Matiere Premiere Radical Rose, Encens Suave, Bois d’Ébène Reviews (Aurélien Guichard) + The Three You Should Be Wearing Draw

Matiere Premiere review Radical Rose, Ensense Suave and Bois d'Ebene

Matiere Premiere Radical Rose, Encens Suave, Bois d’Ébène  (photo: Despina Veneti©)

It’s been a year since Senior Perfumer Aurélien Guichard (known for his beautiful creations for Robert Piguet, Bond No. 9, Thierry Mugler, Narciso Rodriguez, Issey Miyake and Gucci, among others) launched his own fragrance brand Matiere Premiere, motivated by the wish to showcase iconic natural ingredients of the finest quality – in his own words, “make the ingredients visible”. His first six fragrances – Neroli Oranger, Cologne Cédrat, Parisian Musk, Santal Austral, Encens Suave and Bois d’Ébène – were constructed so as to unveil various aromatic facets of each one’s respective star raw material: Tunisian orange blossom absolute, Italian citron oil, Peruvian ambrette seed, Australian sandalwood oil, Somalian incense resin and Paraguayan guaiac wood oil; his latest fragrance, Radical Rose, is a tribute to the emblematic May rose of Grasse, and, according to the brand, includes the highest concentration of rose centifolia absolute.

Takasago Senior Perfumer Aurélien Guichard, founder/perfumer of Matiere Premiere (photo courtesy of Matiere Premiere©)

Born and raised in the Grassoise valley, in a family of a long tradition in perfumery (his ancestors were cultivating flowers for the fragrance industry, while his father is none other than the renowned Master Perfumer Jean Guichard, Director of Givaudan’s Perfumery School), Aurélien Guichard’s choice to found a brand dedicated to noble raw materials seems as natural as his palette for Matiere Premiere. All seven scents shine with the radiant quality of their natural ingredients, as handled by a talented, self-confident perfumer who knows when to add some unexpected touches to resplendent aromatic harmonies. My choice of the “three you should be wearing” was mainly made with the winter season in mind; I enjoyed all seven fragrances, either wearing them individually or exploring their great layering potential.

Matiere Premiere Encens Suave review

Matiere Premiere Encens Suave (photo/digital effects: Despina Veneti©)

Encens Suave (2019): Aurélien Guichard’s idea to create a different, “addictive and carnal” incense-centered fragrance, was translated into a balmy, resinous scent with a distinctive, grown-up gourmand character. Tears of spicy, coniferous and highly aromatic Somalian incense construct the core of the fragrance, but – rather than lit and fuming – they feel infused in splendid Laotian benzoin (lactonic, dulcet-toned) and Spanish labdanum (leathery, ambery). With the emphasis placed on the main ingredient’s sensuality, Matiere Premiere Encens Suave is certainly no cathedral incense scent; however, the fragrance’s sensuousness does communicate a certain mystical dimension, alluding to the incense’s eternally dual nature. The first aromatic layer of balsamic goodness meets a second, sophisticated gourmand one, combining inviting Madagascar vanilla and energizing coffee from Venezuela. The mellow smokiness of the incense blends with the toasted aroma of Arabica coffee beans, while the aphrodisiac vanilla melts into the sweet resinousness of the balms and oils, adding a delicious, modern twist to a composition built around a raw material “as old as time”.

Officially listed notes: Incense, Benzoin, Labdanum, Coffee, Vanilla.

 

Matiere Premiere Bois d’Ébène by Aurelian Guichard

Matiere Premiere Bois d’Ébène (photo/digital effects: Despina Veneti©)

Bois d’Ébène (2019): Guaiac wood is an ingredient that mesmerizes me: its complex olfactory profile combines intense smokiness and balsamic sweetness, along with fascinating undertones that range from citrusy to rosy, and from honeyed to lactonic. In Matiere Premiere Bois d’Ébène this precious aromatic wood shines – in all its dark charm – right from the start, as the fragrance’s indisputable protagonist. Mr. Guichard wisely chose to showcase his star raw material in a “dark, ambery wood” composition, highlighting its multifaceted olfactive properties with the use of some other exceptional naturals. Indian cypriol contributes mystical, rooty and oudy smokiness, while Indonesian patchouli provides a deep layer of grounding earthiness (with hints of tobacco and chocolate). The ambery/woody facets of the guaiac are enriched with a proper amber accord (discreet enough to compliment the vanillic woods without antagonizing them), as well as Brazilian cabreuva oil, whose characteristic woodiness of sweet, nutty and floral nuances is that extra touch that makes an already sensuous, highly enjoyable composition truly intriguing.

