MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron Review (Aurélien Guichard) 2022 + Best in Class Giveaway

matiere premiere crystal saffron

 Aurélien Guichard writing the formula for MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron© MATIERE PREMIERE

Before Steven reviews MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron, I invite you to revisit my exclusive interview with Perfumer Extraordinaire Aurélien Guichard, Founder and Creative Perfumer at MATIERE PREMIERE (he won a Fragrance Foundation Award 2021 for Perfume Extraordinaire Radical Rose).

Aurelien Guichard MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron

Aurelien Guichard and saffron for Crystal Saffron 2022 ©Alexis Jacquin 

 Not only did he announce Crystal Saffron in that interview, but also that the brand was (finally) available in the U.SA.  Aurélien Guichard graciously answered my questions, here specifically regarding his creative process for Crystal Saffron, which both Steven and I agree is one of the best saffron-centric perfumes we have ever smelt. –Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

“It’s the first time I’ve used natural saffron in one of my creations. I was impressed by the olfactive character and extreme quality of the oil Robertet recently created with Greek saffron from the Kozani region. Its crystalline aspect was the starting point for my formulation. I wanted to work on its fresh and crisp texture, rather than the warm and spicy side, to create something cool, urban. I’ve combined it with one of my favorite musks – Habanolide. I love to use it, it’s edgy and sharp. It enabled me to develop this fascinating character of saffron that is truly contemporary, both masculine and feminine. Ambroxan was also a key ingredient, to highlight the addictive comfort – which is a common trait to all MATIERE PREMIERE fragrances. And I’ve use Incense Oil coming from Somalia. It’s very beautiful, I already use it as the main ingredient for Encens Suave. It brings texture, verticality and deepness to Crystal Saffron.”- Aurélien Guichard, Founder and Creative Perfumer at MATIERE PREMIERE

 

 

 Video Editor Steven Gavrielatos aka Redolessence reviews Crystal Saffron

Disclosure: Steven and Michelyn received bottles, opinions are their own.

Matiere Premiere Crystal saffron review

image by Steven

Thanks to our friends at MATIERE PREMIERE we have a 100 ml of Crystal Saffron for one registered ÇaFleureBon reader and Redolessence subscriber in the USA, EU or UK. YOU MUST REGISTER and leave a comment on this site with what you  of BOTH MICHELYN’S introduction (Aurélien Guichard creative process) AND STEVEN’S VIDEO REVIEW, what appeals to you about Crystal Saffron. If you want your comment to count twice, please also include a comment from Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurélien Guichard. Draw closes 11/13/2022 and is announced ten days later.

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65 comments

  • Sorohan Adriana says:

    Crystal Saffron is built around one of the highest quality saffron oils – Greek saffron oil from the Kozani region. Obtained from the dried stigmas of crocus flowers, it is considered to be the most qualitative saffron in the world, according to the brand. O am from EU

  • lhommethatsmellsgood says:

    I love when perfumers take a note and truly break it down piece by piece to compile an amazing fragrance. I love his attention to detail here and his learning all about each property that saffron has to offer.

    Steven, as always I love your delivery and how you review a fragrance. I would sure love to give this fragrance a good home and have my first true saffron scent.

    Thank you!

    Andrew A.

  • Steven’s review of Crystal Saffron was wonderful and to the point and really really makes me want to try this. Michelyns introduction leaves me with the impression that this is a cool and urban stunner with respect to Saffron versus its traditional use of warm and spicy. I have yet to smell a fragrance that uses saffron to create a fresh and crisp texture. So this is extremely enticing!

    In regards to Michelyn’s review of exclusive interview with Aurelien, I found it interesting that he centers on using a very high dosage of one main ingredient in all his perfumes and then uses other ingredients to facet the main one! I would love to try his fragrances. Thank you for the opportunity. From Ct, USA.

  • What appealed to me was the various uses of the saffron ingredient and how it can be utilized in such accords like leather. Like the perfumer said… I wanted to work on its fresh and crisp texture, rather than the warm and spicy side, to create something cool, urban. From USA

  • lisasanderson says:

    I enjoyed reading both the review above and the interview. Steven’s take is also important.

    Aurelien said:
    “Raw materials are so complex and variable depending on the origins, the terrains, the climate, the farming, the way they are extracted…. Raw materials are for me, as a perfumer, the colors that I use to create emotions. I search and source the right ones to express my creative idea. Fragrances by MATIERE PREMIERE are just like their central raw material: they have no gender, they combine great power and diffusion with a sense of comfort, they allow you to comprehend what you are wearing, and smelling them will bring unique emotions.”

