Manos Gerakinis Immortelle Review+ Summer Gourmand Draw

August 9, 2019August 9, 2019

Fortune, vintage tarot card, stock photo

Helichrysum, a flower whose durable beauty gave it the moniker “everlasting” or “immortelle”, was revered in Mediterranean cultures. Recorded by Pliny the Elder in the 1^st century and alluded to by Homer, immortelle was said to be sacred to the gods and adorned temples across the classical world. Today, it grows wild in Greece, its vivid yellow blooms believed to bring luck. In perfumery, immortelle has lent its unique, burnt caramel fragrances, to classics such as Annick Goutal Sables and Rochas Femme as well as more modern perfumes such as Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau. Creative director Manos Gerakinis goes gourmand, his Immortelle a delicious, warm confection served with a dollop of childhood sweets and adult earthiness.

The Assembly of the Gods by Jacopo Zucchi

Immortelle can be tricky, since its treacly sweetness needs lift to keep it from becoming too heavy. But it can easily overwhelm lighter, more transparent scents. Manos Gerakinis Immortelle kicks off with a classic accompaniment, cinnamon – also distinctive in Sables. But where Sables plays with the astringency of black tea and black pepper for contrast, Gerakinis embraces the rich, maple syrup quality of immortelle by flanking it with nursery sweets. Brown sugar and cinnamon is noticeable right off the top; a realistic milk note travels through the middle, taking me back to Sunday breakfast at my childhood home, the smells of French toast and cold cereal permeating the kitchen.

Manos Gerakinis holding a bottle of Immortelle courtesy of Manos

As it wears, Immortelle takes on some grown-up characteristics that provide a welcome maturity and balance. A smoky, dark chocolate patchouli comes right up behind the dessert aromas, tamping down the sweetness with some loaminess. Moments later, sandalwood comes forward, and the two notes together bring a counterpoise of bitter and smooth woodiness that complements and contrasts with the more toothsome aspects.

Helichrysum, Greece, photo by Laura Morelli, 2015

If it seems that Immortelle is too weighty for summer, I’d ask you to try it. That smoky patch, clove and a touch of face powder that comes in at the end quiets the sweetness, and Manos Gerakinis has given the entire construction an unusually light touch. I wore this all day in 90+ plus heat and found it soothing. Manos Gerakinis Immortelle may have just invented the summer gourmand. And I’d call that good fortune indeed.

Manos Gerakinis Parfums Immortelle courtesy of Manos

Notes: Clove, cinnamon, immortelle, milk, brown sugar, benzoin, sandalwood, patchouli.

Disclaimer: Sample of Immortelle kindly provided by Manos Gerakinis. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

Thanks to the generosity of Manos Gerakinis Parfums, we have 10 ml travel spray of Manos Gerakinis Immortelle for two registered readers in the U.S. and Europe. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Immortelle based on Lauryn’s reviews and if you’ve had a chance to try any Manos Gerakinis perfumes, and where you live. Draw closes 8.13.2019.

Please read Sr. Editor Despina Veneti’s review of Rose Poetique here and Sr. Editor Robert Herrmann’s Pivoine here. With Immortelle, all three eau de parfums are available at Perfumology.com and Perfumology

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