J’s image of Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse
The perfumes from Naomi Goodsir’s house never fail to ignite a sense of excitement and optimism within me. Naomi and Renaud Coutaudier, along with their talented perfumers, are truly redefining the boundaries of perfumery, reintroducing both artistry and concept into the mix. Their creations don’t conform to conventional beauty; instead, they embody a wild elegance and uniqueness, where shadows and light intertwine in a captivating and extraordinary dance. Bois d’Ascèse and the darkly delicious Cuir Velours were their inaugural offerings and Renaud says it best that “in 2012, we came to our first tradeshow ever, with only two perfumes, Cuir Velours & Bois d’Ascèse, both by a total unknown, independent (at the time) young and talented perfumer, named Julien Rasquinet.”
Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse courtesy of the brand and perfumer Julien Rasquinet courtesy of the perfumer
There’s a song by the band Low called Closer from the album Things We Lost in the Fire that I think of when I smell Bois d’Ascèse’s wild smoke, created as an homage to Naomi’s father and to her wooden chapel, in New South Wales, Australia. It’s imbued with smoke, a material I can find rather hard to wear, but Julien Rasquinet handles this smoke in a beautiful way in Bois d’Ascèse. There’s a short blast of cade’s power in the opening, that dark intense charred smokiness of destruction buts tamed quickly with tobacco and whisky creating an intoxicating atmosphere where danger feels distant yet its shadow lingers. Somalia incense brings a freshness with a cool citrus breeze with soft abstract sketches of pine trees and other green foliage. Tobacco tinges these green shades with a more earthy brown tone, deep and rich with subtle raisin dried fruits nuances, it’s darkly decadent especially with a dram of whisky giving a subtle fuel to the unseen fire. The whisky in the opening has this cooling feel, like that first taste, and its alcohol vapours coating your mouth as smoky woods slowly start to gradually unveil their intricate layers. The sweeter aspects of the tobacco beautifully highlight the darker tones, resulting in a smooth, velvety smoke that envelops you. Its got a freshness too, a sweeten smokiness the keeps the opening vibrant and alive.
Sidney Nolan – Landscape, 1947 8, Ripolin on board, unsigned, verso inscribed ‘Sidney Nolan In The Northern Territory/1947/Property of Maie Casey’, 59 x 89 cm
There’s something beautifully wild about Bois d’Ascèse, I get flicker of horse manes with there buttery oiliness, subtle cacao and dark smooth leather its a dark wildness like a thousand ideas are forming as you ride into this depths of the this smoked delight. This wildness reminds me of the Australian painter, Sidney Nolan, especially his landscape paintings of the Australian outback and territories. It’s the wild mark making and expressive qualities in his brush and palette strokes, along with his tonal colours that seem to resonate with elements of the first movement of Bois d’Ascèse.
Photograph of Australian artist Sidney Nolan, taken by Albert Tucker Wikipedia.
In the heart of Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse, there are moments when it feels as if you’ve stepped into a whisky cask room, surrounded by countless barrels. As the lid is lifted from one, a cool, shimmering essence of ethereal vapours seems to rise from your skin. This is the Somalia incense again, with its refreshing pine and citrus notes that linger like a quiet thought beginning to form, inviting a meditation on life as the scent of charred wood hangs in the air like a ghostly presence. For me, Bois d’Ascèse embodies a meditative quality; it mirrors the experience of savouring a fine whisky, allowing it to unfold and reveal its depths Similar to the Japanese art of Kõdõ, listening to the incense and crafting a story or idea of how it’s composition speaks to the world and you. The initial wildness gives way to a serene, Zen-like atmosphere; soft terpenes and gentle camphor deepen the vapours, intensifying the sensation as an idea begins to take form with subtle balsamic resins giving a gentle styrax leather nuance.
Charcoal image courtesy of the brand.
The dry down of Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse is truly magic. The initial heavy, dark smoke has dissipated, revealing a soft, powdery cedar wood that gently smoulders, creating a smooth, dark incense smoke with a silvery quality. A hint of charred amber charcoal introduces a mineral essence to the incense, from which this delicate, silvery smoke emerges. Oakmoss lingers, providing a polished, velvety layer over the charcoal, reminiscent of obsidian stone. Balsamic resins contribute to this lustrous effect, enhanced by a dram of Scottish whisky that adds a sleekness. The deep peatiness within the incense smoke evokes memories of a forgotten landscape, where honeyed heather and dried moss softly intertwine with the smokiness. There’s a subtle seaweed note hidden in the whisky, beautifully balanced by the vanilla in the amber, while the oakmoss in the base rounds out the darker elements, creating a smooth and harmonious blend.
Naomi Goodsir silhouette of Naomi courtesy of the brand.
As you inhale this incense, it’s feels like the smoke’s trails slowly transform into the whisky’s vapours, that scent left in the glass and haunting your mouth as you breathe it in. A 10-12 year old Laphroaig or Talisker of a similar age would be the closest to this dry down and is close to what I enjoy when drinking Scottish whisky, the opening is making me think of the smokiness of Bruichladdich’s Port Charlotte, that smokiness with the tobacco fruits and fresher pine is all there. Bois d’Ascèse’s incense lingers throughout the evening, evolving into a complex tapestry of smoky nuances and charred wood, infused with subtle spices.
Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse is an extraordinary smoky incense, darkly enchanting and distinctive, yet it settles into a rich, contemplative aroma that brims with fresh ideas and a hint of intrigue. This is me to a “T” in the colder months, a big big love!
Notes: tobacco, whisky, Somalian incense, cade wood, amber, cistus labdanum.
Disclosure: Naomi Goodsir Bois d’Ascèse was sent to J to review. Thoughts and nose are his own.
J @wearescentient, Senior Editor, artist and olfactive writer.
Thanks to Naomi Goodsir, we have a 50ml bottle of Bois d’Ascèse for one registered reader USA of EU. To be eligible, please leave a comment about what appeals to you about J’s review, where you live, and which is your favourite Naomi Goodsir fragrance. Draw closes 10/3/24.
Please also read: ÇaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery Naomi Goodsir & Renaud Coutaudier with Michelyn Camen here.
Ermano and Michelyn CaFleureBon Best Fragrance of the Year Corpus Equus 2021, Ermano and Michelyn CaFleureBon Best of Scent 2017 for Creative Direction and Nuit de Bakelite
Julien Rasquinet, his life story and his thoughts on working with Naomi Goodsir and Renaud Coutaudier in our CaFleureBon Young Perfumer series here
Nuit de Bakelite is a CaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece, review by Ermano Picco here
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