    The Greek saffron he is using is an amazing raw material. Adding the Somalian incense oil similar to that used in encens suave is amazing. Saffron is an amazing note and I would love to try it.

    USA

  • I was fortunate to try this new creation from MATIERE PREMIERE two weeks ago, and LOVED it!

    Loved also to read that for Aurélien “creating perfumes, growing flowers or perfume production appeared to me as part of our way of life, more than strictly a profession.” Who wouldn’t want that?

    Greetings from Portugal/EU

  • Crystal Saffron sounds amazing. Another great review from Michelyn and Steven. I like that the perfumer “wanted to work on its fresh and crisp texture, rather than the warm and spicy side, to create something cool, urban.”. It also sounds very modern. I would love to try this fragrance. Houston, Tx

  • All my life I’ve pretty much stuck to sweeter colognes. This new fragrance sounds like a great mature scent for the fall/winter scene. It sounds like an original and unique fragrance.

  • ramsesperez52 says:

    In the video it mentioned how spicy it is, I’m drawn to that. I am a huge fan of SpiceBomb myself and spicy fragrances in general so this is right jo my alley.

  • Mashal Hasan says:

    I know for a fact that saffron is a very luxurious expensive note to add in a fragrance and maybe considered warm, smokey and spicy, but what fascinates me about this scent and the perfumer is the difference approach taken to make it more crisp and fresh. Really interested to try it out and thank you for the opportunity!
    Mashal from Finland.

  • John Michael Jones says:

    Wow, where does one even begin here? So many things appeal to me about this one. Not only the fact natural saffron was used (which had to be extremely expensive) but also the fact both Michelyn & Steven (masters of perfumery) both agree this is the best saffron-centric perfume they’ve ever smelled? Oh man! Take my money please!
    A quote that caught my attention was where Aurelien said, “I did not want to create a brand per se but a house led by a Perfumer, whose mission is to push the limits.” LOVE THIS!

  • Sounds pretty nice with those notes of incense, musk and saffron. I already have an idea inside my mind on how this one should smell, but it would be fun to actually try it and see if my brain serves me right or not.
    Thank you!

  • The unique, fascinating and absolutely beautiful notes of this fragrance appeal to me. I loved reading the interview with Aurélien Guichard for me it was really teaching and I learned a lot of things from it. I live in Trzebnica, Poland, EU.

  • Both Michelyn and Steven find MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron the best saffron fragrance they have smelled. I was a little surprised by Steven’s disclosure that Ombre Leather has saffron note, too because just like Steven, I did not really noticed it but now I will pay closer attention. Saffron is expensive so it is a big deal that Crystal Saffron uses real saffron. I am in US.

  • When it comes to saffron I really have only been exposed to Br540, so it is refreshing to have a different take on this expensive and luxe ingredient. In maryland.

  • Ohhh man! I’ve enjoyed every single one of Matiere Premiere’s creations so I’m sure this beauty will be no different. Considering Michelyn’s praise of it being one of the best saffron’s EVER, I’m all about it. I must admit that I have a near unhealthy obsession with Encens Suave, like whoa.. it’s the best incense fragrance I have ever had the pleasure of smelling so I’ll sniff my arms/clothes for hours. So when Stephen made a connection with it to Crystal Saffron (even faint as it may be), I have no choice but to try it. And I will love it! Thanks for the opportunity!! AR USA

  • Love how Michelyn and Steven both agree this is a great Saffron Fragrance. I have the discovery set, such a wonderful Fragrance house. I would love to own this new Fragrance. Thank you for this Chance USA

  • richard.delnunzio2 says:

    Thank you Michelyn for this opportunity to get inside a perfumers head. I find very interesting the difference Guichard finds between natural versus synthetic saffron. The idea that it has both masculine and feminine properties sparks further interest into finding if other notes are characteristically gender neutral.

    Steven’s video, as always, is extremely informative. I appreciate his description on the leathery aspect of the fragrance, but that it is a clean aromatic almost “pillowy” leather. This helps with picturing what kind of leather this scent gives off. Thanks for all of this.
    -Richard, NY, USA

  • Crystal Saffron sounds amazing.
    As Steven said, fresh, sophisticated, not sweet, with a great longevity, it’s a plus in my book.

