a collage from the Symbolorum, The Secret Wisdom of Emblems by Michelyn

“Symbols are a powerful medium because they speak primarily not to our rational self but rather to our intuitive and emotional self.” ~ author Mandy Aftel, from her introduction to Symbolorum, The Secret Wisdom of Emblems

As symbols speak to our soul and emotions, so does perfume and aroma. It is not surprising that we may find them entwined throughout history, culture, time and space.

 

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes

When award-winning natural perfumer and author Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes first shared her fascination with scholarly antique books with me, I experienced an unaffected spiritual convergence. Her fascination with very old illustrated texts commenced with a thirst for knowledge; a desire to wrest the more esoteric meanings and usage of herbs and fragrant plants. In these magnificent tomes (not always written in English), she immersed herself in botanical lore based upon myth, alchemy, and practical application – all of which fueled her burgeoning interest in fragrance and influenced her ongoing development as a perfumer. One botanical text referenced the Symbolorum et Emblematum – upon which Symbolorum, The Secret Wisdom of Emblems is based. Written by botanist and polymath Joachim Camerarius the Younger, it was originally published between the years of 1590-1604. Its intricate and mesmerizing illustrated emblems consisted of black and white woodcuts which included flora and fauna; they depicted scenarios which challenged the imagination and were open to a variety of interpretations. These images were tiny; above each was a specific Latin dictum pertaining to the picture – and below, a short explanatory commentary. The opposite page presented an exposition on the lesson to be assimilated. Great philosophers and poets were quoted in abundance (Ovid, Horace, Pliny, Cicero, Homer, Aesop, etc.) in an effort to help the reader better understand the maxim and its application to daily life.

“As the mind explores the symbol, it is led to ideas that lie beyond the grasp of reason.” ~ Carl Jung, from Man and His Symbols

 

 

Page 196

Mandy became smitten with this extremely rare archival book: she purchased it, had it translated, and enlarged its images. That was only the beginning. Punctuation needed correction. Mandy, as you may well know, simply by perusing her website – is extremely sensitive to color and loves to colorize drawings by very detailed painting with fine watercolor pencils. She had her work cut out for her, both in choosing only 100 emblems to begin with – and then breathing new life and meaning into them with her addition of subtle and vibrant hues. All of the nuances matter; they enliven the book’s pedagogical content. These subtleties also contribute to the magical, mysterious nature inherent in emblems: Mandy lovingly refers to them as “a literary cabinet of curiosities”.

Symbolorum is true to its origins – and after an expository introduction, the categories are classified as plants, quadrupeds, birds, and fish. This is where the symbols and emblems sing. The woodcuts reveal some animals which may only exist in legend and oral history, as envisioned in the bestiaries of old; others are familiar to our contemporary consciousness. There are qualities, virtues, shortcomings which are ascribed to each as the moral thrust of the tale unfolds upon the page. These illustrations are riveting and command your careful scrutiny; in short, they are complex and beautiful. The introductory portion dedicated to plants is frequently enmeshed with aroma and its significance through allegory. In the following chapters, beasts assume a preternatural significance all their own. Mandy’s additional contribution of notes which are pertinent to each symbol are welcome and concise – and they are hers alone, separate from the original text.

 “I rise again more beautiful for being crushed” (random page 66 Michelyn opened)

In many ways, Symbolorum can be seen as a divinatory and life counsel tool, similar to the Tarot, which was extremely popular at that time. One may open it to any random page, read, and uncover a life lesson to ponder. Symbolorum is a repository of salient virtues, caveats and admonitions, yet it is so much more. Minuscule pearls of truth pepper its pages with practical guidance. Many of the virtues extolled concern living a life of considered moderation; an admiration for circumspection and balance in all things; and the realization that, in order to achieve further development of our character and obtain wisdom, the path is frequently arduous but well worth the effort. Some of the principles which reoccur are these: a) Be clever – but not too clever; b) Master your emotions and do not be ruled by them; c) Never underestimate the small. Overall, Symbolorum praises perseverance, hard work, and self-mastery.

“There is a hunger in the modern world for a more enchanted, less rational view of nature. This is evident from our interest in spiritualism, astrology, tarot, alternative healing, which have their roots in magical practices. It’s also obvious from things that aren’t overtly about “magic” as those books and films – in our enduring love of art and music, for example; in the flourishing of natural perfumery, where I watch students lose themselves in the materials I once did (and still do). And in how the visitors to my museum become entranced in the materials and artifacts that put them in touch with this earlier world.” ~ Mandy Aftel

In gifting us this volume, Mandy has provided us with a window into our collective past through which we may revisit our values with a mystical eye as well as a measure of pragmatism. It is both a visionary reference and companion to cherish.

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

 

We at ÇaFleureBon feel privileged to be able to offer, courtesy of her unfailing largesse – one autographed copy of Symbolorum, The Secret Wisdom of Emblems for one registered reader worldwide. The giveaway is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what sparked your interest in Ida’s review, and why you would like to own Symbolorum. Draw ends 12/22/2026

Mandy Aftel received a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent in the Hall of Fame category from Michelyn, Ida awarded Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert a ÇaFleureBon Top 10 perfume of 2021, Cepes and Tuberose was inducted into our ÇaFleureBon Hall of Fame by Ermano, Einsof’s review of Fragrant: The Secret Life Of Scent by Mandy Aftel, Ida’s review of The Museum of Scent: Exploring the Curious and Wondrous World of Fragrance

Please read Michelyn’s Interview with Mandy Aftel here

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