Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga (photo/digital effects by Despina Veneti©)
In 2018, young entrepreneur Thibaud Crivelli founded his own Perfume House aiming to offer scents that are both “surprising and authentic”. Maison Crivelli fragrances are unfailingly inspired by his own – vivid and unforgettable – multi-sensorial experiences in some of the world’s most astonishing places: sipping spicy coffee on the slopes of an erupting volcano, tasting saffron ice cream while walking through an idyllic garden, or drinking iced absinth shots under the Northern Lights… A self-described “emotional botanist”, Mr. Crivelli has always been closely connected to nature; he’s also a veritable globe-trotter, who has lived in Asia for ten years. His stay there, initially prompted by his passion for the Mandarin language, gave him a chance to further develop his knowledge of perfume ingredients, and their sources. As he told me, his knowledge is deeply empirical, not so much technical as it is sensorial, and complementary to that of the perfumers. Following his family tradition of entrentrepreneurship, establishing his own Fragrance House felt to him all but natural.
Clockwise: Maison Crivelli founder/creative director Thibaud Crivelli (photo by Camille Brasselet©, via Maison Crivelli) & Maison Crivelli fragrances (photos by Eléonore Mehl© & Julie Robert©, respectively, via Maison Crivelli)
Knowing how essential it is for any brand, let alone a new one, to be guided by coherency, Mr. Crivelli set some fundamental standards for his Fragrance House: eco-responsible luxury (reducing waste in packaging and de facto promoting sustainability), “slow” perfume (taking all the time needed to get inspired, source ingredients and create), and fragrances with elements of surprise to highlight the unique experiences they reflect. Regarding the latter, all Maison Crivelli creations feature unexpected, even memorable, olfactory contrasts; to achieve this, Thibaud Crivelli is working with some of the most talented perfumers around. About his creative collaboration with them, he told me: “I brief the perfumers with a moodboard of scents, colors, sounds, pictures or videos, in order to fully communicate my multi-sensorial, surprising experience. We then translate this into perfume, always embracing contrasts of materials and sensations. Even though it is impossible for me to formulate (for the time being, at least!), I nonetheless provide a clear debrief to perfumers when it comes to evaluating/adjusting the formulas.”
Thibaud Crivelli of Maison Crivelli (photo courtesy of Maison Crivelli), perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour (photo via The Perfume Magazine©) & images from the moodboard for Citrus Batikanga (courtesy of Maison Crivelli)
When asked what distinguishes Maison Crivelli from other Houses, the brand’s founder/creative director answered: “I came to realize that there is a big disconnection between the way brands present perfume, and what each client feels. Fragrance is about individual emotions, as each one of us is more sensitive to different facets of the same composition. I decided to propose a synesthetic approach to perfume discovery, guiding our clients to experience the scents from a personal, sensorial, meaningful perspective: taking the time to explore, to understand why they like a certain fragrance. This is the reason why we decided to share the briefs sent to the perfumers. The idea is to smell the scent while discovering its moodboard. Step by step, the words, pictures, sounds and colors will help unveil the fragrance’s facets. It makes the perfume more tangible, easier to connect with.” Maison Crivelli currently offers nine fragrances: Rose Saltifolia by Stéphanie Bakouche, Bois Datchaï by Dorothée Piot, Santal Volcanique by Richard Ibanez, Absinthe Boréale by Nathalie Feisthauer, Papyrus Moléculaire by Leslie Girard, Iris Malhikân by Marc Zini, Fleur Diamantine and Citrus Batikanga by Bertrand Duchaufour, as well as the brand new Osmanthe Kōdoshān composed by Mme Bakouche. For my introductory review of Maison Crivelli, I’ve chosen the Duchaufour-composed Citrus Batikanga, whose amazingly warm, balmy take on bergamot makes it an ideal citrus scent for cooler seasons.
Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga (photo collage/digital effects by Despina Veneti©)
Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga opens like a succulent aromatic blend of pleasantly bitterish, invigorating citruses (bergamot, pomelo, orange bigarade) liberally sprinkled with green, slightly minty cardamom, and stalks of tart-sweet rhubarb infused in the spicy juice. Structurally speaking, the citrus accord here is not actually a top note, but the fragrance’s very own heart – pulsating, vibrant, evolving. As if that wasn’t remarkable enough, chili oil (a key element of the composition) is bound to impress even further: peppery and warm, it raises the temperature and hues the fragrance orange-red. Subsequently, it transforms the bergamot (and its citrusy companions) from luminous to blazing, from refreshing to intoxicating. And the surprises don’t stop there; a distinctively nutty undercurrent emerges from the synergy of vetiver and fenugreek: the hazelnut undertones of the former meet the maple syrup facets of the latter. Last but not least, tears of sweet myrrh and shavings of serene cedarwood form a grounding woody base, while providing that meditative aura that can be felt in so many of Mr. Duchaufour’s creations.
Memories of Santorini (photo collage/digital effects by Despina Veneti©)
The beauty of good perfume is that, although it might have been created as a reflection of one person’s specific memory, it can stir an equally personal one within another. Maison Crivelli Citrus Batikanga transported me almost twenty years back, to a mild winter afternoon in Santorini: there I was, watching a mesmerizingly red-hued sunset near a crackling fire, sipping an icy tangerine-aperol vodka cocktail garnished with flamed orange peel. In times of confinement and isolation, this memory touched a deep chord. For that, I’m grateful.
Notes: Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Pomelo, Cardamom, Chili Pepper, Rhubarb, Vetiver, Cedarwood, Fenugreek, Myrrh.
Disclaimer: I’d like to thank Maison Crivelli for my tester bottle of Citrus Batikanga, and the samples of all their other fragrances. The opinions are my own.
– Despina Veneti, Senior Editor
Maison Crivelli Deluxe Sample Set (photo courtesy of Maison Crivelli©)
Thanks to the generosity of Maison Crivelli, we have a draw for a Deluxe Sample Set, containing 9 x 1.5ml samples of all the House’s fragrances, for one registered reader WORLDWIDE. You must register here or your comment will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review, if you are familiar with Maison Crivelli fragrances, (which appeal to you and why) and where you live. Draw closes 2/17/2021
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