    Aurélien definitely has the a talent in his blood, and dedicated (remembering 2000 ingredients?), that’s amazing. He also sound focused, very open, and giving so much details in the interview.

    I would love to have the opportunity to own “raw materials” or Matiere Premiere, Crystal Saffron.

    Best

  • I love saffron in fragrances and to hear both Steven and Mychelin say this is their favorite one …I’m definitely intrigued a lot! Listening to Steven’s video I was also happy to hear that the incense they used are very piny and lemony, just the way I like them (big frankincense fan here). It was also interesting reading the intro here, and learning that they used real natural saffron here. I would love to see if the saffron in here smells different compared to other fragrances I had a chance to test or own. I’m from Illinois, US.

  • Saffron is one of my favourite notes. Sadly, I don’t have nearly enough of them in my collection. Aurelien is one of the best perfumers out there according to me, and this seems to be another masterpiece. Steven’s review was awesome.

    Something I found interesting from Michelyn’s review with Aurelien was: “I am from a family of perfumers, and during my childhood, creating perfumes, growing flowers or perfume production appeared to me as part of our way of life, more than strictly a profession”. What a beautiful quote, and what a healthy way of tackling your work.

    Writing from Sweden, EU.

  • I love the modern approach Matiere Premiere has throughout their fragrance line. Aurelien Guichard is a fantastic nose through and through. The modernity of Crystal Saffron sounds very appealing, would love to try it.
    Thanks for the draw.
    EU based

  • Herbal leather with musk and spices. I am in awe 🙂 I had no idea that saffron is so connected to leather scent.
    Aurélien Guichard interview is so inspiring, interesting that “Matière première” means “raw material” in French. It is the basic, starting point of our creative process.”
    Hugs from Romania

  • I loved how he used natural saffron, really an interesting read! Steven really talks with such passion and knowledge, I love it! Im in the EU

  • Michelyn, I was definitely interested when you said it was one of the best saffron scents you’ve encountered. From your in depth interview, this stood out to me: that he grows his own flowers! What an amazing way to really connect with a material and appreciate it. Steven, as always your review was so eloquent. I was especially interested to hear you find some resemblances to Mendittorosa’s Alpha. That made me very interested to try this fragrance.

    Writing from the EU.

  • I appreciated Steven clarifying the herbal, spicy aspect and that it had no sweetness at all even with the leathery note. Very intriguing! In the article I appreciated Mr. Guichard’s words on the origin of the ingredients used. The cultivating and using it in a holistic manner – truly a “study” of the plant or ingredient in his perfumes. It gave us a window into his process.
    California

  • Not only did he announce Crystal Saffron in that interview, but also that the brand was (finally) available in the U.SA. Aurélien Guichard graciously answered my questions, here specifically regarding his creative process for Crystal Saffron, which both Steven and I agree is one of the best saffron-centric perfumes we have ever smelt. – Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief. High praise indeed from both Steven and Michelyn this sounds like a magical concoction. The fact that Steven mentioned the spicy herbal facet has piqued my interest. Thanks a million from the United Kingdom

  • Not only did he announce Crystal Saffron in that interview, but also that the brand was (finally) available in the U.SA. Aurélien Guichard graciously answered my questions, here specifically regarding his creative process for Crystal Saffron, which both Steven and I agree is one of the best saffron-centric perfumes we have ever smelt. – Michelyn Camen. It’s the first time I’ve used natural saffron in one of my creations. I was impressed by the olfactive character and extreme quality of the oil Robertet recently created with Greek saffron from the Kozani region. Its crystalline aspect was the starting point for my formulation. I wanted to work on its fresh and crisp texture, rather than the warm and spicy side, to create something cool, urban. I’ve combined it with one of my favorite musks – Habanolide. I love to use it, it’s edgy and sharp. It enabled me to develop this fascinating character of saffron that is truly contemporary, both masculine and feminine. Ambroxan was also a key ingredient, to highlight the addictive comfort – which is a common trait to all MATIERE PREMIERE fragrances. And I’ve use Incense oil coming from Somalia. It’s very beautiful, I already use it as the main ingredient for Encens Suave. It brings texture, verticality and deepness to Crystal Saffron.”- Aurélien Guichard. A beautiful description by Steven and Michelyn just highlights the praise both lavished on this creation. Also intrigued by perfumer use of incense oil from Somalia to add depth to the spicy facets Steven mentioned. Thanks a lot from the UK

