Manos Gerakinis Citrine courtesy of the brand

Citrine and the Golden Mean! Rarely are two such topics intertwined. As I smelt perfumer Chris Maurice’s brilliant new limited edition parfum Manos Gerakinis Citrine – it became clear to me how many facets may be present in a fragrance, and how far-reaching their implications may be. Citrine is a radiantly solar entity which embodies a harmony in proportion and the robust, buoyant nature of wellbeing on several levels; if that were all there was, it would exceed expectation. I feel that Citrine is much more. What does the semi-precious gemstone represent – and why would it inspire a perfume? Citrine has been explored before, brilliantly – by Olivier Durbano and reviewed by EIC Michelyn Camen (read review here) in 2011. Manos Gerakinis Citrine is an entire new realm in itself, a fresh expression undertaken, and in no way resembles the previous fragrance bearing the same name.

 

 

Manos Gerakinis and Chris Maurice photos courtesy the brand

Citrine has a long and illustrious history: named after the lemon, for its yellow hues, it may be found in any number of locales, from Scotland to Spain; Madagascar to Russia; to Brazil’s rainforests; and in the U.S. it is mined in Colorado, California, and North Carolina. Since Greco-Roman times, citrine has borne the reputation of being the ‘money stone’ – as evidenced by the 1st C. BCE intaglio above (from the Getty Museum collection) of Bonus Eventus, the divine personification of success.

The Getty Museum collection carved citrine from the 1st C. via Getty

We can trace it back to 300 BCE, when Greek and Roman jewelers fashioned intaglio rings from it. In the Old Testament, high priest Aaron (the older brother of Moses) wore it upon his holy vestment breastplate adorned with 12 different jewels representing the twelve tribes of Israel (at that time the stone was known by its Greek appellation chrysólithos). Citrines adorned Queen Victoria’s costumes and one of her royal seals as well. This specific gemstone is said to benefit the second chakra which rules our vital force prana vyana: it encourages good circulation, the acceptance of change, learning to let go, and flowing with the transformation which life inevitably brings. While citrine is energizing and helps one avoid negativity, it also promotes balance – which brings us to the Golden Mean.

Leonardo da Vinci’s The Vitruvian Man (L’Uomo Vitruviano), 1490: considered the ideal representation of the Golden Mean via Wiki

Aristotle’s (384-322 BC) ‘golden mean’ extols his theory that excellence lies in the middle way between two extreme states: excess and deficiency – and this assertion has come to be considered relevant pertaining to both life and art. This wasn’t a new concept, by any means – as Hinduism had come to a similar conclusion around 2300-1500 BCE. In roughly the same time frame (spanning the mid-500s-~ 610 BCE), the Buddha, Confucius, and the Prophet Mohammed each agreed that moderation, or balance – was essential for a happy and meaningful existence – and in medieval times both Maimonides and St. Thomas Aquinas shared their sentiments. In art, it was Leonardo da Vinci’s famous depiction of the Vitruvian Man in 1490 which has come to typify the employment of divine proportion, aka the Golden Mean; a singular loveliness of symmetry.

Manos Gerakinis Citrine, I believe – achieves a degree of exquisite balance of the Golden Mean by possessing a sunny (but never frivolous), invigorating disposition which modulates both swings of the pendulum: a perfume which glows with estival warmth and gilded hues despite being an autumnal birthstone, for one – and a fragrance composed of materials which don’t necessarily summon an image of a solar character at first glance. It would be easy to imagine a citrine-evocative fragrance which includes an abundance of citruses, peaches/apricots/osmanthus/orange blossom, possibly with a variety of cheerful aldehydes; it seems less likely, color-synaesthesia-wise –that the choice of red fruits, tart black currant, plum and patchouli might assume those roles. I wouldn’t immediately presume that oud, by itself – is golden, although some do feel that way to me. Leather I can see, particularly if a saffron-inflected note is engaged. Indeed, whichever components are used to express amber commence with a certain presence which later gives way to a more woody than honeyed aroma. Citrine sparkles with an introductory tanginess of red fruit, and a black currant note which makes you salivate; the plum smells like a freshly bitten one as opposed to stewed fruit. Patchouli soon supervenes, accompanying a saffronic leather sprinkled with the animalic stirrings of castoreum and oud. Cashmeran® softens the animalics, rounding the edges towards middle ground, where it gleams like the very sun (it’s all about balance). Proportion is all, and Citrine juggles it superbly by relaying a sense of optimism and abundance while smelling vibrant – as if one had not a care in the world. We have traveled full circle and united a beautifully measured fragrance with the age-old concept of inspiring health and wealth of body and spirit.

Notes: red fruits, black currant, plum, patchouli, leather, amber, cashmere wood (Cashmeran® IFF), castoreum (synthetic), oud  

Perceived notes: Safraleine or saffron, potent woody aromachemicals.

Sample kindly provided by Indigo Perfumery – many thanks! My nose is my own…

~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor

Manos Gerakinis Citrine courtesy of Indigo Perfumery

Thanks to the generosity of Indigo Perfumery, we have a 50 ml bottle ($495) of Manos Gerakinis Citrine, which is a limited edition for one registered reader in the US ONLY You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Ida’s review of review of Citrine. Draw closes 8/4/2023

Samples are available at Indigo as well here

Manos Gerakinis Methexis was included in Steven Gavrielatos/Redolessence Top 10 of 2022 as well as Nicoleta’s

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