Officially listed notes: Guaiac Wood, Juniper, Cabreuva, Cypriol, Patchouli.

 

Matiere Premiere Radical Rose review

 

Matiere Premiere Radical Rose (photo/digital effects: Despina Veneti©)

Radical Rose (2020): In 2016, Mr. Guichard started growing his own organic May roses in Grasse, resulting in the production of his very first batch of rose centifolia absolute last year. As you may know, this precious raw material is a dense, viscous liquid of intense, concentrated rosiness; reconstructing an actual blooming rose requires a skilled perfumer breathing some air back into the absolute. In Matiere Premiere Radical Rose, the flower’s freshness and intrinsic fruity/lemony undertones are aptly reinstated (my guess, with geranium, citronellol, a hint of fruits and airy musks or cashmeran). The perfumer further succeeds in his creative goal to highlight the “bright, spicy facets” of the rose, as well as enrich it with “dark, woody nuances”. Hay-like saffron beams illuminate the flower and Jamaican pimento berries add their clove/cinnamon/nutmeg-like spiciness, with the suede-leathery Andalusian labdanum acting as the composition’s catalyst: its synergy with the Indonesian heart of patchouli makes for an elegant woody base, while its alchemy with the emerging vanilla creates a long ambery drydown. This is rose de mai dressed in its most glowing amber costume, transformed from dewy ingénue to voluptuous charmer…

Officially listed notes: Rose Centifolia, Pimento Berries, Saffron, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vanilla.

Disclaimer: I’d like to thank Matiere Premiere for my Custom Set of 6, plus the 6ml flacon of Rose Radical. The opinions are my own.

– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor

Best Matiere Premiere perfumes

Matiere Premiere Custom Set of 3 (photo courtesy of Matiere Premiere©)

Thanks to the generosity of Matiere Premiere, we have a draw for a Custom Set 3 containing three 6ml flacons with spray caps of Encens Suave, Bois d’Ébène and Radical Rose (value: 80€), for one registered reader in USA, EU or UK. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s article, if you are familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances and/or Aurélien Guichard’s work, which of the three appeals to you most and where you live. Draw closes 11/28/2020.

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57 comments

  • Brad Woolslayer says:

    I enjoyed reading the descriptions of these 3 fragrances. Encens Suave sounds pretty nice with the notes of coffee and vanilla. I live in Maryland USA.

  • drjedi says:

    Out of Encens Suave, Bois d’Ébène and Radical Rose – Bois d’Ébène appeals to me just because I am not very familiar with guaiac wood, though the other two also are very appealing. It is interesting that Aurélien Guichard is focusing on highlighting a single ingredient, whereas the common trend is to add more and more and make things more and more complex and convoluted. Both can be good, just as one may enjoy a single person playing piano as well as enjoy (or NOT enjoy) an orchestra with hundreds of instruments (yours truly has had such an experience – traumatic experience with a metropolitan symphony orchestra, and a healing one with a one-person/one-instrument concert). Anyway, I haven’t tried anything by Matiere Premiere, yet, but would love to, hopefully if I am lucky enough to win this draw. Thanks for the review and the draw. Writing from the USA.

  • NiceVULady says:

    I’m not familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances and I’m so glad that you brought them to my attentions. I think Radical Rose particularly appeals to me and I’m surprised as rose is not always a favorite when compared with other notes. I like what Despina has described that Mr Guichard has done with it. Thank you so much for a most interesting review and thank you to Matiere Premiere for making this draw possible.

  • Kirsten says:

    This set sounds like a slice of heaven! I think they all sound so comforting and perfect for a cold Colorado winter! Thankbyou for the review and wonderful opportunity! I’m in Colorado USA

  • Dami says:

    I am not familiar with these fragrances but I’ve seen several fragrance lovers talk about them. I like the idea that each one highlights and enhances a special raw material. Radical Rose sounds stunning and I love this set. I am in the USA.

