article. There was so many memorable quotes, but this was my favorite: “I work with a lot of foreigners who I don’t know at the beginning and maybe we meet first through Skype or something like that. It’s very important to have voice contact. Email is interesting for describing precisely what you want but the voice contact is very important to evaluate the way of expressing an accord.”
    I have never had a chance to try any of Grandiflora perfume, but I would very like to try at least this one. Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • What a wonderful article–the photos are magnificent (especially the one of Dior and the Roudnitskas!). I haven’t tried any Grandiflora fragrances, but Bertrand Duchaufour is my favorite perfumer, so I’d love to try this one. I am in Georgia, US.

  • My favorite part of this review was the description of the accords and notes used. “Bertrand was able to construct a fragrance that echoes the mysterious personality of this rare nocturnal flower.” We have a night blooming cactus in our yard. The flowers are gorgeous and huge. I live in the USA.

  • fazalcheema says:

    I have a feeling Saskia has been profiled on Cafleurebon before. She has aptly named her brand, given her work that is related to the art of flower presentations. Queen of the Night also pays homage to flowery elements and I have not smelled a proper floral composition from Duchaufour so I wonder how this has turned out to be. thanks a lot for the draw. I am in the US.

  • Amazing, the life cycle of the Queen of the Night orchid cactus! Would love to get to see one in person one day, and of course to sniff it. I haven’t tried any Grandiflora fragrances, but I would love to try. I am not sure where they are carried here. Thank you for the introduction and the review! I’m in Canada.

  • Great review, and it left me with a good understanding of what to expect from this one, as well as how it differs from the earlier Grandiflora perfumes. It’s a brand I’ve had my eye on for a while, but have unfortunately been unable to sample to date. Magnolia is a particular favourite flower of mine, and Edmond Roudnitska is my favourite perfumer. I am really looking forward to sampling both Sandrine and Michel’s creations for Grandiflora, and this too I hope!
    My favourite part of the review were the candid photographs from the Roudnitska estate – what a wonderful glimpse into their family home, and what an abundance of floral inspiration.
    All the best to Saskia as she continues on her path. Such clear vision and passion are a delight to see. Please enter me for the draw. Canada please

  • I enjoyed the whole review from the inspiration of the making this perfume till the launching ceremony of it in the amazingly beautiful cottage house of the Roudnitska’s on a rare summer full moon night!
    The notes of this fragrance including the surrounding environments smell make it truly exceptional, I am very much interested in experiencing it!!!
    Thank you for this lovely review very interesting to read with so many information concerning the creators life! Love the idea that she is a famous florist who likes to create new perfumes, unfortunately I never had the opportunity to experience any aromatic creation from her House.
    I am a registered reader living in EU.

    Thank you for the generous draw!

  • mahigermez says:

    The review is wonderful, so may descriptions, so much information and human interest in such a condensed form. Also, the photos tell a story all their own. I will remember Bertand Duchaufour’s comments “For me indol is like tar or asphalt. It has a ‘road’ note.” I never thought of indol that way before. I live in the US and have not tried Grandiflora perfumes, but would love to.

  • The collaboration between the two and the description of the fragrance is very promising and the fact that is built around orange blossom absolute is even more appealing to me. I haven’t had the chance to try any of their perfumes. I live in Europe.

  • Scensodine says:

    I don’t always read the whole article but in this case i was captured by the history, the person’s Saskia has worked with, the collaboration between 2 or more artists to create something special, the launch of the fragrance and all the amazing pictures giving the story even more life to it.
    The one quote that triggered me was: “For me indol is like tar or asphalt. It has a ‘road’ note.”
    I love indolic flowers like lily of the valley and tuberose and have my house full of Lilly’s every week (as in my garden they won’t last unfortunately)
    I haven’t ever smelled anything from Grandiflora but would jump of joy to!

    Thank you for this draw and I live in the Netherlands

  • This review intrigued me, especially the mixing of mineral and indolic. I think the desert does indeed have unions such as that.
    I have always wanted to try Grandiflora’s Madagascan Jasmine, but I haven’t been fortunate yet.
    I live in the USA.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Loved this review, and I especially like learning more about perfumes that come out of folks that deal specifically with flowers–hearing about their nuanced interpretations of the complex scent profiles of these natural things. Below is my favorite quote:

    “She wanted to represent a very fresh, night, watery and ozonic fragrance but still with something mineral because of the presence of the desert. So it was actually quite easy to represent this accord between three different poles, the mineral desert effect, the fresh ozonic night accent and the blooming floral note.”

    And this also happens to be what has me most excited about the review–a unique contrast of elements to create the atmospheric sense around the flower in addition to the flower itself. Also got a little tickle of excitement at the mention of hints of vanilla and the indolic nature of the flower.

    I tried and enjoyed the first two magnolias….both of them! I don’t think I could pick one or the other as a favorite. Never tried the Jasmine, but would love to as well.

