Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame Review (Mabelle O’Rama) 2024 + A Sumac Spiced Giveaway

 

Mabelle O'Rama Phoenix Flame

Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame courtesy of the perfumer

 A self-taught perfumer of Lebanese heritage, the London based Mabelle, first started studying perfume during the inescapable COVID lockdown of 2020. She just released her third fragrance, the uniquely spiced Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame at the tail end of last year, joining Lunar Dust and Forbidden Bloom in her brand’s quickly blossoming catalogue.

Mabelle O'Rama perfumer

Mabelle courtesy of the brand.

I first learned of her through an Instagram video where she discusses sumac, a middle-Eastern spice that she sourced, tinctured and got certified for use in her own perfumery: “I was determined to feature it prominently in this fragrance”, Mabelle notes in a blog post discussing her latest work on her brand’s website. “However, capturing its essence was no easy feat. Early attempts to replicate its tarty, dusty aroma fell short – until a breakthrough came while working with a supplier in Beirut, Georges from Intuitive Alchemy. Sourcing sumac straight from local growers in Yahchouch and Ehmej, we created our own tincture and got it certified in the UK to ensure it met all compliance requirements.”

What does Sumac smell like

Sumac cluster, via Unsplash.

Practices like this by people like Mabelle, inspire and intrigue me because it shows such a tenacity and a hyper-commitment to an (olfactive) idea, so, naturally, I wanted to smell the composition that uses it; Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame. And honestly, it’s wild and rather revolutionary that the sumac should prove to be such a perfect counterpoint to the labdanum required to create such a dry and piquant style of amber. The sumac’s sharp and sour citrus aspects dominate the composition but it’s well bedded into Mabelle’s combination of frankincense, oud and resins in the base so it becomes a little hard to ascertain where the impact of each base ingredient begins. The sumac has a wholly unique aroma that adds a welcome jaggedness to the cola/cistus dimensions that become apparent later into the wear.

 phoenix flame by Mabelle O'Rama

Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame courtesy of the brand.

Mabelle also received an Honorable mention at the Art & Olfaction Awards in 2023 for Lunar Dust, which feels rather simple and stark in comparison to Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame – it’s more of a straightforward swathe of ionones, musks and woody aroma chemicals. It services the granular loneliness of its name with a batch of grey, almost milky connotations and a relatively desolate nature. A perfume with no top notes Lunar Dust wears as it sprays, as if the thick, woody aroma was always motionless, trapped in a vacuum, like a paint, in a tin, always destined to be one particular hue. Her other available perfume Forbidden Bloom (2 x Finalist at The Fragrance Foundation UK 2024 Awards)  is more a modernist take on a floral, where punnets of peaches and bushels of gardenia and frangipani clash their characteristic aromas together. There’s a particularly apricot-yoghurt nuance present, which I’ve always associated with wild honeysuckle (or the aroma chemical Apritone) which helps to draw the fruity opening down into the body of the flowers. But even here, with a recognisable support structure of cashmeran, ambrox and musk, Mabelle still finds space to add a unique hint of the unfamiliar with a coffee extract and a spicing that adds new dimension to the bouquet.

Mabelle O'Rama Lunar Dust

Mabelle with Lunar Dust via Instagram.

And whilst it might feel rather reductive and presumptuous to judge someone’s work on just three perfumes, Mabelle’s perfumes already prove varied, lively and ultimately leave you wanting to smell more. Delivering hard on each one of her three existing concepts she’s created an amber in Phoenix Flame that feels decidedly hers: deeply informed by her past, her experience and, ultimately, her love of sumac. And isn’t creating something that is so completely ours that other people can appreciate really the goal of every creative endeavour?

Phoenix Flame Notes: Sumac, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Immortelle, Frankincense, Myrrh and Oud

–Oli Marlow, Contributor

Disclaimer: samples of Mabelle O’Rama perfumes were provided by the brand.

 

Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame is a Fragrance Foundation UK Finalist 2025

Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame is a Fragrance Foundation UK Finalist 2025

Thanks to the generosity of Mabelle O’Rama we have a 50ml bottle of Phoenix Flame available in the US/EU/UK. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Oli’s review and where you live. Draw closes 4/3/2025

Mabelle was also named Perfume Person of the Year Best of Scent 2024 by Danu.

