Memo Paris Madurai by Olya Bar©
Madurai is the cultural capital of Tamil Nadu in southern India: it is called “Thoonga Nagaram”, meaning “the city that never sleeps”. Here, in this bustling temple town with its colorful markets, jasmines which are coveted the world over are found in abundance. The name Madurai may have a double meaning – one which is derived from a 2nd C. BCE inscription which refers to the city as matiray, a walled city; the other, from Madhura (sweetness), the divine nectar which showered the city as it descended from the deity Shiva’s hair. Memo Paris Madurai is their latest fragrant release and Dubai-based Givaudan perfumer Gaël Montero’s fond memories of the sleepless city.
Parvati and Lord Shiva via istock
Madurai malli (as the jasmine is known) plays a key role in the city’s culture, history and economy dating back to at least 300 BC. It has been cultivated for hundreds of years and is worn/utilized in so many rituals that it has become deeply entrenched in Indian life. There exist over 300 varieties of jasmine, and the flower goes by a number of names, dependent upon the region from whence it comes: chameli, motia, jaati, mallige, juhi, mogra or ‘moonlight in the grove’. How vast the scope of this devotional blossom. The most erotic association might well be that of jasmine and deities: the comely fish-eyed goddess (in this instance, the descriptor is a compliment – referring to the slender, alluring shape of the goddess’ eyes) Meenakshi Amman (a manifestation of Parvati) is said to adorn herself with mallipoo (jasmine flowers) in preparation for congress with her consort, Lord Shiva.
Jasmine and Tumeric via Unsplash
In Memo Paris Madurai, two potent jasmines are incorporated – a richly indolic Egyptian jasmine and the greener, honeyed-tea floral freshness of jasmine sambac. Imagine the incremental headiness provided by a lush Indian tuberose; then augment this seductive aspect with an explosively ripe peach absolute which highlights the fruity facets of flowers. A brief touch of tonicity is contributed by zesty bergamot and herbal bittersweet, winey clary sage. The earthiness of turmeric is warm, woody and lightly spiced; pungent tagetes is sweetly herbal-with-a-bite and provides a powerfully fruity (some say green apple-like) tone. Sandalwood grounds Madurai, but in no way resembles the classic attar in which jasmine is wed to sandalwood via the distillation of the two. A suede accord serves to meld components into a softer effect during the drydown.
Madurai (unsplash)
Memo Paris Madurai commences as an energetic perfume – bursting at the seams with color, light, riotous enthusiasm. It reads initially as a powerhouse, perhaps a bit too effusive for comfort’s sake. Over time, this perfume softens and assumes a gentler mien which is highly attractive. Memo Paris Madurai is a personality plus fragrance: bold, wantonly floral, and unabashed.
Notes: turmeric essence, sambac jasmine, absolute peach, Italian bergamot oil, clary sage oil, Indian tuberose absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, tagete oil from Madagascar, Australian sandalwood oil, suede accord.
Tester flacon kindly provided by Europerfumes – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Art direction Olya Bar
Memo Paris Madurai via the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Twisted Lily we are offering 75ml of Memo Paris Madurai tester to one registered reader in the U.S. You must register here for your comment to count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what interested you about Ida’s review. Do you have a favorite Memo Paris perfume? Draw closes 12/23/2022 and the winner will be announced within two weeks after.
Please read Clara Molloy of Memo Paris’ Creative Directors in Perfumery article for CaFleureBon here
Available at Twisted Lily
This is our Privacy and Draw Rules Policy
Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebonofficial @idameister @memoparis @gael.perfumer @official_europerfumes @twistedlily360 @olyabar
We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.