In 1996, Giorgio Armani and perfumer Alberto Morillas made fragrance history. Love it or hate it, Acqua di Gio Pour Homme (the original) is one of the most popular designer/mainstream men’s scents ever released. The way Sr. Morillas took a myriad of notes, including fruits and flowers, and wove them together seamlessly was (and still is) a true work of art. Many reviewers have likened this particular scent to a symphony and for good reason. I wore this scent as my signature, almost exclusively, for almost three years and it is one of the very few scents I  consider “perfect”. So then, how does one improve on perfection?

Alberto Morillas

Late last year, the house of Armani released Acqua di Gio Essenza and, much to my delight, it was an eau de parfum concentration. THAT is an improvement in itself. Sr. Morillas also signed this version and for that I am exceedingly grateful. Who better to retool a legend than the man who made it? On reading up on this, it was to be a more  updated, longer lasting version of the original with more oriental notes in the dry down. This made sense as “essenza” means, basically, the essence; and EDPs are generally stronger and last longer with a bit less projection.

Part of me was very excited to try this and another part was a little afraid to smell it (after the build-up) and be disappointed. The only thing that disappointed me was that (even in the large city closest to me) no one in my area carried this. However, I managed to get a sample sent to me and my fears were groundless and I will be getting my own bottle very soon!!

The opening is really quite simple with the classic duo of grapefruit and bergamot in front splashed with a slightly salty watery accord that adds a subtle hint of sweetness to the citrus. It reminds me a bit of DIOR’s Eau Sauvage at this point, without all the greens. Gone are the soft creamy blossoms of neroli and the indolic hedione of the original’s opening. At this point it is much less fruity sweet and more bright and crisp. Sometimes, less IS more.

The heart keeps the floral vibe of the original alive, as a drier than usual jasmine is accompanied by paradisone (a molecule meant to synthesize a floral blend) and a blend of warm basil and soft sage replace the sharp intensity of the rosemary in its predecessor. Yes, this is still Acqua di Gio only this is a little more mature and refined: just as charming and elegant, only a bit more focused and serious. Essenza says more with fewer words and doesn’t need to speak quite so loudly. The blend of flowers and herbs here is almost magical. Sometimes it is like a floral wind and other times it is warm and verdant. Projection is a bit less at this point, but it still radiates masculinity and a soft sexiness.

Herbs Drying by Kenneth LePoidevin

Where the 1996 version was a bit “top heavy” (as far as notes and sillage) with a concise woody musky dry finish, this newer interpretation is anchored more firmly to a “wider” base. The musk, cedar and patchouli are still here, along with amber. 2012’s version extrapolates the warmth of the amber by pairing ambroxan with ambergris giving it a uniquely arid sweetness and develops the finish with hints of pepper, a slightly smoked vetiver and a dash of clary sage keeps the verdant herbaceous heart notes alive. The result is not necessarily more “oriental”; but it is definitely more fully developed. It lays closer to the skin and yet still manages to give off a soft and sinewy strength that is not too loud or too pushy.

With so many designer perfumes and colognes having seasonal and yearly flankers these days, it is so refreshing that the first flanker of Acqua di Gio came out sixteen years after its original release. In my opinion, it was worth the wait! Where I was a guy in my late twenties when this originally came out, it was perfect for me. Now, that I am in my early forties, I think Essenza may just be a wee bit better (for me anyway) at this point in my scented journey.  I jokingly say that when I first met and fell head over heels for the original, I “broke up” with Drakkar Noir. The new version is like seeing an old lover, years later, and remembering why you fell in love. Then you have to wonder why you ever parted ways in the first place. Despite my often cynical view of flankers, in general, this does not only does justice to the original; it also adds a bit of grace and sophistication to one of the most iconic male scents of the twentieth century. This, I imagine, was not an easy thing to do, and I tip my hat to Alberto Morillas!! Sillage: good then closer. Longevity: very good.

Disclosure: Review based on a carded spray sample courtesy of Lord & Taylor.

–John Reasinger, Editor