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37 comments

  • scenternet says:

    Congratulations to Mabelle for being Perfume Person of the year! What an honor! I love the story that these fragrances are telling as well as the clean presentation of the bottles! I have not smelled many fragrances that have highlighted the note of sumac, so that is absolutely intriguing. I would love to smell these fragrances and experience their storytelling for myself!

    US

  • Scentofme says:

    This sounds ambery and incensey. The sumac note is unusual in perfumery and intrigues me. Beautiful review. From EU.

  • Ramses Perez says:

    New ingredients are always hard to work with so I’m glad Mabelle found a way to make sumac work for her. Interestingly enough, I saw a video from not long ago that The Perfume Guy featured Mabelle and alluded to this new release. I’m really intrigued to check how this sumac ingredient affects the overall composition and the similarity to an amber note. Mabelle is already making her presence known 3 releases in and I cannot wait what else she has to offer. I’m located in the US.

  • mdellaroc says:

    Congratulations! Also, I love your love for sumac. I understand finding a material that really draws you in and you can’t help but embrace it. In maryland.

  • Jeremi says:

    Overall, what sparks my interest most is the combination of innovation, cultural depth, and emotional resonance in Phoenix Flame. Oli’s enthusiastic tone and detailed breakdown of the scent’s notes and evolution suggest it’s a standout creation that pushes boundaries. I live in Poland , EU.

  • ThatMulattoDude says:

    It’s really a blessing when someone with a unique background chooses to enter the world of perfumery to present a change of pace to what predominates in the industry. I got my first taste of sumac in a cabbage salad I made for my family this past year; such an interesting flavor. Seeing the notes of this offering, I’m certainly intrigued. Congratulations to Ms. O’Rama on her early success in her career and looking forward to more of what she has to offer in the future! Appreciate the generosity of the giveaway. Many blessings from Virginia, USA!

  • olgAPOISON says:

    Sumac is a great spice, I use it in homemade hummus. I am from croatia, so not a lot of people know or use sumac, but it would be cool to try this. Im from croatia, eu

  • Melissa K says:

    What an interesting sounding fragrance! I imagine this is spicy and woody and deep, a fantastic 3rd fragrance! Kentucky USA

  • sanvean79 says:

    Thanks for highlighting this creation and creator. Niche perfumery has become just a front for greedy business people so it’s refreshing that there are still artisans and independent perfumers out there who put heart into the craft.
    All of Mabelle’s perfumes sound intriguing!
    Greetings from London, UK.

  • Ana St says:

    I admire the fact that she gifted a new ingredient to the perfume world. Since I’m curious to discover and add new aromas to my encyclopedia, I can’t miss my chance of trying this sumac centered fragrance. Thank you for the giveaway.
    I’m in Spain, Eu.

  • Tiny says:

    I’ve been on the hunt for a fragrance with notes of cardamom. I never smelled a sumac forward perfume. I’m curious on how the notes interact with each other.

    Canada

  • Amaziz89 says:

    The sumac’s sharp and sour citrus aspects dominate the composition but it’s well bedded into Mabelle’s combination of frankincense, oud and resins in the base so it becomes a little hard to ascertain where the impact of each base ingredient begins. The sumac has a wholly unique aroma that adds a welcome jaggedness to the cola/cistus dimensions that become apparent later into the wear. Congratulations to Mabelle and curious about the note of Sumac and how the perfumer created her own tincture and getting it certified is no mean feat. I am curious to try the fragrances from this house and talented perfumer. Thanks a million from the UK

  • Arian Jamali says:

    Congrats to Mabelle for being named Perfume Person of the Year—what an incredible honor! I really appreciate the storytelling behind these fragrances, as well as the sleek bottle designs. Sumac isn’t a note I come across often in perfumes, which makes it all the more fascinating. I’d love to experience these scents firsthand and immerse myself in their narratives. I live in USA.