  • That last photo of Crystal Saffron by Steven is really eye catchy! I have never tried anything from this house, but would love to start my journey with Crystal Saffron. I am in Europe. Thank you

  • From the exclusive interview I found out that Aurélien Guichard began studying perfumery at Givaudan Perfumery school at the age of 21. With Crystal Saffron it’s the first time the saffron note was used in one of his creations. From the video I learned the fragrance smells leathery. What appeals to me is the high recommendation of both reviewers here. US

  • Using natural saffron in Crystal Saffron caught my attention. I enjoy seeing those crimson threads in my saffron crocus during the fall in my garden. I was impressed with the rose Centifolia trees and tuberose fields in Provence that were mentioned during Michelyn’s interview. I do enjoy spicy fragrances. Steven describes it as a natural organic saffron fragrance that’s aromatic. The Somalian incense sounds lovely. Thanks for another awesome article and draw. Mich USA

  • Loving the idea that my favorite note saffron is the expiration of this fragrance. Definitely would love to try how this fragrance and my body chemistry gonna work!

  • First of all, I loved that interview! Mr. Guichard is one of my favorite perfumers, and it was a pleasure to read his thoughts. Not only do I love his works, but he also looks like a very nice person, too.
    I have tried Crystal Saffron once, and I have to agree with both Michelyn and Steven – it is one of the best fragrances of saffron I have ever tried.
    Beautiful creation indeed.

  • I love saffron in perfume. Michelyn says it’s the best, Steven said it’s a spicy leather and I’d love to try it! New Jersey, USA

  • I have not yet smelled anything from this brand, but I have heard rave reviews for Encens Suave and Santal Austral. Saffron is such a beautiful note and I have not smelled the natural variant yet during my hobby. Aurelien Guichard is a definate master in my books. Michelyn’s introduction was very interesting, and Steven’s review was informative of the smell itself. Props to you both.

    Something I took from Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien is this quote which I think encapsulates how he goes about his work with Matiere premiere: “We decided our goal would be to turn a raw material into a perfume, with a unique construction: use a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient, then use only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to facet the main one”.

    Writing from Sweden/EU.

  • LATONYA GIPSON-BOWMAN says:

    Great video Steven and if you and Michelyn say it’s a great Saffron….then I’m in I would love to try this.

  • I think it’s really interesting that Guichard is totally inspired by raw/natural elements, but also fully embraces modern synthetic materials in his creations.

    One quote from Michelyn’s interview I found interesting is: “We decided our goal would be to turn a raw material into a perfume, with a unique construction: use a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient, then use only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to facet the main one.” I like this minimalist approach. Take a core ingredient and add just enough to turn it into a well-rounded perfume. Anything extraneous is unnecessary.

    Thanks for the opportunity!

  • I think this sounds interesting because we are so used to saffron being used as a warmer, suede-like note and Aurelien mentions in the creative process portion that he hoped to harness its fresh and crisp aspects. That is not something I have experienced myself and am eager to see how it turns out. As he mentioned in his interview with Michelyn, Aurelien’s goal through Matiere Premiere is to “push the limits in terms of olfactive quality” and emphasize it at each step along the way. So, I am sure, that his work with natural saffron will be in honor of the ingredient and will unharness it’s potential in new and interesting ways. Steven mentioning that the saffron was being used in conjunction with habanolide also excites me, as it is one of my favorite musks. I am eager to see how it helps bring out the aromatic and organic facets of saffron Steven talked about. This sounds like a real banger for this time of year.

  • From Michelyn’s introduction and creative process behind Crystal Saffron, I was impressed by how deeply the perfumer knows the ingredients, so as to bring out various aspects of the perfume to meet a particular vision, almost like a painter playing with colors and brushes to create a painting she or he has in mind.

    Steven as usual did a great job describing Crystal Saffron. I like spicy, dark, green incense perfumes and Steven says it’s all of these along with a very classy touch. I liked how he talked about saffron being used in leather perfumes. I am impressed by the longevity and the fact that it’s not sweet and gourmand, per Steven’s review.

    Here’s a quote from Michelyn’s exclusive interview, for extra credit 🙂
    “I was lucky to grow up with them not only because they were successful and talented artists, but because they were open-minded and humble people, believing in diversity of talents and of visions of life. The reason why I was drawn towards creating perfume was probably because I wanted to collaborate with creative people from different origins and countries.”
    From USA. I am also a Redolessence subscriber.

