Lili Bermuda Island Rose courtesy of Lili Bermuda

“A rose by any other name would smell as sweet” (from William Shakespeare’s play Romeo and Juliet)

Lili Bermuda Perfumery photo by Hernando

In the past, one either loved the Rose (fragrance) or didn’t. No middle ground. My epiphany came about when visiting the Huntington Library’s Botanical Rose Garden (Pasadena, CA) as a teenager with my mother. The Rose Garden served as an important educational tool that helped me learn about the wide range and different scent profiles of roses. So, what did I do? I leaned into the rose by doing some homework. What I discovered enchanted me. My appreciation of the rose as a flower and a perfume blossomed.

The Huntington Library’s Botanical Rose Garden via Huntington Library

The history, symbolism, and mythological origin of the rose is fascinating. What represents love, power, royalty, beauty, sensuality, and mysticism? That would be “the queen of flowers,” the rose. The rose was first domesticated and cultivated in China as early as 3,000 BCE and was most likely used for medicinal purposes, burials, and confetti for celebrations. In Ancient Egypt, rose petals can be found in tombs and in friezes. Legend has it that Cleopatra VII used roses during her public appearances and the aroma followed her wherever she went. There’s superstition around rose too. Many believe that planting roses near someone’s grave protects their soul from evil spirits. Some believe that if you hold a rose in your hand and it loses its petals, a loved one will soon pass away. And if the scent of Rose is in the air, then it must be the season of Aphrodite, the Goddess of roses along with romance, and intimacy. In mythology, it was created from a combination of Aphrodite’s tears and the blood of her lover, Adonis. She gave the rose its name by rearranging the letters of Eros, her son, and the god of love and desire. Homer and Pliny, Ovid, and Virgil refer especially to the rose being esteemed more for its perfume than for its beauty. And contrary to popular belief, men have embraced the rose since ancient times.

“Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose”  (by Gertrude Stein from the 1913 poem “Sacred Emily”, which appeared in the 1922 book Geography and Plays)

Hamilton Princess & Beach Club by Hernando

I had the pleasure of vacationing at the historic Hamilton Princess & Beach Club in 2015. It was through the hotel concierge that I was directed to the Lili Bermuda Perfumery boutique (since shuttered) in Hamilton, the capital of Bermuda.  This past summer I returned to Bermuda and met Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone at Stewart Hall, where Lili Bermuda Perfumery is located. After some conversation, we went sniffing around the fragrance table. She was keen to present her latest release, ‘Island Rose,’ a collaboration with the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club. The two are revered Bermuda brands, the Hamilton Princess Hotel established in 1885 and Lili Bermuda in 1928. The Harkness Hamilton Princess Rose, which blooms around their harbourfront property, was the source of inspiration for creating the new fragrance. Isabelle was captivated by the  fragrance of the rose, which she describes as “powerful, quite citrusy, with a dash of raspberry fruit and also the smell of the wind entering Hamilton Harbour.” They both wanted the rose to reflect the nuances, colors, and textures of Bermuda and to be true to the Harkness Rose which adorned the gardens of the hotel. Island Rose is a fragrance that reflects the affluent and mystical persona that is Bermuda. Guests of Hamilton Princess can take in the aroma of ‘Island Rose’ throughout the property, as they first enter the welcoming lobby. ‘Island Rose’, was named the 2023 Best Hotel Scent by ELLE Magazine. The origin of the Harness Rose dates back to 1879 in England. Bermuda is an overseas territory of the United Kingdom. Now it all makes sense.

Perfumer and owner Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone and Hernando Courtright courtesy of Hernando

 Lili Bermuda Island Rose opens radiant and joyous. For me, it was love at first spritz. While seemingly subtle, it achieves complexity which comes from the Rose Otto Bulgarian note that delivers a rich complex freshness with a soft citrus zest and just a hint of pepper. Rose Otto is more potent than Rose Absolutes, so a small amount achieves the same level of aromatic intensity. Because Rose Otto is extracted through steam distillation and Rose Absolute is solvent extracted it pulls out a more concentrated and potent aroma. Rose Absolute has that robust “true rose” fragrance, while Rose Otto  is more delicate and nuanced. The mandarine brings out a fruity sweetness and a sunny citrus that sparkles. A whisper of neroli elevates the overture of the scent and the crushed leaves bring on the fresh green aroma that wraps nicely around the rose.

Hamilton Princess Harkness Rose via Lili Bermuda

The middle Pink Rose Damascena is the rose most used to achieve a feminine smell like makeup powder. Depending on the soil, it can be lemony, spicy, or fruity. The smell that the majority of people associate with roses belongs to an ancient Damask rose, which also happens to be the most fragrant among all rose species. The aroma of the Damask rose is acknowledged as the gold standard in the fragrance industry and here it shines. White peonies bring on a peppery and fresh scent that captures the essence of this beautiful flower, offering a light and genderless fragrance that is perfect for those who love a subtle yet captivating scent. Here, peony is blended with the citruses and enhances the floral aspects.

As Lili Bermuda Island Rose dried down, the May Rose Absolute, (also known as Rose de Mai Absolute or Provence Rose Absolute), brings a delicately light and precious floral note that is the closest to the popular rose scent (compared to the other two). Romantic is a word that comes to mind. A musky whiff here is imparted from the white orris. Its soft powdery aroma is subtly evocative of suede. The last flicker is the sandalwood which it brings an earthiness and sensuality that brings depth to the perfume.

Lili Bermuda Island Rose is a complex rose soliflore done right. A gorgeous fragrance with a subtle close sillage that’s moderate in both strength and longevity. Fresh and elegant, it is perfect for daytime and the evening, and those times when you wan people to lean a little closer.

Lili Bermuda Island Rose display for the launch at Stewart Hall via Lili Bermuda

Notes: Rose Otto Bulgarian, Mandarine, Crushed Leaves, Pink Rose Damascena, White Peonies, Raspberry, May Rose Absolute, White Orris, Sandalwood

Disclaimer: I received a bottle of Island Rose sent to me by Lili Bermuda. My opinions are mine and only mine.

Hernando Courtright, Brand Ambassador and Senior Contributor

All photos of Lili Bermuda by Hernando Courtright© for ÇaFleureBon unless otherwise credited.

Lili Bermuda Island Rose Eau de Parfum courtesy of the brand

Thanks to the generosity of Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone and Lili Bermuda, we have 100 ml of Island Rose Eau de Parfum for one registered reader anywhere in the world. You must be registered, or your comment will not count to be eligible, please comment on what sparked your interest in Hernando’s review of Lili Bermuda Island Rose, if you are a fan of rose perfumes and where you live. Draw closes 10/12/24

Read Hernando’s Tour of Lili Bermuda Stewart Hall with Isabelle Ramsay-Bracktstone here

Read Robert Herrmann’s (RIP) review of Mary Celestia Perfume here.

Learn more about this woman-owned brand here https://www.lilibermuda.com/

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