  • Ozzyaziz says:

    Practices like this by people like Mabelle, inspire and intrigue me because it shows such a tenacity and a hyper-commitment to an (olfactive) idea, so, naturally, I wanted to smell the composition that uses it; Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame. And honestly, it’s wild and rather revolutionary that the sumac should prove to be such a perfect counterpoint to the labdanum required to create such a dry and piquant style of amber. The sumac’s sharp and sour citrus aspects dominate the composition but it’s well bedded into Mabelle’s combination of frankincense, oud and resins in the base so it becomes a little hard to ascertain where the impact of each base ingredient begins. The sumac has a wholly unique aroma that adds a welcome jaggedness to the cola/cistus dimensions that become apparent later into the wear. I am really intrigued to know more about this composition this sounds like a magical fragrance especially Cinnamon, Sumac, Cardamom, Oud, myrrh and Frankenscence. Congratulations to Mabelle on her nominations and awards and I hope to try this house in the near future. Thanks a lot from UK

  • wonderscent.mari says:

    What an incredibly intriguing review! It was inspirational to read about Mabelle O’Ramas’ path and the story of these fragrances that capture her cultural heritage and her innovative experimental scents. While I am not yet familiar with these 3 fragrances, I am eager to explore them, especially Phoenix Flame. I use Sumac on lebanese recipes so I am very intrigued to smell it as a perfume note! I would be ecstatic to get my nose on this! Sounds a really magnificent harmonious composition but somewhat a more complex fragrance structure.

    I am wishing many congratulations to this young perfumer, hoping to continue her impressive formulations. I have high regards for dedicated women, who wants to succeed and compete with the world’s best.
    Thank you for sharing such a captivating reflection and for the generous giveaway!
    Many greetings,
    From EU

  • Danniel says:

    I don’t believe I know what sumac smells like and now I’m very curious after reading the lengths she went through to be able to use it. I love virtually every other note listed, especially the frankincense, oud, and other resins. This sounds quite unique! I’m in the USA.

  • EmJay87 says:

    Shout out to a fellow Londoner making moves! Well done Mabelle.

    What interests me about this perfume, and through the review, was the intention of melding a little used source material into this new piece of work, and the efforts she went to in order to get it right. I’d love to try it and see if her efforts were worth it (and from the sounds of the review, it seems like it was!)

    London, UK

  • Sonbahia says:

    Nice review. Oli.Mabelle O’Rama Phoenix Flame seems to be a great perfume that has been developed over a long period (nearly two years in the making, as Ms. O’Rama acknowledges), and this time pays off handsomely. I was intrigued by the use of sumac, which I love in cooking (in my salads and for making za’atar) and never thought of as an olfactory raw material. Sumac, with its sharp and sour floral citrus notes, blends perfectly with resins and oud. Mabelle has created a very personal spicy amber. I live in Spain, EU

  • R2D2 says:

    this review makes Phoenix Flame sound absolutely mesmerizing! I had no idea sumac could be used in perfumery, let alone play such a big role in an amber scent. The contrast between its sharp, citrusy tartness and the depth of labdanum, frankincense, and oud sounds like something I need to experience firsthand. I love seeing independent perfumers pushing boundaries like this, it makes fragrance feel so much more alive and personal. Definitely adding this one to my must-try list!

    I am from the EU

  • FragranceFrenzyS says:

    The way you describe the sumac as this jagged counterpoint to the warmth of the resins has me so intrigued. I’m always on the lookout for fragrances that challenge the typical “amber” profile, and it sounds like Mabelle has done something really special here. Also, I love that she went the extra mile to source and tincture the sumac herself—it’s that level of passion that makes indie perfumery so exciting. Can’t wait to get my nose on this!

    EU

  • Lastochka says:

    Mabelle’s dedication to getting sumac just right is so inspiring! The struggle to capture its tart, dusty character and the eventual breakthrough with the supplier in Beirut—such a cool story. It’s amazing to see a self-taught perfumer craft something so personal yet so daring. I also love that you compared the jagged sumac against the cola/cistus facet of the amber—that’s such a vivid image! Sounds like an incredibly dynamic scent.
    I am from the EU

  • AromaAdventurer says:

    I’ve been obsessed with smoky, spicy fragrances lately, and this one sounds like it hits all the right notes. The mix of sumac, cinnamon, cardamom, and immortelle sounds like an explosion of warmth and texture. And I love that you mention how the sumac blends so seamlessly into the base that it’s hard to pinpoint where it ends—those kinds of evolving, shape-shifting fragrances are my favorite. Definitely need to try this one ASAP!
    EU

  • LindenNoir says:

    I really appreciate how you highlighted Mabelle’s artistic vision across all three perfumes—it gives such great insight into her style. Phoenix Flame sounds like it has a completely unique take on amber, which is super exciting considering how oversaturated the category can be. Also, I had no idea Lunar Dust was so minimalistic in comparison! It’s fascinating how she plays with contrasts between each scent. Definitely keeping an eye on this brand!
    EU

  • Saverioud says:

    The idea of using sumac, a spice commonly associated with culinary uses, acting as a sharp, citrusy counterpoint to labdanum in an amber scent is unexpected and piques curiosity.
    Oli’s review describes a balance between wildness and structure, with sumac’s tartness cutting through the richness of resins and oud.
    I love Lebanese culture, especially their culinary tradition, and I think that fragrances like this could help people exploring the wonders of the rest of the world.
    I hope to try this. I’m from Italy.