  • This sounds lovely. I’m not terribly familiar with saffron-centric fragrances. I’ve tried L’Artisan Safran Troublant and Byredo Black Saffron, both of which had that distinct earthiness and spicy leather scent.

    From Michelyn’s interview the oil was “created with Greek saffron from the Kozani region”. I like Aurelien Guichard’s approach focusing on a cool, crisp crytalline saffron note. The use of the Somalian incense oil seems to deepen the composition. MD, USA.

  • I love Matiere Premiere fragrances since I tried Bois dEbene. I think they have top notch ingredients.
    I love that this one uses musks and dark ingredients like insence, and leather accords. I am a huge fan of heavy fragrances and I think this one must be so cool in my collection.
    I loved also the introduction because knowing that the perfumer uses natural saffron is just so cool.
    USA here.

  • From Matiere Premiere i only have experience with Oud Seven , non linear fragrance , the whole metamorphosis animalic oud , to comforting resins , vetiver and tobacco is both aggressive, and appealing at the same time. I own a bottle. The best quote from the interview with Aurélien Guichard:

    “I created a first version of Radical Rose and presented it to the press just before the first COVID lockdown. Only a week later, we were all confined, and I was lucky to stay during 6 months in my atelier in Grasse. I felt the fragrance was not good enough. I called my partners and told them I had to start all over again! I worked night and day during 6 months, including during the month of May, the month of the Rose Centifolia harvest, weighing and compounding every try myself. I came up with the final version at the end of the lockdown, it was on a Friday. On the following Monday, I called the press I saw 6 months earlier, to explain. They were kind and understanding – everyone was so happy to be free again!”

    Aurélien Guichard approach to life is in a way similar to mine, he’s attracted by the diner things in life , food, styling, everything in Michelyn interview points out to one refined and elegant character.
    I’m perfectionist like him , that’s why I was so impressed how he thought Radical Rose was just OK, but he was looking for something else , close to perfection fragrance, and self-satisfaction , one of the most important factors for every artist.
    I’m a tailor, but just like Aurélien Guichard I believe I’m an artist too.

    Crystal Saffron i like because of the different approach to saffron, more fresher, and not so ambery. The incense and the musk i also like.
    It’s not something important, but Oud Seven was a gift I received from a pleased customer of mine , who wanted a bespoke suit on really short notice .
    Thank you Michelyn, Steven , Matiere Premiere and Aurélien Guichard
    USA

  • The use of natural saffron as focal point is what intrigued me most about this fragrance.

    I love the simplistic presentation of this brand. I recently sampled this one & it is definitlely my favorite use of saffron I’ve smelled, definitely signature scent worthy! I am excited to have this one in my collection.

    I love the minimalistic use of one raw material as a forward note, saffron has always intrigued me as a note in perfumery. This may be my favorite use of saffron that I have experienced.

    It was a pleasure to learn about Aurelien’s decorated history prior to founding his brand, it is truly reflected in his work & his dedication to the art. I recently sampled this entire house & it is a pleasure to know that Radical Rose and French Flower are made from his own personal gardens.

  • I love the bright and enveloping character of Crystal Saffron – the name fits perfectly!
    This perfume is considered one of the most qualitative perfumes with saffron in it that exist on the market so it‘s quite a jewel!
    I am from the EU.

  • wandering_nose says:

    I love spicy perfumes and I have been discovering my love for saffron. That is why I am really happy to have the opportunity to be introduced to Crystal Saffron and to have an insight into the creative process behind it. Thank you Michelyn! It is fantastic to know Aurélien Guichard was impressed by the new Givaudan saffron oil originating from Greek saffron. I love the way the perfumer describes his relationship with each of the main ingredients used in his new creation. Steven describes the components of Crystal Saffron in such a way I can almost smell them. I love to hear the saffron is “the name of the game” in this perfume, and that the fragrance is strong, leathery, dark, not sweet at all, very sophisticated and mysterious.
    Oh I remember absolutely adoring the life story of Aurélien Guichard which he fantastically shared in the interview with Michelyn. Revisiting it was pure pleasure. I am in awe of his artistic flair, sophistication, and his creative drive, all topped by the attitude of true craftsman’s perfectionism. There were a number of points that struck a chord for me, however the crucial one seems to be the one about his vision for the life of an artist and perfumer: “I did not want to create a brand per se, but a “Maison de Parfumeur” – a house led by a Perfumer, whose mission is to push the limits in terms of olfactive quality and know-how. A house which places fragrance quality at the very center of each single step and consideration. A house which embodies that French Perfumery is all about extreme olfactive modernity and quality, far from the old-fashioned craft as some may see it.”
    Thank you from the EU

