Maria McElroy Sugar Flower for American Perfumer® was a numbered limited edition of 50

It’s no secret that artisanal perfumer Maria McElroy enjoys travel. She has been an avowed lover of All Things Aesthetic all her life – from fine art (Maria studied painting at the San Francisco Art Institute), fine food (she is married to a well-known Japanese chef), and global wanderlust (including such exotic locales as Morocco, Japan, and throughout Europe). Maria’s fairly recent détente spent on the Big Island- aka Kona, Hawaii – has borne fruit in the form of her latest fragrance for American Perfumer, entitled Sugar Flower. Maria McElroy Sugar Flower for American Perfumer©  has taken nearly a year to create and was released for a limited time, beginning this June 29th. Only 50 signed and numbered bottles were available.

Maria McElroy of Aroma M on the beach at Kona

One of the great joys of the South Pacific is indisputably its seductive native terroir – so fertile that both flora and fauna flourish in its sultry climate. Maria’s immediate impression upon landing was the olfactory impact of ambient perfume, the profusion of exotic blooms, indigenous plants, and other tropical flora which have been cultivated for a specific purpose – i.e., vetiver, which has been transplanted to assist in preventing soil erosion. With her customary fragrant alchemy, she has crafted a mouthwatering floral gourmand – a genre for which Maria has always exhibited a particular gift.

Maria McElroy Sugar Flower for American Perfumer® Frangipani by Maria

A bit of confusion may arise when considering the names of plants which are, in fact, related: Hawaii’s native pikake is a variant of jasmine sambac, for example – and frangipani may go by the name plumeria. Each of Maria’s chosen blooms thrive locally, be they plumeria, pikake, tuberose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, or tiare (a gloriously fragrant Tahitian gardenia). The common characteristic they share is their heady perfume: sweet, potent floral presences which make your head swim. Nature’s aromatic delirium, which speaks for itself. Even the dulcet vanilla bean was transplanted in the 19th C – where it continues to be grown on the Northshore of Oahu. Vetiver made its way to the South Pacific via India – but its cultivation has existed for only a decade: the “sunshine” genotype of vetiver is the only one which has been endorsed for use in Hawaii, as it has proven to do no harm (as in becoming a problem in the island’s landscape), and is greatly helpful in reducing soil erosion – which is a major issue there.  Maria has incorporated both of these delightful materials in her Sugar Flower, and they provide a subtle richness which is gingerly and respectfully treated so that they don’t overshadow the ebullient florals.

What is indeed surprising is Maria’s mysterious maple syrup accord. Other than immortelle absolute, I can imagine that methyl cyclopentenolone, a touch of fenugreek, and/or ethyl maltol might conjure the effect of that candied, earthy sweetness so beloved in Canada, New England, and any other number of places where bitter winters welcome its presence in both baked goods and multiple other dishes (maple-glazed meats, carrots and other root vegetables).

I would dearly love to smell whatever was in the air that the perfumer smelt as she alighted! And I’d love to hear from those of you who have had the pleasure of visiting Hawaii! Whatever might that seductive substance be? Whatever it is, it contributes a comforting sense of wellbeing and ease to a perfume which already sings an opulent melody. Aroma M Sugar Flower is a charming summer scent with excellent tenacity – but it shouldn’t be limited to a particular season. I can foresee it steaming up some chilly evenings by the fireside, and then some.

Notes: frangipani, plumeria (also known as frangipani), pikake (also known as jasmine sambac), tiare, tuberose (natural), jasmine accord (natural), ylang-ylang (natural), vetiver (natural), vanilla accord (natural), maple syrup accord

Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…

–Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Maria McElroy, we have a sample of Maria McElroy Sugar Flower for American Perfumer® one lucky reader in the USA. The draw is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what you enjoyed about Aroma M Sugar Flower based on Ida’s review. Draw closes July 4, 2024

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