Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya ©Maher Olfactive
Native son and artisanal perfumer Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive is his own person, and his aromatic compositions reflect an insistence upon excellence. Shawn’s fragrances are nothing if not original, outside-the-box and adventurous. When he branched out in 2020 into the Maher Olfactive brand (in addition to his existing brand Chatillon Lux), his goal was to create voluptuous perfumes without constraint, regardless of cost or materials.
Shawn Maher©
On November 19th, Maher Olfactive releases a new extrait de parfum entitled Sagan Dalya, named for the rhododendron tea popular among the Buryats, Yakuts, and Mongol peoples as a strengthening and revivifying tonic.
Fresh Rhododendron Adamsii. Sagan-Dale, Sagaan Dali, White Wing, Shandala. Medical tea growing in mountains of Siberia, Russia, Buryatia. via shutterstock
Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya was quickened by raw material rather than having been inspired by tea. Shawn uncovered layers of fascination when he broke open a bottle of Siberian rhododendron oil: the possibilities began building upon themselves like bricks and mortar. I find that Shawn appears to enjoy dichotomy in perfume – a characteristic which we seem to share. In Sagan Dalya it manifests as a uniquely fresh and warm fragrance which is tenacious, mystical and earthy. The rhododendron note was verdant and leafy with that pine-similar tone which is indefinably fruited and wine-rich; it felt intuitive to ally it with the pungent sweet herbal/ green apple aroma of tagetes (marigold) – which possesses a touch of camphor (and complements Siberian rhododendron’s terpenic quality). Familiarity with Shawn’s perfumery makes it easy to follow his train of thought further: the inclusion of honeyed immortelle, spice softened by the mellow rondeur of beeswax and its furry underbelly undertone. Does tobacco adore immortelle? Indeed, it does, and the employment of a kiss of Kephalis (Givaudan, an ambery-warm woody tobacco aromachemical further enriches the melange, paired with plummy tones. A warm, jammy labdanum cocoons the lot, tempered by a dash of cypriol (often used to emulate oud) and a delicate dose of tonquitone musk (a synthetic but potent deer musk substitute with a hint of floralcy). Cypriol (aka nagarmotha) possesses many facets: it smells of a green leather, traces of cinnamon, vetiver and patchouli – whereas musk tonquitone is a powerful approximation of natural musk, and when contributing to the texture of Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya it’s a bit of a shapeshifter.
In concert, the plethora of materials in Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya sing seamlessly – like an ensemble in which the singers stagger their breath to create a lyrical line which appears endless. It’s a marvelous form of infinity, though: chalorous and cool, comforting and contemplative. The hearth may be warm, but you can hear the wind whistle through the forest as a few memorable draughts slither through the cracks in the windowsill.
Notes: Siberian rhododendron, tagetes, immortelle, tobacco, honey, beeswax absolute, labdanum, Kephalis (Givaudan), tonquitone musk, cypriol
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
~ Ida Meister, Deputy and Natural Perfumery Editor
Editor’s Note: Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive was the recipient of the CaFleureBon Best Independent/ Perfumer House 2020
Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya
Thanks to the generosity of Shawn Maher of Maher Olfactive, we are able to offer a bottle of Maher Olfactive Sagan Dalya Extrait ($160) for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment explaining what appeals to you about Ida’s review and where you live. Do you have a favorite Maher Olfactive perfume? Draw closes 11/22/2021
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