  • Regis Monkton says:

    I think that it’s interesting that “Crystal Saffron” is the first fragrance of Guichard’s which uses natural saffron. I appreciated learning about Habanolide and Somalian incense. I can enjoy spicy fragrances and I can enjoy saffron in fragrances, so I’d like to try this fragrance. I live in the U.S.A.

    From Michelyn’s interview with Aurelian, I appreciate when he says: “We decided our goal would be to turn a raw material into a perfume, with a unique construction: use a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient, then use only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to facet the main one.”

  • I enjoyed Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurelien. It is
    interesting that perfumer centers on using a very high dosage of one main ingredient and in this case very expensive saffron oil!
    Love Steven’s detailed review!
    USA

  • Thanks for the review Michelyn and Steven!

    What I found intersteresting in Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurélien was his love for nature and particularly his fields of flowers. I was excited to hear the note Saffron in the name because it can only mean he has grown his fields in Grasse with Crocus flowers as well!

    Saffron is such an incredible ingredient and my partner often adds it to her dishes which enhances not only the taste, but also the scent and even the colour!

    Steven’s reviews are always helpful to me because he gives me a good understanding whether this is a fragrance I should try.
    Most of my Saffron fragrances ‘Winter Weather’ style fragrances so hearing Steven describe this as a Green, Herbal and Fresh fragrances really piqued my interest. It isn’t winter yet and in these transitional months I still prefer to wear my Fresher Spring and Fall fragrances.

    Crystal Saffron sounds amazing and I can’t wait to try it!

    Greetings from the UK!

  • I love how Crystal Saffron sounds so elegant and supple, yet at the same time, as Steven says, it has a darkness and an edginess to it. The lack of sweetness, yet its ability of being feminine and masculine at the same time, in Michelyn’s words, the clarity of the composition, the leather, it all screams class to me. Not to mention the great sillage and longevity, always a plus!
    Writing from the EU.
    Thanks!

  • Crystal Saffron sounds amazing! I like how in the quote in Michelyn’s introduction Aurélien Guichard mentions using the same incense oil from Encens Suave, which is my favorite of the Matiere Premiere scents I have tried so far. I also like Steven’s description of the herbal freshness of the leather. I love the whole philosophy of the brand, as described as the interview with the perfumer: “We decided our goal would be to turn a raw material into a perfume, with a unique construction: use a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient, then use only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to facet the main one.” I would love to win this bottle and see how they handle saffron! I’m in MN, USA.

  • This new fragrance sounds like a great mature scent for the fall/winter scene. It sounds like an original and unique fragrance.

  • I really enjoyed your earlier interview with Aurelien Guichard—especially his thoughts on perfuming materials. I noted this quote:

    “Together, we thought there was something absolutely beautiful about the simplicity of a raw material. When I smell an ingredient from my perfume organ, I already see beauty and, in many cases, unique textures and technical olfactive qualities. Often, as fragrances are complex and made with many ingredients, the quality of a single ingredient is not perceivable by the person who wears the fragrance.”

    I imagine Guichard is particularly good at teasing out the nuanced aspects of one as complex as natural saffron. Thank you for reminding me about that post, Michelyn.

    Steven caught my attention right away with his video; I’ve been very into spicy fragrances lately, especially as the temperatures start to dip into cold winter weather. Steven mentioned this is the most “organic, enticing” saffron he’s encountered in a fragrance, and that it’s exceptionally unique, which makes Crystal Saffron a “best in class” must-try. I’m also impressed that it has a fresh, aromatic quality, while also having excellent longevity. Thanks for the video, Steven.

    I’m in the midwest, USA.

  • ianbradleyandrews says:

    I love in this article how it highlights him using Greek saffron! I am Greek so this is exciting. Steven’s reviews are so thorough. I love how he covers every aspect from packaging to performance. I love the quote below from the last interview because I think nature plays such a big role in perfume.