  • AleksCipri says:

    Aurélien Guichard has very very very impressive portfolio of fragrances he has done for many major brands. I do know he launched his brand and I was eager to try them but I somehow didn’t do that yet. I love the three strong fragrances in the Custom set 3. These are my type of fragrances and notes. Out of the three I think I might like Encens Suave the most. Btw Despina’s description of all three fragrances is marvelous. This year I really feel like smelling incensy fragrances. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • Shamrock1313 says:

    Never tried the house, but by the review, sounds like some beautiful compositions for the cooler weather.
    Great description by Despina.
    Pennsylvania USA

  • Brian says:

    I enjoyed this article for many reasons, e.g. I enjoyed learning more about the perfumer Aurelien Guichard and his perfume house Matiere premiere. I’ve certainly heard of some of the perfumes that he’s created over the years. All three of the fragrances seem to appeal to me very much but I might be most interested in trying Encens Suave. I live in MD., U.S.A.

  • FC says:

    I have been aware of Aurelien’s work since he started working closely with Robert Pigeut when the brand was re-launched about a decade ago or so. I was also aware of his dad and love many perfumes from him, particularly, Paco Rabanna La Nuit. Eau Suave and Bois d’Ebene are particularly intriguing compositions. USA.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I loved Despina’s description of the complexity of guaiac wood, an ingredient which, I agree, is so intriguing and nuanced. I’d love to see its take in this line! I love seeing the custom mini sets too and, winning the draw or not, I’ll definitely be exploring that for this line! I love Chinatown and the Narciso scents. I’m not yet familiar with these scents. Thanks for this generous draw! I’m in the US.

  • Trinity33 says:

    Matiere Premiere fragrances sounds like they were created using the finest quality ingredients available. Each note seems to be impeccably sourced which is no surprise given Mr Guichard’s heritage. I’m most drawn to Bois d’Ebene although I do love a good rose scent. They seem like they would layer well. I’m very familiar with Mr Guichard’s creation, Bond No. 9 Chinatown. Commenting from MD, USA.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    thanks for the draw and the review. I know very wekll the perfume creations of Monsieur Guichard, he is a real Artist and has the making of pefume in his blood. Radical Rose sounds wonderfully but Encens Suave sounds very interesting. I have to test them.

  • sanvean79 says:

    Thank you Despina, I enjoyed finding out about a perfumer and a line I knew nothing about. They all sound like honest, solid compositions meant to be worn rather than left on a shelf for display, which is refreshing. I am intrigued by a Encens Suave’s pairing of incense and coffee notes the most.
    Thanks for the draw,
    Roger, UK

  • C K says:

    I enjoyed learning a hit about Aurelien Guichard and his family. The long history of being involved in the perfume industry is fascinating and the fact that they even grew raw materials totally makes sense with how he chose to structure his collection. All 3 fragrances spotlighted sound wonderful particularly Encens Suave and Bois d’Ébène but if I had to choose 1 that most interests me it would be Encens Suave. I’ve not heard of Matiere Premiere before now but the house interests me the Parisian Musk and Santal Austral along with the ones highlighted here are particularly interesting to me. Would love to try them. Thanks for the generous draw. From CT USA. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone celebrating it. And best wishes to those who are not as well.

  • Amaziz89 says:

    Bois d’Ébène (2019): Guaiac wood is an ingredient that mesmerizes me: its complex olfactory profile combines intense smokiness and balsamic sweetness, along with fascinating undertones that range from citrusy to rosy, and from honeyed to lactonic. In Matiere Premiere Bois d’Ébène this precious aromatic wood shines – in all its dark charm – right from the start, as the fragrance’s indisputable protagonist. Mr. Guichard wisely chose to showcase his star raw material in a “dark, ambery wood” composition, highlighting its multifaceted olfactive properties with the use of some other exceptional naturals. Indian cypriol contributes mystical, rooty and oudy smokiness, while Indonesian patchouli provides a deep layer of grounding earthiness (with hints of tobacco and chocolate). The ambery/woody facets of the guaiac are enriched with a proper amber accord (discreet enough to compliment the vanillic woods without antagonizing them), as well as Brazilian cabreuva oil, whose characteristic woodiness of sweet, nutty and floral nuances is that extra touch that makes an already sensuous, highly enjoyable composition truly intriguing.