    Thanks for the draw! I live in the US.

  • Oh to be at that launch party and meet Michel Roudnitska and Bertrand Duchaufour under a pink moon. I loved that Clayton was able to share the concepts behind the fragrance Queen of the night and I would love to win this for its unusual ingredients that capture mineral vanilla white flowers
    My favorite is Grandiflors Sandrinr and I live in the EU

  • Thank you for this informative article. I have sniffed a few cacti flowers here in the U.S.A., and the scents have been quite delicate and non-descript. So, it is cool to hear about one that has a distinct structure. Bertrand’s description of his vision and his fearlessness in naming specific aroma chemicals that he combined with the natural materials was enlightening. I so appreciate his honesty. I’m a bit scared by the indole in Queen of the Night, but Bertrand has such a precise touch that I’m sure my trepidation is baseless. I have not had the good fortune to try any of the Grandiflorum scents yet, but after reading your article I rushed over to the LuckyScent page to read the descriptions. They sound beautiful.

  • I really enjoyed the review and the accompanying pictures! My favorite quote was: “I used them because they are full of indol, which is a keystone of the construction. Indol is a key note in all the white floral accords and at the same time it is very floral, very sexual, sensual and very mineral. For me, indol is like tar or asphalt. It has a ‘road’ note. So it’s a key part of the mineral desert effect and it’s a good link between this and the white floral accord.” I also liked: “There is a reason why I used the term orchid flower. Orchid is made of this vanillic effect mixed with salicylate notes and some tiny white floral effects.” I really want to see this flower in full bloom at night now after reading this article. I’m amazed at the way that Saskia and Bertrand communicated to bring us this masterpiece and it all culminated with a wonderful dinner party at the Roudnistksa’s garden. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • What a wonderful article–the photos are magnificent (especially the one of Dior and the Roudnitskas!).I love the picture of the dinner party, what a wonderful way to launch a fragrance. I haven’t tried any Grandiflora fragrances, but I would love to try this. Please enter me in drawing, I live in the USA. Thank You.

  • I have never heard of this flower before, which as a gardener always excites me. This description is tops: “red berries and fresh spices, which compliment the incense note”

    Grandiflora fragrances have eluded me thus far. I’m in the USA, thanks for the drawing.

  • What impressed me most is how subtle the idea of a fragrance can be and that the sound of the voice is so important to understand someone’s energy before transforming it into a perfume. This is so romantic and fascinating.
    I don’t know any Grandiflora scents yet. I live in Europe and thank you for the draw!

  • cinnamon tree says:

    Thank you for so interesting review. I learned about so many things I didn’t know. First of all I didn’t know anything about Grandiflora scents and now I want to try them all! i am sure I’ll love both versions of Magnolia Grandiflora.

    I had also no idea that cacti flowers have any scent at all. I own some very small cacti and they rarely have any flowers, so it seems there is so much for me to learn. Queen of the Night, both the flower and the fragrance, seem to be so wonderful. I’d be delighted to win. I live in the EU

  • Miss Almond says:

    I love the photos. When I see Bertrand Duchaufour with his mischevious smile, I am sure he is inventing his next perfume. The more the better, because I love them.

    I am sure Queen of the Night is a beautiful scent, but I am a little afraid of the indolic notes. Anyway, I would love to try it. Have not tested any Grandiflora perfume yet.

    Thank you for the draw! Europe.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Wonderful Review and wonderful photos. I thought I Even could smelled this extraordinairy perfume. The Indolic notes Sound very strong. I Love the work of B.D. And I have Many of his oeuvre.

    I live in the EU, Thanks for the draw!

  • I thought it was interesting Bertand Duchaufour said he needed to have voice contact. I love Madagascan Jasmine and I really have high hopes for this one. I am in the UK

  • Very interesting story. I bet this is a really unique smelling perfume. I am curious about how the indolic notes work with the mineral accords. I haven’t tried any Grandiflora fragrances and I’d like to try this. Thanks for the draw. I live in the EU.

  • Well, I may sound ignorant, but I can’t quite imagine what exactly is “mineral accord” and what it smells like. I guess it’s something like a scent of warm sand, but I am not sure. I would love to get my hands on Queen of the Night and discover all of the notes myself. Very interesting article and very tempting draw! I live in Europe.

  • I love the story about this so rare flower which appears only once a year and only for few hours. This is what I love about perfumes: they can capture something so short-lasting, beautiful and fragile and give it a new, longer life. I try to imagine the scent of Queen of the Night and I think it must be wonderful. I would love to have a bottle of this perfume.
    I live in the EU.