    I was certainly influenced by this environment. Because I have such wonderful memories given by these unique people surrounding me in my childhood, and also because I could see both the happiness and sadness, hopes and disappointments, dedication and human friendship linked to the creative work of my father – I knew what I was stepping into when I decided to become a perfumer.

  • Claumarchini says:

    It is always interesting to read about Mr Guichard’s creations and thanks Michelyn & Steven for your reviews. I do love saffron a lot and it is really intriguing to hear about a “green, clean, clear” saffron! I had red the long and super-interesting interview Michelyn did a couple of months ago, hat really stroke me most is hearing that Mr. Guichard has revived the land of his grandparents in order to grow his own products but – most important – to not loose a great part of his personal history but also the history of Grasse and the South of France in general. Coming from Italy, I am very fond of our countries’ natural heritage, our fantastic raw materials (flowers, plants, fruits, vegetable, food in general): it is very difficult for farmers and niche producers to survive and to believe in small productions, when the big companies just want cheapness and abundance, so well done really! I know all Matiere Premiere’s fragrances are amazing and can’t wait to start discovering them all! Greetings from Milan

  • Michelyn!!! ❤️❤️❤️ Your interview with Aurelien Guichard is SO Amazing!!! ❤️❤️❤️ I was really struck by how he thinks of perfumery as a “way of life” rather than a job. That makes a lot of sense to me. When I lived in Paris, my roommates were musicians who grew up in families of musicians and it truly felt like an artisanal family practice passed down through the generations. Much like my friends, Aurelien Guichard grew up & continues to live in a society of artists & artisans. That is special. I enjoyed learning about his inspiration by Japanese architects like Tadao Ando. I think that the farming practices involved in perfumery should REALLY be protected and considered part of the artistic practice (as in wine), so this for me Really sets Matière Première apart. I have not experienced Crystal Saffron, yet, but I Really want to!! Especially after seeing Steven’s video!!! As always, a tremendously detailed breakdown & impression! Thank you Steven!!!! ❤️ thank you for this opportunity!!! USA

  • I love this composition. Musk, saffron and ambroxan, what a combination! Never smelled something like that before. I think this is a perfect candidate for a new signature fragrance, especialy that season. I love the sentence Steven said, that this fragrance is so unique, because this what I’m looking for while searching for a new addition to my collection. As for the intruduction, I love that somalian incense oil and greek saffron was used to craft this masterpiece. I am a big fan of using natural and local ingredients that are considered to be a peral of a specific region. Good job!
    comment from interview: What a passionate man!

    Live in Poland, EU

    good luck everyone!

  • As a small business owner myself, I own my bakery, i can not only relate to Aurélien Guichard , all bright future is ahead of him , I’m sure.
    I do praise his desire to showcase traditional , natural ingredients of the highest quality , this time saffron from Greece.

    “Your favorite restaurants in NYC, London and Paris?
    Aurélien Guichard:
    In NYC: Felix in Soho- fun! In Paris, I love Brasserie Lipp, a Parisian classic.”

    The quote we had to post, I really like when Michelyn is asking such culinary related questions .
    About Cristal Saffron, I always respect others opinions and taste , food , fragrances, music, you name it. Since I’ve smelled it , and tested on skin , I’ll have to confess Steven opinion about the lack of sweetness surprised me. I do agree it’s spicy, floral and smoky , but also slightly metallic and sweet in the base. The saffron is giving like leather and slight tobacco feel.
    Other than the lack of sweetness, I also don’t think Crystal Saffron is fresh , but thick musky and very loud. It’s the strongest Matiere Premiere.
    I have the pleasure of owning Encens Suave, it smells like I’m eating Tiramisù , with burning incense cons next to me. There are definitely unannounced notes in the fragrance, saffron, patchouli, or rose maybe, and there’s a crunchy feeling too.
    Appreciate Michelyn interview, Steven video review, and the giveaway campaign
    USA

  • Michelle Bower says:

    I saw this awesome perfumer chatting to another fellow… he is just amazing. The creation of a perfume is so fascinating and I wish I had that scientific brain. Wow I am so intrigued by this house!