    Officially listed notes: Guaiac Wood, Juniper, Cabreuva, Cypriol, Patchouli. I am intrigued by the notes of Patchouli and Cypriol the most. I am not familiar with this perfumer but I am intrigued by his profile. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Radical Rose (2020): In 2016, Mr. Guichard started growing his own organic May roses in Grasse, resulting in the production of his very first batch of rose centifolia absolute last year. As you may know, this precious raw material is a dense, viscous liquid of intense, concentrated rosiness; reconstructing an actual blooming rose requires a skilled perfumer breathing some air back into the absolute. In Matiere Premiere Radical Rose, the flower’s freshness and intrinsic fruity/lemony undertones are aptly reinstated (my guess, with geranium, citronellol, a hint of fruits and airy musks or cashmeran). The perfumer further succeeds in his creative goal to highlight the “bright, spicy facets” of the rose, as well as enrich it with “dark, woody nuances”. Hay-like saffron beams illuminate the flower and Jamaican pimento berries add their clove/cinnamon/nutmeg-like spiciness, with the suede-leathery Andalusian labdanum acting as the composition’s catalyst: its synergy with the Indonesian heart of patchouli makes for an elegant woody base, while its alchemy with the emerging vanilla creates a long ambery drydown. This is rose de mai dressed in its most glowing amber costume, transformed from dewy ingénue to voluptuous charmer…

    Officially listed notes: Rose Centifolia, Pimento Berries, Saffron, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vanilla. I love Patchouli and Rose being my favourite notes in perfumery. A house and perfumer I am not familiar with I am afraid. But I am intrigued and curious to find out more about this house. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • Jos says:

    Loved the idea of those fine ingredients that are used and the history. I have never tried anything from this house, but this sounds lovely!! I especially am attracted to Encens Suave and Bois d’Ébène 🙂 Both sound like right up my alley. Living in the EU

  • RobertQ says:

    I loved the sheer amount of information in despinas work , it’s not a house I’m familiar with so to have so much information on them and the scents itself was so helpful to learn more about them.

    Encens Suave sounds like everything I love bottled up , so that one has my curiosity piqued.

    I’m from Ireland.

  • simo975g says:

    Aurelien has been incredibly productive and quite consistent in his perfume career. I love to wear my Bond no 9 Chinatown. I think he’ll produce more modern classics in the future. I like the idea of him focusing on premium materials. Based on the description, I think the rose and the incense will be immediate loves. Thank you for the genereous giveaway. I live in EU.

  • juhah says:

    Thank you, I enjoyed reading about these fragrances. I am torn between Encens Suave and Bois d’Ebene because I like leathery and incense scents with hints of coffee but also earthy scents with tobacco and patchouli. Both sound like something that would fit nicely in my collection! I live in EU, Finland.

  • Sarah Colton says:

    OMG. Where to start? I’ve loved @aurelienguichard ever since this Bad Boy heart-throb perfumer was setting the niche perfume world on fire with out of bounds fragrances such as, Robert Piguet’s ‘Baghari’ (2006), Comme des Garçons’s ´Play’ (2007), and John Galliano’s ‘John Galliano’ (2008). What a spirited talent ! I love Despina’s article because it artfully brings us into the values and energy of Aurelien’s brand @matierepremiereparfums, catches us up on its most important activities, and helps us by making a pre-selection of her choices of fragrances best for the season. Feeling totally well cared for here in every way. I’m especially drawn to ‘Radical Rose’ because of the connection with Aurelien’s own organically grown May roses, and because, well, a RADICAL Rose has got to be something else! Already fantasizing about the entire thing. Bravo, @despinavnt and @cafleurebon, for a fabulous experience all round ! xxx Sarah and the Bad Girls at Bad Girls Perfume, Paris, France. ❤️

  • Princess Anna says:

    I only know Matiere Premiere by reading about them. Not available in perfumery shops in Romania. I love the way Mr. Guichard combines notes that, at first, seem antagonistic: gourmand incense, woody honey or spicy roses. I’m sure all of them are delightful for our nostrils.

  • EricTheAviator says:

    I enjoyed reading the history of Aurelein’s path to perfume, and what led to this line of fragrances. Having lineage in perfume development, this leaves me with a high desire to give these a try! Encens Suave sounds very interesting to me, I’ve only recently come to like incense forward fragrances, despite always loving darker fragrance notes!

  • Lorenzo says:

    Wow! The brand is under my radar since a while, and I’m so curious to try the fragrances. I appreciate Guichard’s work with many brands, and I totally agree with his approach in Matiere Premiere!
    I’m from Italy.
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Cyndi says:

    These sound fascinating! Especially the Radical Rose! I have not tried any Matiere Premiere scents yet but would love to – I live in Washington DC – thanks!