  • Wow, I think this is a very rich, perhaps even complicated scent. The description is fascinating: “Queen of the Night is a beautifully contrasted fragrance. The fragrance opens with delicate, watery floral notes, which are lifted by a bright citrus accord as well as being grounded with indolic notes, richly textured musk and the vanillic note Saskia spoke of. Bertrand used a range of raw materials and notes in his mineral accord, which needed to represent the flower’s dry desert habitat. In the top notes there are red berries and fresh spices, which compliment the incense note that lies further in. The base has sensual notes of sandalwood, amber and a generous 10% of Velvione, a refined and powdery musk molecule.” There is so much in it, my imagination simply gives up and i cvan’t imagine this scent. I have to try it!

    I live in Europe. Thank you for the review and the draw!

  • What a review! and what a moment that launching at night with Roudnitska and Duchaufour!! It is great when there is more than an artist working on a fragrance, an idea! I have never smelled a cactus flower and more! it flowers just once a year, in the night a by sunrise “the flower is spent”, amazing!! I am also curious about that Magnolia Grandiflora! Thanks for the generous draw. I’m in EU (Spain)

  • Beautiful review! I really enjoyed following the story from creation to tothe lovely photos of the launch dinner! I love Magnolia by Michel and I’m looking forward to trying the new addition to the family. Thepink moon was really amazing! I am in the UK

  • That picture of the dinner to celebrate the launch of Queen of the Night: the long table of friends, toasting the launch, in a magical garden under a pink moon. Swoon! I was somehow born into the wrong life! I became aware of the Grandiflora brand a few years ago, and as I love white flowers I always wanted to try it. How exciting for Saskia to work with these well known perfumers and create new perfumes! I had never heard of this flower and I wonder how they happened to be there right when it bloomed once a year! How did they know the smell? This sounds like it has interesting notes and I would love to try it. I have yet to try the Grandiflora line. I am in the USA. Thanks for the draw.

  • I love this quote: “Saskia has always been inspired by ephemeral flowers, which put on a spectacular show of colour and scent to attract a pollinator during their short lives.” This is what I think about perfumes, that they are all ephemeral beauties and our love for them makes their life longer and meaningful.
    I’d love to sniff Queen of the Night and other Grandiflora fragrances.
    I live in the EU.

  • carole macleod says:

    Oh my-I enjoyed every bit of this! The pink moon might be my favorite thing. Or the shot of Christain Dior with the Roudnitskas-that is a very steep incline. Mrs Roudnitska’s shoes are so elegant. The quote that will stay with me is Saskia’s” the voice contact is very important to evaluate the way of expressing an accord”. She is so right. Like the Voix Humane, in perfume form. I live in Nova Scotis and i do have a favorite Grandiflora fragrance-the Michel version. And I have to tell you one more thing-i wrote to M. Roudnitska, to tell him how much I loved the fragrance, and …he wrote me back. It was an elegant thing for him to do, and I appreciate it.
    Thank you, Clayton, for the excellent review. It’s like a story, with beautiful illustrations. Have a good weekend,
    Carole

  • Indolic notes are always a big mystery to me. Some of them go very well with my skin, some turn out to be way too invasive and unpleasant. I hope in this case it will be pretty, because the flower is so beautiful. I have never heard of Grandiflora before, but I would love to test all of the fragrances from this house – they sound great.

    (EU)

  • When I hear the name of Bertrand Duchaufour, I can be sure that I will either love to wear the fragrance or regret that it’s not wearable for me – and still admire the wonderful work (Majda Bekkali Fusion Sacree). The majority of his perfumes that I’ve tested fall into the category “love and wear”, like Aedes de Venustas, Sienne L’Hiver, CdG Harrissa, Mechant Loup, Dzongkha, Timbuktu, Enchanted Forest, Oud Shamash… so I look forward to testing Queen of the Night with a lot of excitement. Although most of the scents I listed are not very flowery, this time I believe that Saskia, being a co-author of the composition, has made it as flowery and rich as possible.
    I would be happy to win this bottle 🙂 I live in the EU.

  • The pictures attached to this review helped make this very covetable. The details, too, though… “syringa” is lilac, yes?! I was also tickled by this quote – “For me, indol is like tar or asphalt. It has a ‘road’ note. So it’s a key part of the mineral desert effect…” Interesting! I have never made the tar-asphalt connection but I will have to think about it next time I get a noseful of indolic florals. I have tried and loved plenty of Duchaufour’s compositions, but I have not tried anything from the Glandiflora line. I would be thrilled to try this perfume. The mineral accord is exciting…. the only other “mineral” perfume I’m very familiar with is Terre d’Hermes, which is fantastic on my fiance. Anyway, enough rambling from me… thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • The description of the notes and accords was great! Amazing read altogether. I haven’t tried any scents from this house, but the bottle looks beautiful. I’m in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • Hi Minteacup. Bertrand clarified – the syringa accord references English mock orange flower (Philadelphus) instead of Syringa vulgaris (lilac). Thanks for commenting! Clayton