  • Tveta says:

    Sounds really intriguing! I have no idea how sumac smells although I remember seeing it in the spice shops. Time to buy some and see for myself, or to get to try this interesting fragrance! Thanks! Europe

  • redwheelbarrow says:

    I don’t know that I have ever smelled sumac and reading about the lengths gone to in order to have the perfect tincture in this fragrance is inspiring. This is the first I’ve heard of this house but the three fragrances you describe sounds so interesting. I’d love to smell Phoenix Flame and the incorporated sumac. From the US.

  • absurdnose says:

    I loved reading of Mabelle’s dedication to using sumac in this blend. Sumac is such a wonderful flavor,I would imagine it to be incredible in combination with the other resins and spices listed. Thanks for the insightful article as always. I live in the US

  • Ben A says:

    I’m always interested in experiencing the work of celebrated new perfumers. And Phoenix Flame sounds lovely. I adore sumac as a cooking ingredient. And, in this perfume, it’s presented alongside some of my favorite notes: immortelle, frankincense, and myrrh. I’m in the US.

  • Salem says:

    I have no idea what sumac smells or tastes like and it would be fantastic and quite funny to discover that from a perfume!
    However, the description of the sour, dusty spice is very interesting and hard to imagine, but all the other notes, the rich spices, myrrh, oud and frankincense, really transport me to a dry, fragrant Bazar in the Middle East, where the sweet and spicy aromas mingle, stimulating the senses in an everlasting dance.
    Greetings from the EU.

  • wallygator88 says:

    Really cool to read about the sum tincture! I went and listened to the video and it’s one of the few materials where I have heard of tanginess being translated to a scent.

    Would love to try this.

    Cheers from WI, USA

  • Annika says:

    Kudos to Mabelle O’Rama for pursuing excellence in her perfume composition. It seems she has a clear vision for her fragrances and she finds the means to make that come to fruition including sourcing raw material and making her own tinctures. I’m familiar with sumac as a seasoning but not an olfactory element. I can see how it works well with earthy notes like Frankincense, Myrrh and oud as well as warmer spices. MD, USA

  • opalbear says:

    Congratulations Mabrouk Mabelle!! Well deserved! I am super excited to try this one with sumac. I have so many fond memories of Lebanon and picking the za’atar and sumac and preparing it for the grinder and then roasting the sim sum, getting the zeyt zeytoun… making the dough for the baker and finally eating that fresh illustrious za’atar manakeesh! Yummm and now to have that super tart, lemony, reddish rich sumac heaven in a perfume? Dancing with the warm cardamon, myrrh and labdanum?! Genius!! Genius.
    I followed you on IG. I’ve heard great things about your others. Time to get them all.
    I am located in the U.S. thank you for the generous giveaway.

  • Sam Koenig says:

    It is always inspiring when self-taught perfumers are able to weave their own heritage into their fragrances. It adds an element of personality to the composition and just makes the experience feel more real. I’ve never had the chance to try and of Mabelle’s fragrances but I appreciate her commitment to the community! I’d love to give this a try, thanks for the opportunity! Massachusetts, USA

  • Eris.can.swatch.kaos says:

    I’m intrigued by this amber fragrance containing sumac. It’s going to be something extremely unique to my nose and I’m all for that. I love how the perfumer is gaining accolades on such a short period of time, and it has me interested in discovering more. I live in Oregon.

  • sherin thomas says:

    Fantastic release. The sumac’s sharp and sour citrus aspects dominate the composition but it’s well bedded into Mabelle’s combination of frankincense, oud and resins in the base so it becomes a little hard to ascertain where the impact of each base ingredient begins. From PA,USA

  • Raoul says:

    This fragrance sounds absolutely captivating — the idea of sumac spice blended with warm and radiant notes is so intriguing! I’d love the chance to experience Phoenix Flame firsthand! I am from Romania, Europe.