  • Daniel Fisher says:

    I love, love, love this idea! Showcasing the fabulous materials which make the perfumes special. I love how Despina sort of breaks down the materiel herself and reconstructs it in a way which is easily digestible for someone who may or may not be familiar with the naturals listed. I’m going to check out the brand now, and how cool it is that the Perfumer is the Son of Jean Guichard! I’m most interested in Encens Suave and its carnal addictive qualities.

  • Amore says:

    Only read about the fragrances, never smellt it by my own and would love to change this ♡
    I like Bois d’Ébène the most but all of them sound amazing, i felt your joy 🙂
    I am from EU, Lovely greetings

  • Salem says:

    I enjoyed Despina’s selection of the 3 out of 6 and their detailed and objective descriptions.
    Myself, I would pick Santal Austral, Encens Suave and Bois d’Ébène, should I win. Two of them already convinced me from Despina’s description and I think Santal Austral might also be a perfume fit for colder weather and also delicious in layering.
    I have not smelled any Matiere Premiere fragrances, but I know and love many an Aurelien Guichard perfume. My favorites by him are the legendary John Galliano EDP, his creations for Narciso Rodriguez and some of his Robert Piguet offerings (Visa and Petit Fracas to be specific).
    I am in the EU, thanks for the draw!

  • Timea says:

    I’m not familiar with this brand, but the review is very good. And for me all of these 3 perfume sounds nice on their own way. Thanks for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    These sound really delightful. The Radical Rose will be something I have to get my nose on. I am a big fan of the Rose de Mai from another fragrance where I first discovered this variety of rose. What a labor of love for him to grow his own crop of the organic roses. Often I test perfumes without seeing the notes and often those I really love end up having the Guaiac wood in them, so I was thrilled to see that note as well. Truly Despina has made them all call to me. Nice work. Thank you Matiere Premiere for the kind gift. I am going straight away to your website. USA.

  • kramerongo says:

    I like that the perfumer choose the best quality ingredients in his frag. I never heard about the perfumer or his brand before but thanks to CaFleureBon I have now. I live in Sweden EU

  • marcopietro says:

    Thank you for the illuminating and comprehensive review that perfectly captures the complexity of the three fragrances and Mr. Guichard’s intentions.
    The common factor seems a vibrant evolution between sensuality and mysticism, very intriguing and magnetic.
    As a fan of woody notes, I cannot be indifferent to Bois d’Ébène.
    I am in Italy, EU.

  • Naomi Sawyer says:

    They all sound absolutely beautiful, and I appreciate the highlighting of individual notes. Radical Rose, however, would be my own personal first choice. I love Despina’s description: “rose de mai dressed in its most glowing amber costume, transformed from dewy ingénue to voluptuous charmer…”. Thanks for the chance to enter this generous draw!
    Boston area

  • Honeydew Crenshaw says:

    US reader

    The scents are all intriguing, but Bois d’Ébène is the one that is really speaking to me. Not familiar with the house or perfumer. I like the visual storytelling that Despina uses to describe the scents.

  • Bryant Worley says:

    I really appreciated Despina’s thorough, and appealing breakdown of each fragrance, especially that of Radical Rose.

    I am not familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances and/or Aurélien Guichard’s work, and if wasn’t clear from the first paragraph, Radical Rose appeals to me most.

    I live in Waldorf, MD, USA.

  • aurora_ru says:

    I am glad to hear about “the radiant quality of natural ingredients, as handled by a talented, self-confident perfumer who knows when to add some unexpected touches to resplendent aromatic harmonies”, sounds beautiful. From the three, I was the most attracted to Encens Suave, as resins and gourmands are my favorite scent profile.
    I am from the EU, thank you for generous draw!