  • Matiere Premiere I’m not familiar with, but I like sophisticated fragrances, with a lot of depth.
    The incense, and leather will easily cut through the cold , and rainy days , Ambre Safrano , fascinating fragrance I believe.
    I read again the interview with Aurélien Guichard , and my quote is :
    “Two things still strike me today as important takeaways from this period. First, the creative conviction and courage it took, for established brands and marketing directors to let a young trainee perfumer create his first perfumes alone, under no Master Perfumer’s guidance and supervision. This is rare.”
    Exceptional work ethic by the rather young perfumer . Creating almost everything , from creation of the scent, to all that comes after, even harvesting some of Matiere Premiere ingredients on his own .
    Of course having such famous perfumer like his father as a mentor, all the efforts , excitement from Cafleurebon reviewers, I’m expecting smooth and refined French brand , and fragrances with their own character.
    Thanks for the mini review , and the draw
    USA

  • Matiere Premiere Encens Suave I’ve smelled , high end gourmand with leather. What I find interesting in Crystal Saffron is the natural saffron, and different approach to leather, fresher, with ambroxan and versatile , compared to Encens Suave.
    From the previous interview , I was also impressed by how he thought Radical Rose was not good enough, and worked hard to perfect the fragrance
    “I created a first version of Radical Rose and presented it to the press just before the first COVID lockdown. Only a week later, we were all confined, and I was lucky to stay during 6 months in my atelier in Grasse. I felt the fragrance was not good enough. I called my partners and told them I had to start all over again! I worked night and day during 6 months, including during the month of May, the month of the Rose Centifolia harvest, weighing and compounding every try myself. I came up with the final version at the end of the lockdown, it was on a Friday”
    Encens Suave is my favorite Matiere Premiere fragrance
    Thank you for the opportunity
    USA

  • I enjoy wearing spicy fragrance all year round, not just in the Fall or Winter.
    Honestly I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell the difference between the all natural Greek saffron from the Kozani region Aurélien Guichard used in Crystal Saffron, and some synthetic substitute . What I personally like in the fragrance is the grow up profile , and the fact the leather is not hairy-chested, the incense and the top performance. Usually when there’s saffron in a fragrance, i smell tobacco, I hope I’ll be able to smell it in Crystal Saffron too.
    I do want my comment to count twice, so
    “Do you have hobbies or passions outside of perfumery?
    Aurélien Guichard: I play Field Hockey for Paris and the French National team. I also love kite Surfing and Surfing.
    ……
    If you weren’t a perfumer, you would be…?
    Aurélien Guichard: A professional field hockey player, or a painter!”
    One of my childhood dream was to play in NHL , and I still surf , if the weather is nice.
    Aurélien Guichard i know for Gucci Intense Oud. Unfortunately I’m not familiar with Matiere Premiere fragrances.
    Exciting giveaway, USA
    Regards

  • Michael Prince says:

    I loved Michelyn’s intro and Steven’s review of MATIERE PREMIERE Crystal Saffron. I love how Steven describes this Saffron dominant fragrance with unique touches of a lemon and pine infused incense with a fresh musk and ambroxan anchored fragrance. Michelyn and Steven both agree this is one of the best Saffron centric fragrances they have tried. I also love how the same Somalian Incense that was used in Encens Suave was used for Crystal Saffron.

    I loved learning from Michelyn’s interview how Aurélien Guichard was born and raised in Grasse in Fields of Jasmine of Rose at his grandparents and comes from a large family lineage of perfumers.

    I am from the USA.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Thanks for the great review Steven and Michelyn.

    I enjoyed reading about Aurélien Guichard in an earlier article from CFB. Michelyn’s writeup was great because it gives us an insight from the perfumer about the oils and the different aroma chemicals that have gone into this fragrance.

    I love the use of saffron and it’s nice to see a fragrance that has the saffron up to, in all it’s nuances, especially in it’s luminous and show stopping quality. I love the presentation.

    Cheers frim WI, USA

  • sephrenia300 says:

    Lovely introduction and video review! What I enjoyed about Michelyn’s introduction is learning that the perfumer intended to highlight the fresh crisp and crystalline aspect of saffron rather than the more commonly featured warm and spicy side. it sounds perfectly modern and surprising. What I enjoyed about Steven’s video review was how he describes the perfume as having a “billowy clean aura” that is so unusual for a saffron-focused fragrance as most are heavy and intense

    i also really enjoyed Michelyn’s exclusive interview with Aurélien Guichard, particularly learning that the goal of the formation of the house was to turn a very high dosage of one central, extremely qualitative and natural ingredient into a perfume, sung only a few more, equally qualitative ingredients to complement the main one. I love learning about the specific inspirations behind fragrances, and even more so about whole houses! I live in the US