
J’s image of Neandertal is™ and was™
Neandertal is™ and was™ offers us a conundrum of composition while creating a conversation between differing forms of intelligence and learning, one based in perfumery traditions and the other machine learning through data analysis. Artist Kentaro Yamada, Neandertal’s creative director, gives us food for thought along with two beautiful perfumes to baffle our noses with trying to decipher which was composed by living perfumers and which was composed by AI. Each were given the same brief, but here’s the twist– we don’t know what that was or who did what. Even the names could be a double bluff one speaking to the traditional past while the other the endless now. There definitely is a continuity from the brand with Neandertal’s with is™ feeling like the light and was™ the dark.

Artist Kentaro Yamada, Neandertal creative director courtesy of Neandertal
Poetry and sculpture feel similar to me, both are a refining of materials, shaping them to form the artist desires. I’ve yet to see AI make worthwhile art, it’s been best used as a tool and the art here is definitely in sculptor Kentaro Yamada’s concept. It does like all my favourite artworks do, moving from being an object to admire, yes both Neandertal is™ and was™ are housed in beautiful stone spear like flacons the art has to get your attention first, to something that makes you question the world differently. Yes I’m dying to know what the brief was. I’ve been wearing both separately and together, one on each side while making notes and thinking about this clever concept.

Neandertal is™ courtesy of Neandertal.
A plume of aromas blooms from your skin as is™ hits it. Bitter herbal greens grow like powdery vines with dusty spices forming glowing buds that soon burst with sweet alien flowers. Chocolate and fig give is™ a delicious richness that plays in lovely contrast to the metallic shimmering neon like greens that wrap around you feeling expansive and airy. is™ glistens as if it’s composed in transparent layers with the slight darkness coming from rich chocolate and resins, who quietly making themselves known. Violet gives is™ an abstracted floral feel, it’s modulated and manipulated by musks adding a fuzzy flicked texture to the shimmering sheen. Vetiver’s rooty warmth is felt but its scent gives body to the perfumes invisible form.

Neandertal is™ courtesy of Neandertal.
is™ softens into a softly smoky woods in its dry down. There’s a cosy warmth from vetiver still joined by sandalwood and resins with a lovely myrrh like sweetness as the fig and chocolate notes blur into abstraction. Both is™ and was™ share this resinous myrrh like sweetness with varying intensities, with was™ feeling like the darkness to is™’s light. Gentle suede like textures and clean musks continue the minimal futurist feel of is™, as its openings shimmer is dulled slightly. It still has that contemporary architectural feel of sleekness shaped from modern materials. Feeling futuristic, clean like some strange flower that doesn’t exist, sculpted by a 3D model maker and dusted with a fine layer of powder, leaving you with this powdery smokiness incense with a kaleidoscope of toned down colours like light is shining through muslin.

Neandertal was™ courtesy of Neandertal.
Neanderthal’s was™ opens with an array of spicy notes, it’s woody and warm with clove and nutmeg giving a dry spice to the cedar woods. Its contrasted by cardamom bring a cool airy spiciness that merges with bergamot while quietly foreshadowing the rather stunning powdery iris that forms a veil over was™. Geranium adds green tinges to the spices while bringing out more rosy floral facets to the iris, Symrise’s Diviniris in this case giving a very orris powderiness feeling like velvet warmed by skin. Cedar teases out more of its powderiness while more body from its woody side. This combination softens the edge of the labdanum and cistus making was™ into a stunning darkly smooth incense. It’s slightly mineralic, as if the sparks from flint have joined the scent of the incense smoke rich with earthy patchouli and spices.

Neandertal was™ courtesy of Neandertal.
was™’s dry down softens into more familiar territory with resinous woody spices turning ambery with a tender softness lingering from the powdery Diviniris as it merges with sandalwood giving was™ a more human feel. There’s a beautiful purr to the dry down on my skin, with the myrrh’s sweetness giving it an allure. It’s smooth yet that bite of amber gives was™ a lovely dark feel with bitter Yerba matè tea giving a subtle bitter facet. Its use of textural contrasts is lovely to experience throughout the wear, with a subtle ember of clove burning at its heart. A smouldering smoky woody amber.

courtesy of Neandertal.
Neanderthal’s is™ and was™ duo feel like the yin and yang of each other. was™’s darkness from the more raw resinous earth feels like incense smouldering with a dark smoke veil. While in comparison the soft shimmering white incense smoke plume of is™ flickers with sweeter tones like a digital dust in the air feeling pure yet full of complex light. The darkness of earth expanding into the digital light. Neither scent gives us a clue was to which is composed by AI or by perfumers Isaac Sinclair, Fanny Grau and Nikolaj Koralevich of Symrise.

Neandertal is™ and was™ perfumers Nikolaj Koralevich, Fanny Grau Isaac Sinclair and Symrise’s Philyra 2.0 AI.
AI is something I’ve been thinking about for a long time, it’s sold as an invisible entity, but in reality it’s an embodied machine sensing network with a physicality that can be at the scale of a city. It’s yet to “think” rather it’s a data cruncher that offers endless possibilities yet it breathes too, cooling fans blowing out hot air, as circuit boards warm like our bodies. It’s tactical and noisy with a face that’s greedy for input through images, sounds and texts. And it’s these possible texts and images from the briefs that have allowed Symrise’s Philyra 2.0 to composed one of these two perfumes. There is also the thought that Philyra 2.0 is like a hyper version of a perfumery student, one that learns in seconds what usually takes years. What might be missing are those beautiful flaws that make us human, happy accidents and odd pairings from our limited knowledge making magic, rather than AI’s expanded database. AI is all about input, a good data set will yield good results where as a bad data set can lead down rabbit holes of conspiracy theories and fake news. Kind of like the world we live in currently where facts are ruptured by fiction blurring us into questioning everything. Kentaro Yamada understands all these conceptual folds using it brilliantly to question what is human after all…
Both is™ and was™ are beautiful easy to wear perfumes, that compliment each other in lovely ways, although it’s Kentaro Yamada’s concept that elevates them to art. I still have no idea which was composed by AI but if you twist my arm I’d hedge my bets it’s was™ . Could the Yerba Matè be a quite nod to the programmer’s choice of drink, Club Matè? is™ is my favourite of the two as I love the powdery futuristic meditative floral feel but both are amazing to wear. This is definitely the best use of AI in perfumery I’ve experienced and I’m excited to see what Kentaro Yamada does next!
Notes is™: Nutmeg, Myrtle, Galbanum, Bergamot, Fig, Metallic notes, Violet, Dark chocolate, Suede, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk, Peru balsam, Vanilla.
Notes was™: Yerba mate, Bergamot, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Geranium, Clove, Cistus, Diviniris©, Vanilla, Cedarwood, Vetiver, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Styrax, Amber, Musk.
J Wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist & olfactive writer.
Disclosure: Neandertal is™ and was™ were sent for J for review, thoughts and nose are his own.

J’s images of Neandertal is™ and was™
Thanks to the generosity of Neandertal we have a choice of a bottle of either Neandertal is™ or was™ for one registered reader from EU, US or UK. Following Neandertal Perfume on Instagram will give you a second entry, PLEASE SAY SO IN YOUR COMMENT. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on J’s review, which you choose and where you live. Draw closes 12/19/2025
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