  • alexmradulescu says:

    I so love this review! For disclosure, I am a huge fan of Aurélien Guichard. What I love most about his style is the ease with which he updates ideas (the chypre in Narciso Rodriguez’s pillar Narciso, or the cult-favorite Chinatown; the powdery oriental in Piguet’s Visa, etc.) accords to be eminently wearable today (although I do not think in these superficial terms), finding the middle ground between the weight, monumentality of olden times; perfumery and the easy-goingness in today’s ditzy fruitchoulis, gourmands and fruity-florals – and he does this brilliantly, never falling into the trap of tiring retros, or modern vulgarity. I really am in awe with his talent and really love all his fragrances. I have not had yet had the chance to smell any of the ‘Matière première’ fragrances. Despina’s descriptions make me be more hooked and she assures me these raw materials get the treatment I expected from this modernist genious of a perfumer: incense always channels for me something liturgical and I am really looking forward to smelling it in a ‘addictive and carnal’ set-up; the guaiac’s smell is poetry itself; and I always had less of a hot spot for roses, because of their citrusy, pointy, sometimes harsh edges. An ambery treatment of rose absolute sounds lovely and is something that brings to mind the liquor-like sweetness of Fléchier’s Une Rose for Malle – the only rose I really love. I think, taking these into account and Despina’s perfectly descriptive review, Radical Rose appeals to me the most – what a nice name, also! I live in Romania, in the EU.

  • Sngash says:

    Thank you Despina for a wonderful intro to these three beauties. I’m torn deciding which of the three I like the most since they each sound lovely but I’m leaning towards the Radical Rose as it seems to incorporate most of my favorite notes. I’m in USA

  • hoschhti says:

    Didn’t bother to read the article, I just want to win, just once, please! 😉

    I’m from Germany.

  • Claudia M. says:

    Just one word after reading… Wow!!! Despina’s description of these scents is so clear and precise that I can almost smell them!! I am in love with Roses, I wear many fragrances but I have a penchant for the scent of this amazing flower, so of course I’d love to have Radical Rose. But all 3 fragrances look simply amazing and so sophisticated! And if course it would be a honor to wear something from Aurélien Guichard!!
    I live in Milan, Italy

  • smm13 says:

    I particularly enjoyed the description of Radical Rose because of how he grew his own May roses to create the rose centifolia absolute. I’m always interested in different interpretations of rose so that one appeals to me the most. I haven’t tried Matiere Premiere fragrances yet. I live in the USA.

  • ll grhm says:

    I have not had the opportunity to try Matiere Premiere fragrances or any of Aurélien Guichard’s work. Of the three, I think Bois d’Ébène would appeal to me the most as I love Guaiac wood. Thanks for the draw, I am in the US.

  • jundaasian says:

    From Despina’s article, I really enjoyed reading about the starting of Aurélien Guichard’s company, how he went from designing fragrances for other houses to starting his own house like Francis Kurkdjian. Unfortunately, this is my first time hearing about Matiere Premiere fragrances and Aurélien Guichard and I have never had the privilege of trying of Mr. Guichard’s compositions before. From the three, the one that appeals to me the most is Encens Suave just because with scents of benzoin and labdanum, those notes are just so addictive! I live in Florida, US.

  • seanchen says:

    Hey guys, I really enjoyed Despina’s description of guaiac wood and the wide range of smells that it can provide, from the intense smokiness to the balsamic sweetness. I am very curious to try for myself this impressive range of notes from this one ingredient. I am not familier with Matiere Premiere fragrances or Aurelien Guichards work but I would definitely love to try his fragrances now that I have read so much about him. Bois d’Ébène definitely appeals to me most because of the use of the guaiac wood. I live in US, thanks!

  • Juan_hernan says:

    Something that really stood out to me from the review was about how the cypriol contributes mystical, rooty and oudy smokiness. I thought that would be something from the fragrance that I would really be interested in. This is the first time that I have heard about this perfume house and its creator but these three creations all sound magical. From the three, that one that appeals to me the most is Bois d’Ébène. Hoping to win! I live in Florida, US.

  • zhiang0113 says:

    I remember finding out about Matiere Premiere last year and being intrigued by the compositions – after all, I’m always down to try star perfumers releasing fragrances highlighting key natural ingredients!

    Thank you Despina for shedding some light on these 3 fragrances, especially since there hasn’t been much chatter on the net about the brand. They sound lovely! I’m especially intrigued by the new release, Radical Rose – many rose fragrances on the market present rose in a saccharine, fruity manner. However, what really draws me in is the push and pull of the green and spicy notes that’s found in natural rose absolutes, and from your description, Monsieur Guichard has presented it in an organic fashion – and I would absolutely love to try it! (No pun intended!)

    Besides Radical Rose, I would think my top 3 picks would include Bois d’Ébène and Neroli Oranger as well – I love orange blossom absolute!

