Lingua Planta Understory, image via Lingua Planta
Since the dawn of time, humans have seen themselves as above other species, in more ways than just one. New research reveals that plants also communicate and exchange complex information with each other, with insects, animals, and even us, humans. This is the language of scent, this is Lingua Planta. The brand steps in, translating the hidden language of plants into perfumes, offering a new perspective on greenery with molecular-built perfumes with essential oils that come from nature. All Lingua Planta products are hand-blended in the Netherlands, crafted from the finest natural essential oils, and sourced with care for both quality and the environment.
Merle Bergers, photo via Lingua Planta
The heart (and nose) behind the brand is Merle Bergers – a conceptual designer – turned herbalist, who grew up immersed in the natural world of a small forest in the eastern part of the Netherlands, where she observed the intricate connections between plants, insects, and animals firsthand. During her studies at the Design Academy Eindhoven, she deepened her fascination with plant communication and her artistic sensibilities breathe in every detail of Lingua Planta. Influenced by the works of Peter Wohlleben and Robin Wall Kimmerer, Merle embarked on a journey to understand plants’ fragrant messages – and Lingua Planta is rooted in this scientific research, transforming the complex language of plants into an aesthetic olfactive translation.
In Merle’s words: “It all started as research on plant intelligence, as a way to form a bridge to the natural world. Plants emit volatile messages and no scent in nature is without meaning. When I realized this, I was so amazed and wanted to find a way to understand this language- and tell everybody about it. Back at the time, I wasn’t a perfumer yet but just had a great love for scent and a passion for sniffing everything olfactory that I would encounter. Lingua Planta became my graduation project at Design Academy where I graduated with honors because of this project. For my graduation, I made 3 scents; Attract, Repel, and Defend. As I really wanted to translate this research into something that can be used daily I embarked on the path of natural perfume. I read all the perfuming books by Mandy Aftel and others, listened to all the podcasts, all the YouTube videos, and everything there was to find on perfume making. I started crafting scents working with my own memories of nature, weaving in the plant messages that I learned about.”
Lingua Planta Attract, photo via the brand
The fragrance of bees and butterflies who encounter a Bulgarian rose, Lingua Planta Attract is inspired by the molecular language of flowers, and how they can lure pollinators to come closer. Rose, labdanum, and mimosa, honeyed, warm, floral, and sweet, Lingua Planta Attract is so beautiful that you can’t help but lean in for more. Bohemian and grounding, this is a must-try if you are a lover of honeyed, fresh interpretations of rose scents. Extra bonus point – my cat, who usually runs away when she hears the puff from a perfume sprayer, had absolutely no problem lying on my desk and was quite interested in occasionally sniffing my blotter.
Lingua Planta Repel, photo via the brand
Lingua Planta Repel is the fragrance of a lemon tree in a Sicilian vegetable garden in spring. Invigorating, refreshing, and citrusy, Repel is designed to uplift your senses and offer a refreshing reset. The top notes feature Sicilian bergamot, wild orange, lemon and in the heart it unfolds a purple cloud of lavender absolute and clary sage, leading to a grounding, sweet base of lush vetiver. What makes Repel unique is its use of natural materials that plants produce to repel insects, creating a natural sanctuary reminiscent of a lemon tree in a Sicilian vegetable garden. It’s an invigorating perfume with a little extra protection.
Lingua Planta Defend, photo via the brand
Fresh, soothing, and a little wild, Lingua Planta Defend unfolds on your skin like a morning walk through a verdant forest. It opens with the invigorating scent of cut grass and galbanum, transitioning into the rich aroma of forest air, sun-warmed benzoin resins, and the moist, earthy presence of oakmoss. Defend features the same phytoncides that expand the mind, replicating the regenerative power of nature. It is inspired by the defense mechanisms of trees, a beautiful olfactive metaphor on how plants communicate and protect each other through their scents.
Lingua Planta Henosis, photo via the brand
“Priests believed that the smoke of incense was the only thing that could cross the barrier between earth and heaven. Leading to the original name for perfume: per fumum, or ‘through smoke’ Henosis is a perfume based on the age-old relationship we have with scent and ritual.” – Merle
Mystical, smoky, and calming, Lingua Planta Henosis captures the essence of a smoldering forest fire, enveloped by the soothing energy of cedarwood and frankincense. The warm fumes from resinous materials and the ambrette seeds have a naturally calming effect, while vetiver and oakmoss give it a grounding, calming quality. Introspective, warm, enveloping, and meditative, a precious perfume that I will cherish and wear whenever I will feel homesick for the forests of my childhood and the rusty smell of October.
Lingua Planta Understory, image via the brand
Finally, going underground, this is the perfume I fell in love with: Lingua Planta Understory. The “Wood Wide Web” served as an inspiration for Lingua Planta Understory, capturing the essence of the underground intelligence, communication, and collaboration of the underground world – a secret realm, where roots and fungi intertwine to share nutrients, water, and even information, is a testament to the interconnectedness of life. One of the most cottage-core-forest-witch-whimsy-goth scents I have at the moment, Lingua Planta Understory is what I imagine hiding from the sun, deep underneath the undergrowth of the forest floor, would feel like. Earthy patchouli and vetiver, deep green mosses and pine, pale orange sun rays of amyris and tonka, filtered through the thick canopy, with just enough orris to make it purr on the skin. Made me think of the iconic scene from “El Laberinto del Fauno,” where Ofelia descends into the depths of an ancient tree, enveloped by the mystical, earthy ambiance, down on her way to meet the faun.
In Merle’s words: “May Understory serve as a symbol for all the unseen, forming ancient bonds, generating the soil that gives us life. This is an invitation to look under the surface of the undergrowth. Beneath the seedlings, saplings, smaller plants, and fallen leaves on the floor of a forest lies a mysterious world, carrying the wisdom of a billion years.”
Top: Violet Leaf, Bergamot, Balsam Fir; Heart Notes: Sandalwood, Lavender Absolute, Dark Patchouli; Base Notes: Orris/iris Root Butter, Oakmoss Absolute, Frankincense
Nicoleta Tomsa, Senior Editor
Note: Understory was composed in 2020. Merle has also created a jewelry brand that I have stalked mercilessly on Instagram in the last few weeks, called “What’s in a Tear”, with bespoke pieces made from tears turned into pearls, check it out here: @whatsinatear
Disclosure: The discovery kit was offered by Lingua Planta. Opinions are my own.
Lingua Planta Discovery kit via the brand
Thanks to the generosity of Merle we have a discovery set of samples of all five for one registered reader in the US or EU. You must register or your entry will not count. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what sparks your interest based on Nicoleta’s reviews and which Lingua Planta appeals to you the most. Draw closes June 18, 2024.
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