Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato
“She walks in beauty, like the night
Of cloudless climes and starry skies;
And all that’s best of dark and bright
Meet in her aspect and her eyes.” ~ Lord Byron
Night with her train of stars, Edward Robert Hughes @wikipedia
Why Lord Byron – when artisan perfumer Shawn Maher clearly refers to the off-the-beat jazz rhythm (tempo rubato, or “robbed time”) epitomized by Billie Holiday in her scorching 1939 recording of Strange Fruit? The simple answer is this: when I first smelt my Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato sample, the phrase “all that’s best of dark and bright” leapt into my consciousness. This new perfume glowed AND glowered – an aromatic study in chiaroscuro. Such things appeal to me on a palpable level.
Photo: Charles Peterson/Hulton Archive/Getty Images Billie Holiday Singing Strange Fruit 1939
Jazz singer Billie Holiday is inextricably linked with the gardenia – the waxy bloom tucked behind her ear to camouflage a burn acquired while repeatedly straightening her hair. Serge Lutens celebrated her in Une Voix Noire in 2012, the same year that Maria Candida Gentile released her gardenia-forward Lady Day. Shawn Maher honors the rhythm, not the flower – in his latest composition. In keeping with his Missouri roots, the fleur-de-lys comes into focus; it’s the official state flower which echoes iris (in the past I’ve referred to its significance in Egypt, the mysteries swirling around it – is it a lily? lotus? iris?). Shawn is smitten with iris root (aka orris) for its suave nobility, elegance, and smooth earthiness, and this is apparent in several of his fragrances.
Shawn Maher playing in a concert The Fourfour.com, 2007 ©
Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato is orris-mad and more; it throbs, flows, sparkles and growls. Small wonder that this perfume took some measure of angst and effort before its perfumer unearthed the secrets which materialized during his creative process.
photo apped Mit Jons
Tempo Rubato possesses that luscious tangy fruity-with-floral aspect which feels like a fingerprint; it’s one of the details which set Shawn Maher’s fragrances apart from the herd (Weinstrasse and Madame Chouteau for American Perfumer come to mind). Shawn’s adoration of stone fruits is in the foreground, dripping juice which never cloys – as he employs thoughtful evocation of their various facets (creamy, sprightly, fulsome, rich) through complex accords which combine both naturals and choice aromachemicals. An apricot is not merely an apricot, it’s composed of the finest materials which summon its likeness; likewise with plum. How better to suggest a complete orange blossom experience than the inclusion of petitgrain, neroli and the absolute itself? Verdant freshness arises from judicious drops of Persian galbanum, gloriously green and sticky, tenacious – which is amplified by the presence of narcissus absolute, earthy and animalic. Costly rose otto and grandiflorum jasmine are the best of friends and they showcase other elements to best advantage, while each retains its own exquisite character.
Iris from my Spring walk digitalized-Michelyn
Depth is critical for longevity, interest and anchoring a perfume such as Tempo Rubato. Where tobacco has contributed in other perfumes, Shawn sought a unique leather accord with a twist (as he says) furnished by the intricate cassis bud absolute – green, fruity, incredibly animalic (often described as urinaceous, as in cat urine) and an aged patchouli in all its wine/chocolate/musty splendor. Labdanum, castoreum, birch tar are fleshed out with smoky Java vetiver, cypriol (nagarmotha) often used to invoke oud, and Mysantol® – a sustainable East Indian sandalwood substitute possessing a creamy tenacious Mysore feel. Musks appear in the form of Civettone® (as the name suggests) and Tonquitone®, a deer musk aromachemical by IFF. While such a base is deeply satisfying and appropriately shadowy, it never obscures Tempo Rubato’s top and heart notes, but rather infiltrates from its underbelly so that there are dancing shafts of light rippling through a stained glass window peppered with darkness. All the sweet while, orris presents herself (accompanied by carrot seed) in many guises: racine, heaven-bound, patrician. Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato is a journey worth the taking and like the unique jazz rhythm, skillfully played to keep one happily off guard.
Notes: apricot (Apritone®, gamma octalactone, natural apricot note), plum (dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate, Prunella®, Pyroprunat®), neroli, petitgrain, orange blossom absolute, rose otto absolute, narcissus absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, galbanum, orris butter, carrot seed oil, benzoin, leather accord (castoreum, birch tar, isobutyl quinoline, vanillin, labdanum, black currant bud absolute, dark-aged patchouli, vetiver Java, cypriol, Mysantol®), musk (Civettone®, Tonquitone®)
Sample provided by Shawn Maher – many thanks! It’s fabulous. My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Senior and Natural Perfumery Editor
Tempo Rubato image via Maher Olfactive
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Shawn Maher, we have a 100ml bottle of Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Draw closes 12/13/2020
Editor’s Note: Like his Nefertiti (Miles Davis) Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato was inspired by music. Maher Olfactive Tempo Rubato an extrait de parfum was released on December 8th 2020 and you can purchase it here.
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