    I live in the UK, and would love to have the chance to try the custom set 🙂 Thank you for hosting the giveaway!

  • patrick_348 says:

    I am most intrigued by Bois d’Ébène, because it sounds exotic, with notes that I am not fully familiar with.like guiac wood and cabreuva. It sounds like this would be a way to experience those notes at their best. I liked how Despina described Mr. Guichard’s approach to perfumery and his desire to highlight the quality of his materials. I also find myself wondering what it would be like to grow up in that world and culture of Grasse. I have not sampled any work by Mr. Guichard, or anything by Matiere Premiere, but am eager to. I live in the US, in North Carolina.

  • Infusion d'Zanz says:

    Radical Rose is absolutely gorgeous. Its almost beyond smelling like a rose. This is a flower thats been ‘retouched’ using filters in instagram to maximize saturation, contrast, brightness… etc. All dialed up to 100. So this hyperreal approach may not be for everyone, it is not exactly natural smelling— but its extremely delicious and wonderful smelling in an overdosed Killian kind of way. I love it. I have two bottles and enjoy every moment of the wear.

  • Michael Prince says:

    Despina, great review of Encens Suave, Bois d’Ébène, Radical Rose.
    I am familiar with Aurélien Guichard’s work of Bond No. 9 and Thierry Mugler. Of the three fragrances reviewed Encens Suave appeals to me the most. A sophisticated smoky, vanilla, resinious, and coffee gourmand goodness. I am from the USA.

  • doveskylark says:

    I admire Aurélien Guichard’s dedication to using noble raw materials. All the creations sound radiant, but I am particularly interested in Encens Suave. I am very curious that coffee is a note along with labdanum and incense. I like that the intent was to create something addictive and carnal.
    I live in the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thank you for the great review Despina.

    I really enjoyed reading through the reviews of Encens Suave and Bois d’Ébène.

    I think I lean a little more towards Encens Suave because incense, coffee and labadanum are some of my favorite scent notes.

    I love how Despina has highlighted the familt history of perfumery in this article and the singular focus of each perfume around a specific material.

    I unfortunately have not smelt anything from this house or perfumer before.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • roxana.t says:

    Nice article with a beautiful intro. I think each of the 3 perfumes are great,but my main interest is regarding Encens suave.From the 3 of them , this is the one I find more appealing.Althoung I am not familiar with Matiere Premiere, I am familiar with some other creations of Aurelian.Actually one of my fave perfumes which I always have in my collection is Dsquared2Want Pink ginger. I live in Italy

  • mleenstra says:

    I’m often not aware of the men/women “behind the curtains” of perfume houses and therefore I enjoy Despina’s review lifting the curtain on who is making all these lovely perfumes! I’m not sure if I’ve had the pleasure of trying Aurelien Guichard’d perfumes yet, but I like how Matiere premier (as its name suggests) puts one material at the centre. Like Despina I’m particularly intrigued by Guiac wood and Bois d’ ébène interests me. Marit, Uk

  • wandering_nose says:

    Putting the emphasis on showcasing natural ingredients is so admirable in the days of synthetic substitutes to pretty much every fragrance note out there… Despina’s review is so detailed and descriptive that it makes it almost impossible for me to choose my favorite out of the three but I guess I would most lean towards the Encens Suave with the amazing combo of incense, benzoin and coffee. I have not yet tried Matiere Premiere fragrances but adore Aurelien’s creations for Mugler, Narciso Rodriguez and Nina Ricci, and I love Diane for DVF and D & G Anthology La Roue de la Fortune 10. Based in Ireland. Thank you for the great draw!

  • Roberta says:

    I do like perfumes with entirely invented notes and surprising experimental combinations. But..I think even better, is a perfume with a short list of raw ingredients that I can smell and pronounce. All of three of these scents sound amazing. US.

  • theEfat7 says:

    I love that Despina’s description of each fragrance not only showcases her own knowledge and experience, but makes clear Monsieur Guichard’s stunning abilities. I think his work, in general, is hit-or-miss, but I am a huge fan of Casbah, from his time at Robert Piguet. I would love to test his new fragrances, and am especially interested in Bois d’Ebene – I think it would make a beautiful addition to my winter lineup, as New York gets pretty cold!

  • phoenixad says:

    not familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances although these looks promising most likely radical rose would be my favorite.Im in EU